Recommendation for easy alpine route

[David_Scott]

Hello all, I am looking for advice RE a relatively easy route that would be in decent shape this time of year (next weekend-9/22/05).

 

I am looking at Sahale Arm, but also thinking about Eldorado, Ruth, maybe Snowking. Also mabe looking at Black Peak. Already done Silver Star.

 

I am looking for something that is off Highway 20 in the North Cascades, and am especially interested in the Cascade River/Pass area (have not been there yet).

 

Looking for something that would be very do-able for with one overnight, not too strenuous (I'm not the man In used to be!), not technical (glacier travel is fine, some 4th class rock OK).

 

What I'm really looking for is the best effort to alpine experience ratio-i.e get up high in the North Cascades, with a real nice overnight spot in an Alpine situation, a summit with some nice views.

 

Thanks!

[plexus]

Ruth is always a good time, the crevases (not there are many of them) are open currently. I've also done Black Peak (NE ridge this time of year). You could also try Mixup, although I remember reading finding the right moat crossing has been tricky this year (OTHER PLABBERS CAN YOU VERIFY).

 

I can't say for Eldorado since I've done it in spring. I would think you're talking about more icy conditions this time of year though.

 

Another overlooked but technically easy climb is doing Mt Watson and Bacon Peak. Plenty of blue and huckleberries waiting to slow you down.

[Blake]

do sahale if you can find good weather. you can camp in pelton basin or on the arm, and dot it in a mellow 2 days. the ranger up there this year is really nice.

[Blake]

P.S. if you aren't comfy soloing back down exposed 4th class you'll want a rope.

[armin]

I would do Black Peak. We did it two weeks ago. and we had the whole area for ourselves. All you need is a 30 m rope and some slings. Crampons are good for the ascent to the notch where the route starts, but you don't need them for the descent, since the snowfield melted out completely.

Edited September 19, 2005 by armin

[JoshK]

Snowking is a really beautiful peak in really beautiful surroundings. You can avoid the glacier altogether if you want. It's actually very cool. The ridge goes abruptly from alpine barren-ness to glacier and you can walk on either.

[David_Scott]

Armin, at what point is the rope required on Black Peak? Any hardware required, runners, etc? Thanks

Edited September 20, 2005 by David_Scott

[rock-ice]

I climbed the NE ridge last saturday and had a good time. The rock isn't as bad as everyone makes it out to be, and the climbing is moderate. You only need pro (slings or otherwise) from the notch on. I would recommend crampons as the glacier was bullet-hard. Have fun, maybe you'll get the views we missed for the most part.

 

Saturday

[armin]

Hey David,

 

we carried one half rope, and doubled it (=30 m). We simulclimbed most of the route, but for some sections we set up a belay. There are two short exposed sections on the ridge, and then the "crux" (alpinedave gives it a 5.5., was icy for us, but well protectable with runners), which leads to the false summit. We brought a set of nuts, but didn't use it. There are many little horns for runners. Hope that helps. And yes, do bring crampons for the approach to the notch.

[mattp]

Plexus-

 

I've heard of several people trying to get to Bacon Peak from Mount Watson and proclaiming it "impossible." Based on their reports, I'm guessing you have to drop down into Noisy Creek somwewhere, rather than follow the ridge crest. Have you done this trip?

[Ffej]

Not the same area, but if you want a fun alpine route the West Ridge of the North T win is very fun. You can do it in a day or take a leasurely two day trip.

[Dr_Crash]

Ingalls Peak. Easy, and spectacular scenery. It's a one-day thing but camping close to the lake and relaxing is not one of the worst things you could do.

 

drC

[scot'teryx]

West Ridge of North Twin rocks

[David_Scott]

Any experience with the South Ridge of Black Peak?

[jshamster]

South Ridge of Black is the descent route for NE ridge.

IMO it would not be that fun of an ascent, especially being completely melted out.

NE Ridge is very easy, with only short steps of low 5th. Highly recommended.

 

Have fun.