alexbaker Posted September 15, 2005 Share Posted September 15, 2005 Any of you wankers climbed that? Im looking for some beta into any and all of the "established" aid routes up the main face. I assume all possibilities have been climbed on this wall. Is this true? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted September 15, 2005 Share Posted September 15, 2005 (edited) Pete Keane, co-owner of Timberline Mountain Guides put out a small addendum to the Smith Rock Guide back in the '90's that includes many aid routes in the area, and I believe he has done most of the routes on the wall.  info@timberlinemtguides.com  If he doesn't get back to you, PM me and I will give you his personal e-mail contact.  Erik Wolfe Edited September 15, 2005 by MisterE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted September 15, 2005 Share Posted September 15, 2005 Yum. Â Whole lot of choss up there... 5 easy pieces is a sweet route (not a lot of choss either). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexbaker Posted September 15, 2005 Author Share Posted September 15, 2005 thanks a bunch, ill get ahold of him asap. anyone else have info on this wall? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexbaker Posted September 15, 2005 Author Share Posted September 15, 2005 5 easy peices eh? i dont have access to a guidebook here, would you care to enlighten me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted September 15, 2005 Share Posted September 15, 2005 Pete Keane put out a small addendum  Prepare to be terrified! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexbaker Posted September 15, 2005 Author Share Posted September 15, 2005 Hmmm. It seems like everytime i ask someone about this wall i get a funny look and little grin, followed by mumbling. Interesting... Still no beta however. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted September 15, 2005 Share Posted September 15, 2005 Â It's all laid out in the NEW SMITH ROCK GUIDEBOOK which will be on shelves soon. Â Hey E, what's that route on PLW that we got rained off of? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted September 15, 2005 Share Posted September 15, 2005 So this is probably the appropriate place to ask the question. Â If you take a hammer and chisel and bash edges into patina, that's chipping. Â But what if you trundle a huge block onto a blank slab, and the falling block makes a trail of edges as it tumbles down the slab. Are THOSE edges chipped holds? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted September 16, 2005 Share Posted September 16, 2005 Nope, those edges would be a byproduct of entropy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted September 16, 2005 Share Posted September 16, 2005 There you go again, messing everything up with your "entropy" ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted September 16, 2005 Share Posted September 16, 2005 Hmmm. It seems like everytime i ask someone about this wall i get a funny look and little grin, followed by mumbling. Interesting... Still no beta however. Â If you expect me to sit here and type 18 pages of cliff notes for every single picnic lunch wall route you can off. No offense but I (and I would expect most people on this page) have better things to do with their time... like oh... say go climbing! If you have questions about specific routes say so and perhaps we can help you. Â As far as 5 easy pieces it is on the rightt side of the face (climbers)... five pitches of 12/13- (unless some hold broke) sport. Sweet route if you can send. Â Bubba's in Bondage is the best aid route IMO. Opinions vary greatly. Bring a good selection of hooks. Â The 4 pitch route that starts on Teddy Bear's picnic (I forget the name) is fine adventure climbing... the chimney, though it protects well, is disgusting. Not solid like Watts suggests. Â Are you looking for beta on free routes or aid routes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted September 16, 2005 Share Posted September 16, 2005 Free Lunch. You can climb the slab to the left of the chimney easily. Â It's been described as A fine climb for anyone not offended by loose rock. Â The stronger climber should second on the traverse pitches, BTW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted September 16, 2005 Share Posted September 16, 2005 The stronger climber should second on the traverse pitches, BTW Â Word up! Â FYI Second pitch anchor is missing a hanger also. You can sling it with a nut but... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gyselinck Posted September 16, 2005 Share Posted September 16, 2005 As far as 5 easy pieces it is on the rightt side of the face (climbers)... five pitches of 12/13- (unless some hold broke) sport. Sweet route if you can send. Â In that picture it looks like free climbing. Are you saying that you climbed 5 pitchs of 5.12 and 5.13? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexbaker Posted September 16, 2005 Author Share Posted September 16, 2005 Awesome!! I was looking for beta on aid routes for sure. That 18 page write up might be overkill, however. NOLSE have you climbed these aid routes? If so i might have to keep peskering you for information. I would go find out myself, but i am quite a drive from smith, and dont expect to be there for a week or two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted September 16, 2005 Share Posted September 16, 2005 As far as 5 easy pieces it is on the rightt side of the face (climbers)... five pitches of 12/13- (unless some hold broke) sport. Sweet route if you can send. Â In that picture it looks like free climbing. Are you saying that you climbed 5 pitchs of 5.12 and 5.13? Â That picture is on free lunch d00d! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted September 16, 2005 Share Posted September 16, 2005 PM me with specific questions... I'll help you as best I can. I haven't done them all but I have done a few of them. Retired has also done Bubba's recently (this summer I believe)... his beta might be a little more up to date (i.e. people add bolts to this thing all the time... it is maybe A3 currently). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.