skeletor Posted August 19, 2005 Share Posted August 19, 2005 a buddy of mine is flying in next weekend and really wants to do Hood. Anybody have any idea what the Hogsback route is like right now? I'm guessing it's looking pretty ugly. Any suggestions on routes that might be in play this week? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted August 19, 2005 Share Posted August 19, 2005 I climbed it 12 days ago. The route is considerably more difficult right now than it normally is. I would not recommend it if you want a mellow snow slog. Some ice climbing experience is probably a good prerequisite right now. Lots of scree walkin' to get to the snow. Route is fine up to the bergschrund. After that and through the pearly gates it's 60 degree ice with spots of water ice! (I used two screws) and delicate mixed climbing on blocks wedged in sand. We descended the west crater variation which would be a better ascent route right now. 50 degree ice. Bring lots of water. The sun is brutal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skykilo Posted August 19, 2005 Share Posted August 19, 2005 Hey Fox did it look like this? That's a picture of the chute above the 'schrund from Oct. 02. Fun fun fun, but stupid to do it despite the rockfall... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted August 19, 2005 Share Posted August 19, 2005 Not quite as much water ice when I did it as shown in your picture unfortunately. THAT LOOKS COOL! S.side of Hood on morning of 8/7/05 Picture of the descent gully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Crash Posted September 7, 2005 Share Posted September 7, 2005 What is the shape of the route now? I'd like to solo it maybe this Friday night / Sat morning. It'd be my first solo, so much snow = goodness. If not soloing, I'll try to get someone willing to do the roundtrip from Seattle to Hood in 24 hours like that (being on Rainier on Sun). drC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ireneo_Funes Posted September 7, 2005 Share Posted September 7, 2005 sounds like someone's going to uncage some soul this weekend! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted September 7, 2005 Share Posted September 7, 2005 Photos: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/496496/an/0/page/0#496496 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Crash Posted September 7, 2005 Share Posted September 7, 2005 Ouch! Where is da snow?! Any idea what the top of the climb (from the schrund up) looks like? Crossable by a solo gumby, or should I just add a 5th consecutive night of partying and drinkig to my week? drC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted September 7, 2005 Share Posted September 7, 2005 WOOHOOOO!!! UNCAGE THE SCREE!!!! EXTREME! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted September 7, 2005 Share Posted September 7, 2005 bring a second tool for good ice/dirt sticks! iain and i downclimbed the pearly gates in totally snowless conditions liek that a couple of octobers ago - scary! -actually it was well below freezing then and that's the only conditions i could imagine entering that taint-zone in. it just seems like stupidity sans glory to do it now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Crash Posted September 9, 2005 Share Posted September 9, 2005 Yes, this doesn't look good. Time for plan B, and a 5th night of partying then drC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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