dylan_taylor Posted August 17, 2005 Posted August 17, 2005 When flying out of the Waddington Range towards White Saddle, one can look out of the left side of the chopper off to the distance in the north west (north of the waddington range) and see a nice rock peak with a formidable east buttress. I am searching for information and history about this peak. Quote
Dru Posted August 17, 2005 Posted August 17, 2005 The buttress goes at IV 5.8, I believe it was cc.com poster PMS who put it up. See CAJ 1986 or maybe 1988? Quote
Don_Serl Posted August 17, 2005 Posted August 17, 2005 CAJ'85 p 26. incl photo with route-line. FA Bill Pilling and Greg Collum Aug'84. IV 5.8. Â the steep right-hand (N) buttress has had a cpl attempts, but it seems it gets very hard abt 3 pitches up. Simon Richardson and Mark Robson were just in there (came out 3 days ago); Foweraker and co poked around maybe a decade ago... Â cheers, don Quote
Stemalot Posted August 20, 2005 Posted August 20, 2005 Simon and Mark did a route on Zeus and then tried a second rout then said it was "too hard" according to Mike King so they flew out. didn't go to Queen B afterwards either. I guess we wait for trip report. Quote
Dru Posted August 20, 2005 Posted August 20, 2005 Ya, Queen Bess sucks. Why would anyone go there? Unless they had a full pig to eat, that is. Quote
jordop Posted August 20, 2005 Posted August 20, 2005 North Face Zeus was 24 pitches 5.9 TD according to Audrey's notebook. Â Ya, Queen Bess sucks. Why would anyone go there? Unless they had a full pig to eat, that is. Â SWBC guidebook author currently encamped for east face of QB. Guess word got out about the disappearing serac Quote
bwrts Posted August 21, 2005 Posted August 21, 2005 also via notebook the 2nd harder root was on the thunderbolt (?) tower... that zeus mountain sure looks Godly nice, course a lot of things do from a seat in mike's longranger. Quote
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