Alex Posted March 13, 2002 Share Posted March 13, 2002 partner and I went in in 1999 to climb N Butress of Fury, among other things. Logistics were: hump huge ungainly pack with full rack and rock shoes in many miles. Get this close wimp out, turn around, go home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted March 13, 2002 Author Share Posted March 13, 2002 Well at least you got close enough to see it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted March 14, 2002 Author Share Posted March 14, 2002 I'm just day-dreaming at work. Anyone out there ever climbed/attempted to climb one of those killer looking routes on the north side of Fury. Fill me in, fill us in. Give us a trip report. How was it. Any recommendations on logistics? Peace. For kicks: My one attempt at getting to Luna Lake ended with my partner spilling a pot of rolling-boiling water in his crotch. His long underwear did a great job of retaining the heat, and while I didn't inspect it myself he evidently had a pretty nasty burn where the sun don't shine. We, particularly he, spent the next day hobbling 12 miles out in the pooring rain. Suck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelly Posted March 14, 2002 Share Posted March 14, 2002 Climbed the N. Buttress in September of 95' Access was via Access Creek. Carried an average alpine rack, a few pins, screws, and 2 pickets. Route finding is fairly straight forward with only a couple of mistakes made on our part. I recall the crux of the route being the snow gulley that provides access to the buttress was melted out in September. Rock is of varying quality. The final snow arete is worth all the work, while the descent was pretty rough (tired, dark, route finding decsions). A very worthy endeaver and a route that you will not forget! Moving fast is essential - so trim down that enormous pack and be ready to go when the weather forecast is SOLID! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max Posted March 15, 2002 Share Posted March 15, 2002 Alex: what month is this picture from? HIgh/low snow year? thanksdave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted March 15, 2002 Share Posted March 15, 2002 July 1999, 150% snowpack year Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geordie Posted March 15, 2002 Share Posted March 15, 2002 DB- We went in from Access creek last summer and it was pretty cruiser getting to Luna Lake. I have some pics I'll try and send you when I get back from CO. gr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted March 22, 2002 Share Posted March 22, 2002 Did it in 94. 4 1/2 days .2 days in ,went high route,left of access ck .no bushwack but lots of elev gain and loss. 1 long ass day up and back to Luna col. Wathch how you start rt. we went up the right side of ridge to start though book says left,looked burly. Both have rockfall. Took the cramps off, on 7 times. Bring 1 wide piece 11 hex. Mind your p+qs on descent.Back at the boat by 9;00am day 5. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
todd Posted March 22, 2002 Share Posted March 22, 2002 nelly (or anyone else who might have climbed the n. buttress), how long does the whole thing take, hike in, climb, hike out? thanks, todd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_Parker Posted April 2, 2002 Share Posted April 2, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Alex: partner and I went in in 1999 to climb N Butress of Fury, among other things. Logistics were: hump huge ungainly pack with full rack and rock shoes in many miles. Get this closewimp out, turn around, go home. Looks like that photo was taken from the flanks of mt. challenger. Hope you at least got up challenger with all that effort. Why the rock shoes? [ 04-01-2002: Message edited by: David Parker ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pusher11482 Posted April 2, 2002 Share Posted April 2, 2002 are the access creek directions in beckey's book? does anyone have all the directions/route beta? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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