Beacon Rock Notice

[JosephH]

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Beacon Rock Update - 9/25/05...

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Anchor Replacement Project

 

The Best Laid Plans...: Well, the plan to work East from "Flying Dutchman" towards "Blownout" has been put on hold after a survey the lower Grassy Ledges comprising the tops of "Blownout" and its neighbors and another survey of the tiers from "Little Wing" to "Blownout". We do have to consider the danger of potential rockfall during our work and, simply put, a sizeable loose rock load has built up across the lower and upper Grassy Ledges making work there problematic. Some of this work will have to be deferred to either next years pre-opening work session or a mid-week closure later this fall. So we've switched to the backup plan and have started working West from "Flying Dutchman".

 

"Ground Zero" and Big Wall Practice: Anchor replacements West of "Flying Dutchman" have commenced with "Ground Zero" which is in the middle of the South face columns. It is on the left side of the leftmost of a several broken column roofs when looking up from the trail. This is another spectacular climb and good practice zone for anyone considering going down to the Valley to do an El Cap route. The mid-route anchor is a classic valley anchor with four bolts in a row side-by-side. This is a perfect setting for a portaledge as the columns flatten out at this spot so the anchor is against a "wall" as opposed to in a notch between two columns. Setting up camp on a wall can be a challenge so use this route for practicing your bivy skills.

 

"Flying Dutchman" Rap: Once again we wanted to suggest you use this rap off the Grassy Ledges if you are a competent and experienced rappeller comfortable with intermediate raps that have no standing ledges. You can get down this rap with pretty much any cord from a single 50 meter on up and you can get down in one shot with two 60 meter ropes. Using this rap will minimize any log jams on the traditional SE Corner descent rap and so also minimize potential rock fall that rap can sometimes generate when folks aren't careful.

 

Safety Issues

 

Grassy Ledges Safety Issues: As we've been reminding you there is lots of loose rock up on Grassy Ledges and yesterday we had a pretty serious incident of a football-sized rock getting launched from the ledges from above tunnel #1. We don't have the specific details, if you do send me a PM or email the Beacon.Rock@AvaSys.com account. Again, this is deadly serious business and you MUST manage every footfall and rope movement when up on Grassy Ledges. If you are going to traverse the ledges with a rope from the point you hit them from the "SE Corner" then watch your rope like a hawk and clip a tree, bush, or put in a piece to keep the rope off the ground to the degree possible. If traversing on past the standard descent rap on your way up to the "Land of the Little People" Ledge or the "Flying Dutchman" rap then by all means clip that rap anchor on your way by it. Do whatever you have to do to keep your rope off the ground where it can launch rocks and be very, very careful how and where you step traversing the ledges. Another incident of this nature will likely trigger a temporary closure so that Grassy Ledges can be cleaned before climbing can resume.

 

General Issues

 

Dogs: Many folks we like and regard as good climbers and great company have dogs and bring them with them to Beacon. Part of the point of the re-founding of the BRCA is to restore relationships with the various agencies of record involved with managing Beacon and we are heavily focused on clear communication and complying with both State and Park rules and operating transparently within the bounds of the Climbing Management Plan. Part of those rules pertain to dogs and clearly state that dogs must be leashed and further must be under the physical control of their owner at all times. Every climber we've seen bring a dog so far has clearly decided these rules don't apply to them or their dog and that "their dog" would never cause any problems. This unfortunately is beginning to become an issue that is attracting more attention. Every dog owner no matter who they are in a climbing context needs to understand these rules do apply to them and their dogs. Also, be prepared to pack out your animal's waste as we've now had three complaints from climbers who've stepped in you know what. We understand it's a complete drag, but please comply with these rules if you are going to bring your dog out.

 

Joseph Healy

Beacon Rock Climber's Association

[layton]

that was me making all that barking and going through peoples packs, not the dogs.

[ivan]

my fav dog of the day was the morbidly obese pekenese i saw on the trail down - certainly it must have had a heartatttack at the summit and got left up there.

[layton]

I'd like to voice my complaint right now about the tourists.

Please do not encourage tourists or allow them the priviledge of speaking with you. it's a goddamn Q&A session on the hike down. plus, most of them are ugly and worthless. I really think we should try and outlaw the tour-ons from coming to beacon rock. or chain them up in the parking lot, they'd be happier there anyway.

 

I can't believe how these little "committees" form for places like beacon to form bonds with the Tools and Stiffs and focus on the ethics of bolting and dogs, etc...when these are the people who built the monstrosity of that trail to the summit. I could gridbolt and trundle the shit out of the E face slugs be damned and it wouldn't be anywhere as obtrusive as the "retarded sidewalk" trail up from the parking lot. What we should do is chop the trail at a steep cliff section so it just ends in a big drop-off, and put up a big yellow sign that says, "keep walking"

 

 

just my $0.02

Edited September 26, 2005 by michael_layton

[ivan]

the trail predates the park actually

 

climbeda roudn the gate one winter when the trial was closed to find that a huge section of the wood planking had been smushed by rockfall - that's the kinda shit i wanna see on packed sundays!

 

i only talk to the hot tourists...i wait to pull over the railing till i see them getting near and can accurately assess cup size. i am an attractice man and i don't have time to dick aroudn w/ the upper end of the alphabet.

 

being a public school teacher, i'm pretty desensitized to stupidity, but i was amazed today at the number of folks who think rappelling is the act of ascending the rock - and we thought i did it all in my $3 walmart flip-flops that have decayed to the point of immateriality...

 

i dig beacon big-time - my own little slice of the twilight zone on the fleeting edge of skamania - today's highlight: the unknown entity groaning in mortal agony in the shitter beside me while getting the morning constitutional out of the way 'fore hitting up young warriors. bran muffins for the rest of the week!

[layton]

yeah i noticed the date on the sign...looks like somebody was trying to avoid getting killed in the trenches. commie.

[JosephH]

I can't believe how these little "committees" form for places like beacon to form bonds with the Tools and Stiffs and focus on the ethics of bolting and dogs, etc...

 

That's a lot of barking for .02 cents - we're always glad to see folks personally stepping up to the plate like this to contribute something productive towards keeping the place open...

 

P.S. Come to think of it, " I am not a stiff tool " would undoubtably make a great addition to your line of catchy alpine apparel.

[billcoe]

I can't believe how these little "committees" form for places like beacon to form bonds with the Tools and Stiffs and focus on the ethics of bolting and dogs, etc...

 

 

 

P.S. Come to think of it, " I am not a stiff tool " would undoubtably make a great addition to your line of catchy alpine apparel.

 

OMFG! Now thats funny! You gonna buy those off of Mike and gift them to John and the rest of the rangers as a token of appreciation?

[Ffej]

In regards to hauling soil up to the big tree ledge. Your asking for a big muddy mess. I was up there for the first time last week and looked the situation over. Hauling soil may seem like a good idea but it will do the tree no good whatsoever. It will only result in a lot of work for nothing. There's nothing to retain the soil on the ledge. Big trees on a cliff don't live forever because of location and no matter how much we wish it would be there forever, It won't. Some day that tree is going to come down. The day I was on the ledge was fairly calm and I could see the tree roots seperating in the light breeze.Hopefully no one will be clipped into it when it does come down on it's own. I'm no Arborist but I am a Hort. Professional and have a good understanding of trees. Get a arborist/Sawyer up there to give you a pro. opinion.

I really enjoyed Beacon and plan on exploring more around there. Just wanted to give you a heads up to avoid any problems.

[JosephH]

Ffej,

 

Thanks for the input on the tree. I'm also an ex-hort. and arborist and I agree there's no stopping natural processes. We're more interested in remediating some of the human impact on the tree such as the substantial bark grooving from folks rappelling directly off the tree and damage to roots, etc. from traffic. We're not thinking of a classic loam soil mix at all, but more of a well-drained, native gravelly mix as much for weight and mechanical protection than anything else. Most of the retention would be between the roots as opposed to trying to load the whole ledge up. Thanks again for your thoughts on it all and we'll give you a shout when we're closer to the work and maybe you and I could go up and look at the situtation together.

[layton]

I need the proper committees to get the t-shirt process started, then send the product off to focus groups before market analysis

[JosephH]

Well, if that were the only alternative to no t-shirts then you might have to just dig into it and see what you could do to streamline the whole process - or at least that's what we're trying to do.

 

Come out and go climbing with me sometime.

[billcoe]

I was asked what gear we are using for the anchor replacement project. Here you go - it packs up at 104 pounds with water and a small rack to get up to Grassy Ledges:

 

 

My gear:

 

My gear!

 

 

I've found my gear!

 

Except thats not my haul bag.

[billcoe]

Or my Jumars, mine are yellow.

[JosephH]

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Beacon Rock Update - 9/26/05...

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Anchor Replacement Project

 

We clearly need to do a better job of thanking Bill Coe for his prodigious generosity in support of the project before he takes all his toys back...

[billcoe]

Hey I was just kidding...... shit - you're doing all the work: if you were making minimum wage replacing all those anchors and putting in strong rap rings, well, you'd pretty much be able to retire right now with all that money.

 

You have all of our thanks, really.

 

Except maybe for Mike. And when he gets older he'll see it a bit differently I suspect.

 

regards:

 

Bill

[JosephH]

Me too, Bill - hope you heal up soon...

[Ffej]

Get in touch. I'd love to help in any way needed. I also had some questions about route development and protocal. I spied a line not in any guide books I've seen as well as bolting on keeping it natural.

[JosephH]

Ffej, sent you a PM...

 

The protocol at the moment is each piece of fixed pro needs to be pre-approved by the BRSP. We are working with them in the context of the Climbing Management Plan (CMP) to streamline that process so approval is done on a per route basis intead of per piece basis. Anyone feels fixed pro is needed on on a new or existing route should PM me, email Beacon.Rock@AvaSys.com, or contact Ranger John Ernster directly before doing so. In either case the baseline protocol and tradition at Beacon is try it with gear first, use pins if necessary, use [camoe'd] bolts only as an last resort and then only where absolutely necessary(existing protection bolts are being slowly camoe'd as part of the Anchor Replacement Project (ARP)). Again, we will be working with the BRSP staff relative to streamlining the new route process in the course of their revising and updating the CMP, but that work will be taking place this winter after the closure.

 

[Note: Pincraft is fast becoming a lost art, but pins are the traditional form of fixed pro at Beacon and work fabulously in the rock at Beacon both in regards to placement and the fact they do not loosen with time or weathering there. By the time the ARP wraps up, if you see a pin we can assure you you can clip it with the same confidence you clip a bolt. And if you think a route needs a new or replacement pin at Beacon then contact us at the BRCA and our technical committee will take up the matter and if the decision is made to go ahead we'll work with BRSP to get their buy-in and then happily do the deed or supply them along the gear and a quick course in nailing. Be aware we know some pins are bad but are leaving them (along with certain anchor components, fixed wires, bashies, etc.) as historical artifacts; a useless angle on the SE Corner ramps is one such pin]

[Stewart]

I am new to this site and new to climbing. Looks like you guys have been doing alot of work out there. I have little experience with replacing anchors, but thought I might contribute what info I do have. I believe Blownout's anchor was replaced just last year and I saw someone replace the first anchor on Steppenwolf just this July. Maybe it was you, if it wasn't then this info will save you an extra trip.

 

Things that you may want to consider regarding the tree on the SE Corner. Through my years of working with tree's I have noticed that when roots become exposed two things can happen; Death, or the roots begin to harden off and become like the trunk of the tree. If this happens the tree will continue on with its life. Another thing I have noticed is that when trunks of tree's become covered or buried with soil, dirt, etc. the potential for moisture to rot out the bark and in effect kill the tree is increased. I am not saying that this will happen, but these are some things to consider before spending many hours of work to haul soil up to the ledge. Also, I am never interested in rapping off of tree's. Unless its old growth, it just scares the hell out of me. But if I see slings and rap rings on a tree I do tend to trust the tree just a bit more, but usually look to back it up if I can. If you put a rappeling anchor on a tree that traditionally did not have one, are you encouraging people to do so?

 

In regards to the "arrows" on the southeast corner, that sucks! When I came across those I was very upset. I have seen pictures from Europe where they actually write, with a sharpie, info or some other crap. They also bolt cracks, I've heard. Hope that scratching arrows and writing with sharpies dosn't become a problem.

 

Since I cannot help out with Labor, hope I can help out with my limited knoledge. Peace, Stewart (aka. snoop)

[iain]

Be aware we know some pins are bad but are leaving them (along with certain anchor components, fixed wires, bashies, etc.) as historical artifacts; a useless angle on the SE Corner ramps is one such pin]

 

But you gotta clip them just to feel the energy of those who came before...

[JosephH]

I am new to this site and new to climbing. Looks like you guys have been doing alot of work out there. I have little experience with replacing anchors, but thought I might contribute what info I do have. I believe Blownout's anchor was replaced just last year and I saw someone replace the first anchor on Steppenwolf just this July. Maybe it was you, if it wasn't then this info will save you an extra trip.

 

Matt Kaylor replaced the anchor on "Blownout" two years ago. The lower Steppenwolf anchor was just replaced by Arndt (sp) who is due thanks for the work on it.

 

Things that you may want to consider regarding the tree on the SE Corner. Through my years of working with tree's I have noticed that when roots become exposed two things can happen; Death, or the roots begin to harden off and become like the trunk of the tree. If this happens the tree will continue on with its life. Another thing I have noticed is that when trunks of tree's become covered or buried with soil, dirt, etc. the potential for moisture to rot out the bark and in effect kill the tree is increased. I am not saying that this will happen, but these are some things to consider before spending many hours of work to haul soil up to the ledge.

 

Yes, again we are considering more of a fast-draining aggregate than a soil and hope to provide some mechanical protection from foot traffic in the process - for everyone reading this, please try to avoid stepping on the tree's roots if at all possible, thanks.

 

Also, I am never interested in rapping off of tree's. Unless its old growth, it just scares the hell out of me. But if I see slings and rap rings on a tree I do tend to trust the tree just a bit more, but usually look to back it up if I can. If you put a rappeling anchor on a tree that traditionally did not have one, are you encouraging people to do so?

 

This has been the "root" of most of our discussions on the topic. The bottom line though, is that more than a dozen parties were observed rapping straight off the tree last season. We have no idea what would possess anyone to do this rap and, as we've stated repeatedly, it is one of the lousiest raps imaginable; but people continue to do it regardless of the presence of the rap rings. So the question at hand is how to protect the tree. The options are either a) do nothing and watch the bark continue to be further grooved, b) install anchors in rock up there, c) install the webbing and rings. After much discussion option "c" was chosen because doing nothing wasn't an option and there is a lot of opposition to installing anchors on the ledge. The compromise of webbing / rings is just that, but we will be installing a tag on the rings asking folks not to do the rap. The issue is far from settled and brass signage directly on the tree is also now being talked about.

 

In regards to the "arrows" on the southeast corner, that sucks! When I came across those I was very upset. I have seen pictures from Europe where they actually write, with a sharpie, info or some other crap. They also bolt cracks, I've heard. Hope that scratching arrows and writing with sharpies dosn't become a problem.

 

Yep, sucks beyond all imagination and the incredible lack thereof.

 

Since I cannot help out with Labor, hope I can help out with my limited knoledge. Peace, Stewart (aka. snoop)

 

No problem, and we very much appreciate your comments...

[JosephH]

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Beacon Rock Update - 9/30/05...

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Anchor Replacement Project

 

Next Up...: Next up now that "Ground Zero" taken care is the "American Death Triangle" on "Iron Maiden" which we'll be able to reach with a double rope rap from "Ground Zero". After that our attention will jog briefly to the "Pipeline" anchor before returning to come up with a [safe] work strategy for the anchors between "Little Wing" and "Blownout". Again, there are safety issues working on some of the lower Grassy Ledges given a decades' accumulation of rock. After that we will be taking a hard look at the overall steep ramp that runs across the base of the South face columns. This ramp/face has become overgrown and is littered with old pins and a few new ones. We will be doing a survey of this face/ramp and developing work plans for it, but those will likely be a project for next year.

 

"Ground Zero" and Rapping: Anchor replaements on Ground Zero is now essentially complete with the exception of one old bolt/hanger that still needs to be removed. But, unlike "Flying Dutchman" which you can get down with anything from a single 50m, "Ground Zero" is a different beast. You can do it with a single 70m in two raps, but only by tying a knot in the end and relying on rope stretch to get you to the mid-point anchor. To be really safe you have to do three raps with a single 70m. Other than that you'll need two ropes. Once again, "Flying Dutchman" is definitely the way to go...

 

"Takes Fists" Top Anchor: The top anchor on "Takes Fists" has been moved out onto the face to a much safer location. Jim Opdyke has asked that the old anchor back on the column top not be removed for history's sake and so it stayed. This anchor was originally placed in a location that was great for sitting while drilling, but definitely wasn't in a good place at all relative to rapping (pulling) or belaying. Again, for all these routes it makes a lot more sense to come back down and do the "Flying Dutchman" rap. As a reminder of that this is a bare anchor with no webbing or rings.

 

[Note of thanks to Ivan for helping out with work on the above two routes...]

 

Unknown Route Info Needed: There is a route between "Ground Zero" and "Takes Fists" that goes up to the broken off column roof just right and a little below the one on "Ground Zero" to two existing Metolius Rap anchors - one grey, one beige. Jim Opdycke said this route was put up by someone younger a couple of years ago; if you have any info on this route or the person that put it up please PM me or email Beacon.Rock@AvaSys.com.

 

Safety Issues

 

Grassy Ledges Safety Rockfall: Well it turns out we had significant rockfall onto the trailhead/tunnel #1 area on both Saturday and Sunday. We still aren't entirely sure where from but are pretty damn sure it is from the main Grassy Ledges trail. The lower Grassy Ledges in that area have been inspected and given the infrequency of travel over them it is probably not the source whereas the main trail is littered. If we can't pin this down and if anymore incidents happen we will be proposing a brief (several day closure to clean the entire Grassy Ledges and the chutes that cross it. Please re-read the previous status update on this issue if this is the first time you are reading about it.

 

General Issues

 

Bird Bands: The Peregrines have to eat and we've found two bird bands on bones up on various column tops recently. One of these was from a Vancouver-based racing pigeon and the other has been sent to David Anderson, the WDFW Biologist chartered with managing the Peregrines, we'll keep you posted as to what it was when we find out. Please keep your eyes open for these and turn them in to the BSRP Staff or contact myself, Jim Opdycke, or Bill Coe and we'll get them passed along. As a side note we've seen the Peregrines on almost every trip out to Beacon this year - keep your eyes and ears open as the are a pretty amazing sight, particularly in a steep dive...

 

Bears: One of Mama's two year olds was idling along the tracks between Beacon and the boat launch yesterday. Looked healthy and happy as it clamored back down into the nature reserve along the river.

 

Joseph Healy

Beacon Rock Climber's Association

[JosephH]

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Beacon Rock Update - 10/6/05...

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Anchor Replacement Project

 

"Flying Swallow": The top anchor on "Flying Swallow" has been replaced, but it does not have webbing and rings on it yet but definitely needs them - this is not a rap for rapping off the hangers due to the friction when trying to pull the rope. From this rap you can get to various anchors with two ropes. The mid-point anchor for "Iron Maiden" is directly below on this rap and, in fact, you have to swing a bit to the left to get back to the mid-point anchor for "Flying Swallow". Work was rudelying interrupted by rain and work on the anchors in this area will be completed this Sunday.

 

"Iron Maiden": As mentioned, the mid-point anchor on "Iron Maiden" has been replaced and it will remain just hangers without webbing and rings which aren't needed on this anchor. The old bolts and hangers have not yet been removed but will be in the next few days.

 

"Double Dirty Overhang": The top anchor for "Double Dirty Overhang has been located and this aid climb has some issues. The route from the anchors up to Grassy Ledges proper or to the "Flying Dutchman" rap is severely overgrown making entry and exit from the anchors difficult. Further, the upper part of the route itself is now completely overgrown with bushes and trees. It will take a substantial cleaning effort to recover this climb; likely work for next year.

 

[Note of thanks to Mark (HillsHugger) for helping hump gear up to the Grassy Ledges and to Shane and Lee for helping hump it back out in the rain.]

 

 

Safety Issues

 

Grassy Ledges Safety Rockfall: The recent rains have been bringing rocks down and the area at the start of the "SE Corner" has obviously taken multiple hits. We don't know where these rocks came from but we suspect the blackberry retaining chute that crosses the Grassy Ledges. Add this to last weekend's rockfall of football size rocks on both days onto the area just as you come up to Tunnel #1 and you get conditions that pretty well dictate wearing a helmet. As always - be extra careful of each and every footfall and rope movement when anywhere up on Grassy Ledges. For that matter just clip rock, bushes, anchors, or anything else if you're traversing the ledges roped - try not to let your rope drag at all...

 

General Issues

 

Central Columns Route Adoption: We're working hard with the Anchor Replacement Project to set the stage for ressucitating all the routes across the columns in the middle of the South face. But there is a problem. After years of folks mainly climbing around the SW and SE corners, the columns have become badly overgrown. However, once the anchors are all set we should be able to safely clean out and restore the South face column routes. This will probably be the post opening thrust next year. All of you interested in climbing these classics, or freeing some of the remaining aid pitches, might consider working together on restoring these routes. If everyone adopted two or three lines, cleaned them up, and revisited them each year we could probably get this all done in a month and then just be able to relax and enjoy climbing these routes the rest of the year. Keep it in mind anyway and we'll probably put together a meeting over the winter.

 

 

Joseph Healy

Beacon Rock Climber's Association

[kevbone]

Please do not do anything with the tree, no dirt, no slings, nothing, a sign posted saying please do not rap off of the tree on tree ledge on the kiosk or online is about all we can do. This is a unsafe place to rapell. In ten years of climbing there, everytime I have run across slings on the tree, I cut them off and will continue to do so. It might be morbid but if someone wants to rap on the tree and the tree goes bye bye, then its their time, they should know better. People who have the skills to lead up the that ledge should have the skills to recognize that this tree is on its last leg, either top out to the next rap station or go over to the Youngwariors anchor or dont go climbing.

And please never put a bolt anchor on this ledge. It is a gear anchor.

Edited October 10, 2005 by kevbone