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[TR] Snowcreek Wall- Hyperspace 7/13/2005


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Climb: Snowcreek Wall-Hyperspace


Date of Climb: 7/13/2005


Trip Report:

I convinced Tradchica do quit ropegunning for her boyfriend Frosty the Tradman and come climbing with me for a two days. We arrived in L-town late on Tuesday night. The next morning we obtained bivy permits for snow lake and headed up to snow creek wall. (We were on our way to S. Face of Prussik to meet Frosty) Climbed Hyperspace in 7 excellent pitches. While it was not the ultra clean rock found in the Sierra's it was an excellent route and very sustained.


Pitch 1 - We started with me leading the first pitch of RPM 5.10 + thin slab. Right at the start of the route there is a cleaned out place in a seam for an orange TCU. I suggest you place it because I whipped off and this and Tradchica's excellent belay where the only things that kept me from decking. Anyway after the crux and the 2nd bolt which I yarded on after falling the climbing is easy and you can make it to the big ledge therefore combining pitches one and two.


Pitch 2 - "Psychopath pitch" Pretty chill. I fell after trying to work back into the seam two soon. For me the trick was to climb left on the face holds high and then make a stem back to the right side of the crack and swing back in. Tradchica climbed the crack straight up and would have cruised it except one of the hybrid aliens I used to protect the crux was a pain to clean.


Pitch 3 - Tradchica takes the lead and cruises up and around a roof on the right side. Then follows crack up to a ledge on the left. Easiest pitch on the climb.


Pitch 4 - The crack goes up and into a blocky overhanging wall. It looks really tough from below but it is not that bad. Climbs like a 11a sportclimb with good natural gear. I hung a piece though. This pitch ended at bolts on the face left of the crack. Looking up you could see the bolt heading out right for iconoclast and onto the apron.


Pitch 5 - Tradchica climbs the steep corners around an overhang on the left and up to the belay with the big bush visible from below. An excellent pitch with 5.10+ crack climbing and good pro.


Pitch 6 - The pressure chamber. Make sure you get over to the right hand crack immediately. Otherwise you can cruise up a nice crack into a sticker bush and then make some scary barndoory hard moves back to the crack to the right. I suggest just going right from the start. The pressure chamber was severely butt kicking and I aided through it because I was tired, it was getting late, and if you give me some time I can think of some more good excuses. It was vedavooish! Tradchica worked higher then I did and then cruised the rest with a 3:1 client belay.


Pitch 7 - Looked tough and tradchica elected to let me lead it because I had not yet had a clean lead on the route! This last pitch was possibly my favorite. Go up the TCU eating corning for 20 feet then traverse left on a small ledge. The ledge goes out into space and you are stuck doing a step across move over space and swinging into a nice crack. Head up and turn the roof on the left with nice 5.10 moves. Cruise to the top and set a belay.


Overall a great route, very sustained! We then hiked up to snow lakes and climbed the S. Face of Prusik the next day, but I will save that story for another day.


Gear Notes:

Aliens, TCU's, Stopper, and camalots, small cams useful on psychopath pitch.


Approach Notes:

Easy 1 hour approach.

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Err, where is Polish Bob when you need him. I'm sorry but this isn't the first time I have seen someone claim that pitch 4 is 5.11 and there is no way thats true. Compare it to pyscopath which is 5.11- and way harder. Pitch 4 is 10c max more like 10b. And pitch 5 is no harder than 10a/b. Sorry for the pointless ratings drivel.


Nice work by the way

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