advice needed: hood south side route (Hogsback)

[plark42]

Has anyone recently been up the South side/Hogsback route up Hood? If so, what conditions are at the top near the pearly gates? My girlfriend and I want to summit mt. hood- should I bring a rope for the upper part of the hogsback/pearly gates? Or would I just get in the way of other climbers if I took the time to set up a belay for her/myself (or is it even necessary???) I've heard a bunch of different things about the hogsback and pearly gates- varying from easy (with steps already there) to icy and you fall you die. I also heard that it is a "bowling alley" for rock and ice, so I guess a belay would be unreasonable. I am a relatively experienced mountaineer (in Colorado and Alaska) and she is taking a climbing class this weekend to refresh her snow skills.

 

I guess I am just asking for the overall impression of that part of the climb... is it difficult (requires front-pointing?) or just easy and a bit hairy... Thanks for the advice.. Hopefully my lack of knowledge won't insult anybody. If so, I'm sorry.

[Chriznitch]

if you are experienced then don't worry too much.

It is a fun route! Belay if you feel necessary, but don't rope up if you're not placing pro...

[dan_t]

I was just up there on Thursday. The pearly gates were a bit icy but there are well established steps so you’ll just need to be careful, especially on the way down. You’ll want to cross the schrund on the hogsback on the left; you should be able to see the bridge with no problem. I don’t rope up when I do the s. side, but if you think that you’d be more comfortable roped then definitely do it. Just make sure that you start early and wear your helmets and you’ll be fine. You just don’t want to be up there once the sun hits the face.

Have fun!

[Kevin_Matlock]

I'm headed up tonight so I'm not speaking from extremely recent experience, but it's pretty much just icy steps. I've seem info that the summit is suppose to be above freezing so that might make for some interesting crap falling. Be sure and hit it early.

A decent amount of people rope up for the damn thing though... without pro... and setting WAY too much slack between them. If you rope up, short haul it so any falls can be arrested quickly. You don't want someone falling and then building up speed when they hit your end of the rope.

It really doesn't warrant the rope anyway so lighten the pack and leave it at home.

[plark42]

Thanks for the info- I was planning on bringing a short and light 30m 9mm rope and some pickets just in case. I think it won't be necessary though (based on all the pictures I've viewed). Thanks for the responses.

[TJD]

The danger of the hogsback route is other parties falling .They can take you down if you are roped up. I understand you wanting to protect your partner. It is something you will have to figure out for your self.

 

You can go west of Crater rock and have solitude,but it is a little more steep with no steps.

[mattp]

I think it is fair to say that a slip on that slope above the Hogsback could be fatal. Most of us would not rope up because we don't believe we are risking a slip on terrain like that, and the advice not to rope up if you are not going to belay is basically sound, but just because it is deemed a "beginner's climb," don't take it too lightly.

 

If either you or your partner are not somewhat experienced climbing up and down a firm or maybe icy snow surface, be careful!

[sean_beanntan]

When you get to the hogsback, you can check on the folks climbing the hill. If there is much sillyness ie long ropes with plenty of slack and no snow pickets, then you have the option to climb way left of the shrund and finish up the remainder of west crater rim using the old chute as a exit. Its a nice quieter climb that you will enjoy and you get to belay if necessary. Its bnot much steeper but with no boot pack, it will be plenty of french steps

[plark42]

Thanks for all the responses- I will look into the west crater rim variation... it seems like it would be more fun anyway (more solitude) and maybe a bit safer- (with a belay). Does it require a second tool? or front-pointing? How steep is it?

 

Thanks!!

[iain]

A second tool is really up to the climber. The West Crater Rim is not very steep, so if you have at least some skill with your axe as a self belay, a single axe is definitely adequate for the route. In fact, a single tool is adequate for most routes on Hood if your skills and your partner are sound. Remember it is self belay that is the most important skill, not self arrest. If you are essentially "guiding" your partner up and he/she does not have much experience, a second tool might be a wise choice to always have a belay in place should your "client" slip. It can look silly on a moderate route, but it is a good precaution if your partner is sketching.

 

Also watch out for crevasses creeping up near the "standard route" as you leave the climber's trail above Palmer. At least one person has glissaded into one this year so far, in broad daylight. He required help to get out.

[plark42]

Thanks for the advice.. We are both taking a snow climbing class this saturday (as a refresher)... so.. we should be fine. I am going to bring a short rope and snow pro along anyway just in case she (or I for that matter) feel sketched out.

[Ricardo_Montalban]

if you're going to do the w. crater route, i'd suggest skirting to the left (west) of crater rock on your ascent b/c once you're on the hogsback, taking the 'old crater' route seems sooooooo far out of the way you're not likely to do it. plus, on the WCR route you're less likely to encounter a crowd and can go at your own pace.

whichever route, have fun!!

[plark42]

I think avoiding the crowds (and minimizing the impact of human error) might be a better judgment call than minimizing the risk of the steepness (i.e., taking the hogsback/pearly gates route). Thanks for all the help- any pictures would be nice

[KaskadskyjKozak]

I think avoiding the crowds (and minimizing the impact of human error) might be a better judgment call than minimizing the risk of the steepness (i.e., taking the hogsback/pearly gates route). Thanks for all the help- any pictures would be nice

 

You could also get an earlier start than everyone else to beat the crowds.

[plark42]

what time would you think is best for that? 12am? 1am?

[mattp]

Judging by some of the recent reports here, you'll be competing with lots of other people who have the same plan. An afternoon climb might also be a way to encounter less crowds.

[plark42]

Afternoon? wouldn't that put me more at risk with the mountain hazards such as rock and ice fall and weak snow bridges? I think I'd rather face the crowds!

 

Thanks for the input.

[Kevin_Matlock]

Afternoon gets pretty soft and shit can start flying off onto your head.

If you really don't mind the crowds (pretty much can't avoid them no matter WHEN you climb it!), better to stick with the early morning. Since it's your first time up you will want to hit the hogsback during the day light hours so you can see what you are doing. Generally speaking, from t-line it takes 4 or 5 hours to the hogsback. So, that said, maybe start at 1AM. Any earlier and you will risk getting off course in the dark (very difficult to do but still possible).

[plark42]

Sure thing- I guess if I want to climb mt. hood, i'll just have to do it along with a huge crowd.

[Suz]

Sorry - one more redundant post. Went up a week and a half ago with two very athletic but relatively unexperienced folks. A bit of ice axe and rope training and confidence in their general coordination.

 

We went up the pearly gates unroped, and there were loose ice crystals filling in each step, which made it a little skethcy but not bad. If things are softer, shouldn't be a problem. Everyone made it up fine, though a little tensely.

 

NOTE: We started at 1am on a Wednesday, so there were only two solo climbers ahead of us. Definitely do it this way if you can!!!

 

The way down is always more interesting, though, especially with more people climbing up above the bergschrund. We elected to rope up and go down the west crater variation, placing pickets as protection. This way is steeper, does still have a runout, but is much less cluttered with people and schrund, and is beautiful!!!

 

I think this was a good combination of approaches. Up is generally easier than down, and we got the best of both worlds.

[Dr_Crash]

I'm thinking of driving down there tomorrow and soloing early Sun morning. Any recent conditions updates on both routes? I climbed the Hogsback last year, and may just go with what I've done already since I'll be alone.

 

drC

[plark42]

we might be up there sunday morning... I think the weather is supposed to be shitty so.. who knows? I think the west crater variation sounds more fun in general- steep snow climbing with a belay is more fun (and more predictable) than having to deal with PEOPLE!!! Thanks for all the input everyone- Keep 'em comin'. (does the bergschrund come into play on the west crater variation?

[Dr_Crash]

Yeah, I looked at the forecast and it's 42% chance rain on Sun. I am so tired of this !@^*!(@$# "summer" (especially after the crappy winter; it's all reversed). Tomorrow is 20% only but it's a bit late for that (still in Seattle), and Monday is partly cloudy. Hmmm. I'll try on Sunday. Better to turn back than not get out.

 

drC

[plark42]

ya- I was up there today (saturday) to teach my girlfriend some snow climbing skills and the weather sucked!! It was cold and rainy with very low visibility. We spoke to a few climbers who were on there way out and said that it was just too crappy up there.

[Divot]

So when ya planning on going up for sure?....I plan to head up and solo it soon, just havent decided....It would be nice to have some company.