Buck Mt.?

[Jens]

Anybody mess around on the North Side of Buck Mt.?

A cartographer report lists it's north aspect as one of the greatest vertical reliefs in the state. It's got some huge walls above glacier ice but the Beckey book calls the rock quality some of the worst around. Anybody have experience on the peak or photos of the North aspect? Anyone make any exploratory attempts?

[Jake]

Yeah there is definitely some relief. I've thought about heading up there to check it out someday. This is a pic of the EAST face, not the north.

 

Edited June 28, 2005 by Jake

[klenke]

Jake, your "current" pic is of the E. Face above King Lake.

 

See my Buck Mountain page on summitpost for photos of the N. Face. And maybe ask Berdinka for some beta as he was researching an approach to it (with beta I supplied to him). But maybe it's his secret project so he won't.

[Jake]

So my memory is failing me! Oh well. The N. Face is right around the corner on the right.

[kurthicks]

Beckey says it's pretty crappy rock, but who cares when it looks like this:

 

looks like a brutal approach though.

[dberdinka]

ALL YOU NEED TO SEE!

 

I just went backpacking up yonder to Buck Creek Pass. Beautiful place! The north face is not as steep as it looks in the above photo, though still worthy in the right conditions.

 

The face certainly looks like shit for rock climbing however the NE Arete (left edge of photo) is huge (2000' tall) easily accessed from King Lake and only looks sorta chossy. Somebody should definitely go climb it. I think Fred had dissed it but you really got to take his opinion with a grain of salt when it comes to unclimbed lines.

 

Good luck!

[kurthicks]

that's what I meant to do, thanks Darin.

[dberdinka]

Photo taken 6/18 from near Buck Creek Pass.

 

[forrest_m]

anyone know where the chiwawa river road is gated in the winter?

[klenke]

Usually close to Fish Lake, I think--a long way from the end. It might depend on the time of winter and the conditions.

[PVD]

How rough is Chiwawa River Road? I've been planning to head up that way in August, but I have a pretty low Honda Civic with a brand new exhaust that I don't want to damage.

[klenke]

It starts out paved for eight or nine miles then goes to good gravel with occassional potholes for a couple of miles until the trailhead for Basalt Peak. From there the road turns to more dirt and less gravel but with some gravel stretches. The dirt part is wobbly and rutted with some jutting rocks but should be okay for your car. There are also hidden bends and dips that sneak up on you. Later, the road goes back to gravel. The final two miles up to Phelps Creek TH is worse (more rutted and rocky) than the final mile to Trinity. You may not like the Phelps spur. Trinity should be okay (flatter).

[dberdinka]

2wd low-clearance should have no troubles getting to Trinity. Every winter there is typically enough snow on the ground so that there is a big snowpark right at the Fish Lake turnoff, leaving 24 miles to Trinity then another 4 mile approach on good trail. With a snow mobile getting into that face would be pretty darn casual.

[Alex]

That arete sure looks Sir Donald-esque.

[John_Roper]

Here’s another shot of the Buck Horn Arete . Second picture on page.

[Jens]

I plan to climb the buttress -leaving tomorrow.

[Gary_Yngve]

 

 

[telemarker]

 

Even though there's a lot of tilt in this image, it's a nice profile of the ridgeline from the East perspective.

[klenke]

Let me help out telemarker here:

[Gary_Yngve]

This is an interesting shot:

 

 

It's a combo of morning light and evening light.

[dberdinka]

I plan to climb the buttress -leaving tomorrow.

 

Well? How did it go?

[klenke]

Maybe it's still going.

[layton]

i thought that buttress was climbed and beckey said in his guide that the FA'ers said don't repeat it, the route sucks?

[dberdinka]

i thought that buttress was climbed and beckey said in his guide that the FA'ers said don't repeat it, the route sucks?

 

Mike, we all need to chip in and buy you a "Reading for Comprehension" manual.