specialed Posted July 13, 2001 Posted July 13, 2001 Can anyone recomend any longer (5+ pitches) free routes on any of the spires at Wash. Pass? Something with good exposure, good rock, 5.9/5.10/5.11 range. I've already done Lib. Crack and Boving route on NW EWS. Freedom Rider perhaps? [This message has been edited by specialed (edited 07-13-2001).] Quote
highclimb Posted July 13, 2001 Posted July 13, 2001 the direct east buttress of SEWS is done free at 5.11 the direct east buttress of NEWS is 10a i think Tooth and Claw on the east face of Lexington Tower 5.11/12 i think And the east face of lexington is 5.9 Aidan Quote
verticalturtle Posted July 13, 2001 Posted July 13, 2001 highly UN-RECOMMEND direct east of NEWS. This route is the reason Petzl replaced my helmet. The good pitches aren't, and the descent Birdo describes to do is bad even dangerous. IF you do it do the descent for SEWS around the S side. It is more direct and less dangerous. VT Quote
Drederek Posted July 13, 2001 Posted July 13, 2001 Freedom rider, only a way to get past aiding the bottom of liberty crack. It does have a couple nice pitches. Have you done Medusa Roof? Have heard add three letter grades to pitches on T&C. Quote
specialed Posted July 14, 2001 Author Posted July 14, 2001 How is that there tooth & claw route? - Quote
jason_h Posted July 14, 2001 Posted July 14, 2001 don't forget the west face of NEWS, it's quite good. Quote
jason_h Posted July 14, 2001 Posted July 14, 2001 don't forget the west face of NEWS, it's quite good. Quote
Drederek Posted July 15, 2001 Posted July 15, 2001 Jason, Is that the obvious splitter crack? The Beckey guide says something about a tension traverse out of the top of it? It sure looks sweet! Quote
jason_h Posted July 15, 2001 Posted July 15, 2001 yeah-it's the pretty obvious white streak up the west face. goes free at like 10d/11a. no tension traverse is needed- i imagine he is talking about the fifth pitch where one climbs left for like 10 ft past a bolt to get to another crack-it is like 5.8 or so to do free. it's cool and there is only about 50 or 60 ft of climbing that is harder than 5.9. Quote
lisa Posted July 16, 2001 Posted July 16, 2001 Just beware of mounties in the area, they tend to hurl rocks down w/every few moves. After a dozen 'rock' cries, this past weekend, got fed up and motored around them. Somewhere in their course they were ill instructed, never will climb when mountaineers are that new and near. Quote
EV Posted July 16, 2001 Posted July 16, 2001 I don't think you'll find the mounties climbing at 510d-5.11 routes. I think their hangout is the beckey route, concord, sews and kangaroo temple. Quote
terrible_ted Posted July 16, 2001 Posted July 16, 2001 Look east. The wine spires offer some nice options. Burgundy spire goes 4 - 5 pitches maxing at 5.8, I believe... About 2 hrs to the base. -t Quote
Bob_Clarke Posted July 16, 2001 Posted July 16, 2001 One of the best climbs in the wine spires....Chianti!!!! Every pitch solid. Quote
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