Lost #1 Camalot - 5/28 Castle Rock

[Dru]

oooh, the suspense!

[Billygoat]

How many pagetops will be "enuf", Dru?

[matt_m]

Damn - I post a little inquiry about what may have happened to my cam and it somehow turns into two pages of slander? Damn - got to love the internet forms and the social scene they create. In no particular order...

 

WTF is up with the google search and link? Did you skip the ones where they have Track and Field Results or the PICTURE of me in the Kitsap Sun (not my fault - lady was there that day) Might as well google John smith - Weird post and way off base. Moving on...

 

People need to get a SERIOUS grip on the whole "Your partner lied to you!" angle. Wow - issues Frankly, I KNOW she didn't lie but, it being her first time outside I took what she reported with a grain of salt - Going off the wall and saying this person is untrustworthy (again, I STATED SHE WAS NEW) is a little nuts.

 

You know what? I figured out what happened (partially based on this post) so let me lay it down

 

I wanted to take the G-friend outside for the first time - She's new to the sport so I went with something easier for her to try. I own three racks and grabbed the oldest one KNOWING THERE WAS A GOOD CHANCE something might get left behind. CLimber the route, at the roof I clipped a fixed Metolius Hex and, realizing she might not know what to do with the fixed gear told her to take everything but the fixed piece (Keep this in mind). She climbs - we get up to loggers ledge and as I re-rack for saber I notice the MIA #1. She says she didn't leave anything behind (take note) nor drop anything (I watched her most of the way and agree). She's damn smart (M.D.) and I know she wouldn't lie so I'm left to assume the piece unclipped and fell. I was curious what happened to it nonetheless (since piece unclipping are rare but not unheard of) I even ran back up to the base to see if it had fallen back to the ground. Another thing to add was the fact there was a another party starting up the route when I was belaying on Stoners Ledge.

So I get home and post the L & F report, more just to see if anyone had found it so I'd know it wasn't abducted - The whole crunchy karma thing isn't my bag but thought it might make the post sound more friendly. Frankly I too am of the old guard you leave it it's up for grabs. (Search for my post ANNOUNCING a brand new piece on Outer Space a while back - again - a calculated risk with some newer climbers - No expectations I'd get it back - just wanted someone to go grab it. I've benefited from booty and left it with no regrets keeping what I've found) Frankly, the hostile, rub it in your face post was dumb and uncalled for. I would have been more than happy to hear - yeah I found it and I'm going to adhere to the booty code (can I patent that? The Booty Code? That way if you find something you can call Booty code and not worry someone will get torqued that you kept it in the age of the internet - OK - Unless circumstances are extreme - I call booty code on any future gear I find! LAUGH!)

 

anyway - The Resolution to the CC.com Lost CAM Scandal:

 

Here's what happened - Partner left the cam behind and CLEANED all the gear off of it thinking it was the fixed piece I spoke of (Hence the missing carabiner on the FOUND piece) The neutrino probably just got sucked into the spares on my rack without my noticing it. I never said the fixed piece was a Hex (which newer partner wouldn't know anyway) Bottom line, I wasn't as clear as I could be and a piece was inadvertently left behind. No big deal.

 

I posted on CC.com to 1) See what happened to the mystery cam and 2) chance someone might give it back BUT WITH NO EXPECTATIONS THEREIN - I know the code and stick to it but I've also given back a 70m rope I found "just because". I've kept plenty as well.

Someone posts that they found it, my partner is a lier and sucks and I beat my wife. CC.com flame war ensues...

 

I could point out all the flaws and reasons the response was lame and wrong but - ehh - thats just too damn easy. Everyone here knows the score...

Edited June 8, 2005 by matt_m

[Billygoat]

Wow

 

The tale is even different than we all imagined. Thanks for clearing things up Matt.

 

Goat

 

BTW looks like I confused Catapult with Canary

[billcoe]

Thats funny Matt: I woke up this morning thinking that the reason BGoat was pissed at me, was because I so easily accepted the "your partner is a noob and lied to you" charge the 2nd Num layed down on post 2. It was wrong of me to so readily do so.

 

I also remembered an incident - long forgotten until now, which I experienced in the late 90's.

 

On a Saturday, I had led a route at Smith, left 2 draws on bolts and a backup piece of pro tossed in a crack so my partner Bob McMahan could follow TR'ed from the ground. He did, and he (I thought) then broke it down and rappelled. As the pieces were not visible from directly below due to a ledge, I didn't think twice.

 

Next day we are walking by that route and from a distance I see my stuff all hanging up there. He'd climbed up, clipped in, got off belay, then setup a rappel and just left all my stuff. He forgot to pull my stuff and thread it through the rap rings/anchors which were right there.

 

I ask him: "Hey, Bob, are you climbing up to pull my pieces or buying me new stuff"? (This was of course asked with a smile) Bob had no explanation when I asked him what had happened.

 

Now before anyone say Bob was either a Noob or a Liar. Let me say that at this point, Bob and I had been climbing together for @ 15 years. In the dictionary, if you look up "best climbing partner ever" I think his picture is still in there. No matter if you were on Liberty Ridge or Liberty Bell, Bob was awesome and rock solid. Very experinced in all facets of climbing, Bob was the guy you wanted to be tied into when the whiteout hit that remote peak or somebody ("please Bob lead this pitch as I've peed myself AGAIN thinking of the fall potential and can't climb with wet pants") had a do the full pitch runout in Yosemite or some other heinous rock offwidth. Bob was (still is) a licensed and accredited AMGA guide, and all the times we were together, no matter if guiding or climbing together: I rarely ever say him make a mistake or error in judgement.

 

And- In the @ 25 years I've known him, I have NEVER caught him lying to me. Never.

 

He just forgot, and he was standing on a ledge looking right at the gear.

 

Point is Matt: Stuff happens as you've so capably explained. Please accept my apologies.

 

Of course, you could have let the thread run until somebody accused you of climbing with Jeffery Dahmer or something like that -this being the internet and all.

 

Regards to all:

 

Bill

[matt_m]

No worries all - Classic example of the excitement we all can create with a little too much time. My S.O. having never seen a good ole slanderous Chat Forum got nice and worked up (she rarely has time in her line of work for an internet life) so I had to explain to her a typical topic run like this. I believe she requested a cold Guinness as reparations for the posts.

[thelawgoddess]

yeah, i think she deserves one!

[Szyjakowski]

We're talking the first pitch of Catapult, below Saber ledge and the step out, correct? I'm not sure why they did not check it out on the walk back out, since rapping the route is not done.

Let the record show that the route mentioned for MIA cam is on Lower Castle Rock (original post does clarify this...), an extension of the "Fault" feature, one moderate pitch and then one easy pitch. Canary, which billy mentions is on Upper Castle and climbs to saber ledge from Loggers ledge and then continues to summit via infamous scary canary move.

Looking for cam on hike down would be difficult to see on Catapult.

[Billygoat]

I corrected myself a couple posts above this one. So, rapping the route or walking around to inspect would indeed be problematic.

[Szyjakowski]

oh, i didn't read all posts. my bad.

[billcoe]

yeah, i think she deserves one!

 

I'll buy the first 2 if it will help!

[layton]

jesus's penis! why don't you all get a fucking room. how did this turn into a sunshine rainbow club. whoever wants the cam should fight the current owner to the death.

 

p.s. nice thread to read w/a kick ass bout of insomnia

[billcoe]

jesus's penis! why don't you all get a fucking room. how did this turn into a sunshine rainbow club. whoever wants the cam should fight the current owner to the death.

 

p.s. nice thread to read w/a kick ass bout of insomnia

 

You want aggro conflict Michael? Here ya are:

 

www.assclensionist.com opps,mean http://www.ascensionist.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=8846&an=0&page=0#8846

 

Where the thread starts out innocently enough as

 

"I copied this from a thread on another site asking for partners to climb East Buttress Direct on SEWS. When I questioned that he would climb this route with someone he didn't know this is the response I got:

 

" Besides, it's bolted. Also, washington pass isn't THAT alpine. "

 

Ah, the hubris of youth: no mention of the two 5.9 chimneys which I hear are no giveaway. Anyway, I thought it was humorous. Serious route, no question. "

 

then quickly deginerates with this from Trask about you sir:

 

" He asked wrong. Layton knows the proper way to find a partner -- classic:

 

Need partner for SEWS East Buttress Direct 8/15. Any of you clownpunching spray hording mouthbreathing windowlickers not too busy jackin' off to gay porn or giving beta on the tooth, then PM me and I will select one of you the rest can go Fuck yourself. "

 

Enjoy, now you have a place to be cranked and spit at and on!

 

Bill

[layton]

that's the spirit bill!

[billcoe]

that's the spirit bill!

 

 

errrr.....I was only saying that aggro is only a mouse click away - I'm glad it's not here.