Pipe(line) Dream

[Dechristo]

The classic solution is a #6 Camalot (formerly #5) stacked against a piece of 2X6.

that photo is a joke, and it will not work...

The 2x6 deal looks a bit shaky. I can split those things with a dead blow from a 14oz hammer...

 

It should work fine considering the nature of wood to allow its conformity to other surfaces under compression. Your objection (rightly so) is to the proclivity of wood to fracture along its grain. A piece of LVL (laminated veneer lumber) may be the solution. LVL is 1 3/4" thick, has no fracture weakness (no continuous grain), and will conform to surfaces under compression; weight your placements to set them. Worth a try.

 

You're not gonna need the pro anyway... you're gonna send the thing (once your psyche is assuaged by the effectiveness of the pro, it's all a head game anyway, eh?), and then chide yourself for the mental torture you put yourself through beforehand.

[RuMR]

gee...you are such a cut-and-paste wizard...

[archenemy]

Bring the big Bros and wood.

Give us a TR when you get back.

Take pictures for proof.

[Dechristo]

Bring the big Bros and wood.

 

Cute.

 

Big Bros ---> enlarged testes

 

Wood -------> a hard-on

 

Or were you suggesting the "wood" as off-width aid?

[archenemy]

If you need that much aid, you might not wanna try. Or at least, be sure to back-clean.

[Dechristo]

... be sure to back-clean.

 

Isn't that what underwear is for?

[archenemy]

Wasn't it you who posted about the parrot?

[Dechristo]

Aye, and that's why pirates started wearing underwear: to spare their parrots plumage... and their hineys from beaks.

[matt_warfield]

I just found that web site referred to earlier and it's definitely worth a look. It's very funny and has some good stuff including an ass-hand stack and pictures of injuries. The guy got his RP and then went back the next day and did it again for pictures! He's skinny too and couldn't get clear in for much of the crack. Cameron must be tiny to have gotten in. Go get it RuMR!

[archenemy]

I just found that web site referred to earlier and it's definitely worth a look. It's very funny and has some good stuff including an ass-hand stack and pictures of injuries. The guy got his RP and then went back the next day and did it again for pictures! He's skinny too and couldn't get clear in for much of the crack. Cameron must be tiny to have gotten in. Go get it RuMR!

Whatever you do, don't post the URL to that site

[RuMR]

just wait...dru will have the whole thing cut and pasted soon enough...

[archenemy]

Dru eats paste

[Dechristo]

...and wipes with copies.

[Dru]

At least, unlike you, I know "that guy" with the website.

 

tHe real question is why would anyone climb Pipeline or any hard OW in the first place??? OW sucks.

[jmace]

DRU, whats your take on the wood thing, everyone has seen the guide ad of the guy using that technique, hes also climbing wit wool socks?? Someone who knows hime told me it was a joke, I cant see it working, maybe with 2 peices of wood one on either side?

[Dru]

We tried that with a #4 Camalot and a chunk of 2x4 once and it will hold, but you need both hands to place it. I think there's a pic of this technique in Yosemite Climber, on Excalibur?

 

it works more or less the same as nailing a bong in stacked against a chunk of wood will, in that it will hold you to rest on, but who the hell knows how strong it is if you fall

[jmace]

yes I thought it would hold body weight, highly doubt it would hold a fall. I climbed Godforsaken land last year and saw people top roping pipeline so you can always practise

[archenemy]

I climbed Godforsaken land last year and saw people top roping pipeline so you can always cheat

[RuMR]

werd...that would destroy the experience on that route...

[mec]

Is all of this considered beta, so I can't get the onsight now? If so, I will be soooo bummed out.

[RuMR]

better check w/ polishednob on that one...

[RICHARD_CILLEY]

Greg definatly had a different mindset.We are talking about a guy that also onsight soloed the lost arrow chimney.Its only 10a but harder than astroman.Greg was one of my best friends and climbing partner in the 70s and 80s.

[RICHARD_CILLEY]

And Greg is not skinney at all.

[RuMR]

man...those guys were just basically badass...

 

You are in spain now?

[Buckaroo]

I led the hollow flake on the Salathe. One number 5 camalot, one number 3 big bro, one number 4 big bro.

 

You're all by yourself with 1000 feet of air beneath your heels. The belayer is out of site around the corner. It's not a clean fall, depending on your gear you could hit the rubble filled bottom of the chimney or glance off the slab below. The 5 cam was useless, it got left 5 feet off the bottom. The number 3 big bro was walked up the 30 to 40 feet of the vertical crux section and left at the top where it starts to ease off. The number 4 right after that.

 

TOTAL aerobics. You can maintain position but upward mobility is difficult. Big bros are hard to walk, and it takes several long seconds, up to half a minute depending on the rock, before it's protecting you again. They are also hard to place, practice and learn before a hard lead.

 

Practice an offwidth chimney if you can find one down low, sometimes architecture has them, it's very technique dependent. I was thinking about building an adjustable offwidth training chimney just to hone technique, if I ever get some spare time.