Dechristo Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 The classic solution is a #6 Camalot (formerly #5) stacked against a piece of 2X6. that photo is a joke, and it will not work... The 2x6 deal looks a bit shaky. I can split those things with a dead blow from a 14oz hammer... It should work fine considering the nature of wood to allow its conformity to other surfaces under compression. Your objection (rightly so) is to the proclivity of wood to fracture along its grain. A piece of LVL (laminated veneer lumber) may be the solution. LVL is 1 3/4" thick, has no fracture weakness (no continuous grain), and will conform to surfaces under compression; weight your placements to set them. Worth a try. You're not gonna need the pro anyway... you're gonna send the thing (once your psyche is assuaged by the effectiveness of the pro, it's all a head game anyway, eh?), and then chide yourself for the mental torture you put yourself through beforehand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 gee...you are such a cut-and-paste wizard... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archenemy Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 Bring the big Bros and wood. Give us a TR when you get back. Take pictures for proof. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dechristo Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 Bring the big Bros and wood. Cute. Big Bros ---> enlarged testes Wood -------> a hard-on Or were you suggesting the "wood" as off-width aid? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archenemy Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 If you need that much aid, you might not wanna try. Or at least, be sure to back-clean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dechristo Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 ... be sure to back-clean. Isn't that what underwear is for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archenemy Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 Wasn't it you who posted about the parrot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dechristo Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 Aye, and that's why pirates started wearing underwear: to spare their parrots plumage... and their hineys from beaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_warfield Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 I just found that web site referred to earlier and it's definitely worth a look. It's very funny and has some good stuff including an ass-hand stack and pictures of injuries. The guy got his RP and then went back the next day and did it again for pictures! He's skinny too and couldn't get clear in for much of the crack. Cameron must be tiny to have gotten in. Go get it RuMR! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archenemy Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 I just found that web site referred to earlier and it's definitely worth a look. It's very funny and has some good stuff including an ass-hand stack and pictures of injuries. The guy got his RP and then went back the next day and did it again for pictures! He's skinny too and couldn't get clear in for much of the crack. Cameron must be tiny to have gotten in. Go get it RuMR! Whatever you do, don't post the URL to that site Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 just wait...dru will have the whole thing cut and pasted soon enough... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archenemy Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 Dru eats paste Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dechristo Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 ...and wipes with copies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 At least, unlike you, I know "that guy" with the website. tHe real question is why would anyone climb Pipeline or any hard OW in the first place??? OW sucks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmace Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 DRU, whats your take on the wood thing, everyone has seen the guide ad of the guy using that technique, hes also climbing wit wool socks?? Someone who knows hime told me it was a joke, I cant see it working, maybe with 2 peices of wood one on either side? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 We tried that with a #4 Camalot and a chunk of 2x4 once and it will hold, but you need both hands to place it. I think there's a pic of this technique in Yosemite Climber, on Excalibur? it works more or less the same as nailing a bong in stacked against a chunk of wood will, in that it will hold you to rest on, but who the hell knows how strong it is if you fall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmace Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 yes I thought it would hold body weight, highly doubt it would hold a fall. I climbed Godforsaken land last year and saw people top roping pipeline so you can always practise Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archenemy Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 I climbed Godforsaken land last year and saw people top roping pipeline so you can always cheat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 werd...that would destroy the experience on that route... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mec Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 Is all of this considered beta, so I can't get the onsight now? If so, I will be soooo bummed out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 better check w/ polishednob on that one... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD_CILLEY Posted May 13, 2005 Share Posted May 13, 2005 Greg definatly had a different mindset.We are talking about a guy that also onsight soloed the lost arrow chimney.Its only 10a but harder than astroman.Greg was one of my best friends and climbing partner in the 70s and 80s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD_CILLEY Posted May 13, 2005 Share Posted May 13, 2005 And Greg is not skinney at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 15, 2005 Share Posted May 15, 2005 man...those guys were just basically badass... You are in spain now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted May 16, 2005 Share Posted May 16, 2005 I led the hollow flake on the Salathe. One number 5 camalot, one number 3 big bro, one number 4 big bro. You're all by yourself with 1000 feet of air beneath your heels. The belayer is out of site around the corner. It's not a clean fall, depending on your gear you could hit the rubble filled bottom of the chimney or glance off the slab below. The 5 cam was useless, it got left 5 feet off the bottom. The number 3 big bro was walked up the 30 to 40 feet of the vertical crux section and left at the top where it starts to ease off. The number 4 right after that. TOTAL aerobics. You can maintain position but upward mobility is difficult. Big bros are hard to walk, and it takes several long seconds, up to half a minute depending on the rock, before it's protecting you again. They are also hard to place, practice and learn before a hard lead. Practice an offwidth chimney if you can find one down low, sometimes architecture has them, it's very technique dependent. I was thinking about building an adjustable offwidth training chimney just to hone technique, if I ever get some spare time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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