Outer Space? HOw honest is the rating?

[Gary_Yngve]

I can do Deception Crack, 5.9 on Eightmile Rock and it is easy. Likewise Classic Crack, 5.8+ is very easy.

 

Deception Crack is a one-move wonder.

Classic Crack is short.

The crux pitch on Outer Space is sustained.

 

no its like 15 feet.

 

Maybe the traverse toward the top of the pitch is 15 feet, but the whole pitch is sustained steep climbing. On the other hand, Godzilla is not. There are three ledges to chill on between the ground and the top.

[Mr._Natural]

if you do the left hand start you can chill in the alcove thing before starting the crux. there is at lease one more no hands rest on that pitch.

[eric8]

I bet if we try really hard we can get this thread to go for 5 full pages. That would be sweet, a discussion on the grade of the most climbed multipitch route in the state going for 5 pages. I would say the traverse pitch is like 5.9 b/c or m5 or 5.7 c1

[tomtom]

Bullshit. I bet R&D sees more ascents.

[Szyjakowski]

RD vs Outerspace...definitely R&D for most ascents.

OS is nowhere near 5.10 CBS...don't inflate your ego. If anything it may be 5.9G for greasy. And Gary, as Mr natty says, rest up in the alcove and if you are creative you will discover there are other rests...If you think OS is steep for 5.9 then go climb Crack of Doom on Castle...Old Skewl 5.9.

[chucK]

Old Gray Mare -> Crack o' Doom. That's a quality pitch or two

[E-rock]

Oh my god this is SOOOO fucking classic. Catbirdseat arguing that OS is 5.10! Could there be any thread that further approaches a parody of itself.

 

OUTERSPACE IS 5.9 NOT 5.9 HARD not 5.9 EASY just FUCKING 5.9. If it feels harder to you than 5.9 than you ain't a 5.9 climber, PERIOD. Just because you can do ONE 5.9 EASY route and another 5.8 that is PURE HAND JAMMING and only SLIGHTLY difficult cuz of the grease (classic crack). DOesn't make you a 5.9 climber. A 5.9 climber CONSISTENTLY ONSIGHTS 5.9 EVERYWHERE. PERIOD. CAPICHE. NOW SHUT THE FUCK UP!

[mattp]

We're a parody of ourselves, allright. You, for example, can't pass up a chance to take a swipe at Catbird. He wrote that "it felt like .10+ ... I must have been having a brain fade on that traverse." They guy simply offers an honest opinion, and one which he knows he may be slammed for, and Szy says his ego must be inflated and you come on acting all indignant that he could post such a thing.

 

I think Szy has it closer to the mark when he says it is 5.9 greasy, though. The footholds are rather polished from having so much traffic over the years and the handholds can be sweaty. Whatever the rating, you can completely sew it up and, as noted, there are plenty of resting stances throughout the traverse if you trust your feet and allow yourself to chill.

[E-rock]

We're a parody of ourselves, allright. You, for example, can't pass up a chance to take a swipe at Catbird.

 

But it's so fun!

[Dru]

Could there be any thread that further approaches a parody of itself.

 

sure could, nodder!

[willstrickland]

So that horse is dead...but what I wanna know is:

 

Selkirk, did you go climb it or what?

[eric8]

So that horse is dead...but what I wanna know is:

 

Selkirk, did you go climb it or what?

 

hold up there Mr. Strickland you can not start asking that question till at least page 4.

[selkirk]

Nope, not yet. Haven't found a good weekend yet! This is certainly amusing though