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Squamish TR


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Mer and I spent the weekend cragging in Squamish.


On Saturday we climbed in Murrin. By parking on the highway at a pullout near Pet Wall we avoided paying the Murrin parking fee. Don't everyone do it or they'll put up a no parking sign there.


The last climb of the day was "Beyond The Bog" 11a behind the Bog Wall. My conclusion is that I am not going to redpoint this without some serious work frown.gif I will accept any and all useful beta for the crossthrough move at the first bolt.


Even though it rained in Vancouver on Saturday, Squamish was mostly dry. a few little drops of mist fell briefly for five minutes or so cool.gif


Saturday night was the last free camping night at the Chief campground. Camping fees started being charged/enforced Sunday night. The price is $9 CDN or $8 US.


On Sunday we cragged at the Bulletheads at first. After taking a spin up Cream of White Mice, Mer onsighted Coogee Crack (10c). w00t laugh.gif This thin crack is short and to the point. Look out for the exit move.


Sunday afternoon we went over to the Apron. We climbed this new 5.9 "Over The Rainbow" that Kevin McLane put up in 2004. It's a decent enough line, starts at the start of Sparrow and goes straight up roughly parallel to Sickle. The grade is 5.8/9 and it is sustained slab padding. I give it the Dru seal of approval. bigdrink.gif You will need 8 or 9 draws and a couple of pieces of gear (rack of mid-large nuts plus a #0.5, 1 and #2 Friend should do it). The pitches climb best with a 60m rope.

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What a tedious TR, allow to point out the highlights that Dru neglected.


Actually, day one was a pretty routine cragging day. Although we did have some smug fun with "proprietary guy" who demanded to know which route we were going to climb at bog wall because he was about to TR something. "The 5.11 arete around the corner" we said importantly before sneaking around the corner to put up our own TR so we could hang and flail and practice saying "taketaketaketaketake" really quickly. Then we strolled back down miming moves and talking loudly about heal hooks and crossthroughs. On Saturday eve, the money saved by not paying for parking or camping we squandered on Guinness at the Shady Tree. bigdrink.gif


Sunday morning we enjoyed the chance to snigger at hikers heading up the chief and their big packs, arsenal of poles, floppy hats and gaiters, Then Dru changed into his cut off jean shorts and accessorized with snazzy Teva knock-off sandals. I chose to wear my gold Polo Sport approach shoes and multi-zippered Schoeller pants. Craftily, as Dru had done Cream of White Mice before, he led the first pitch and left me the horrible traverse which I "protected" with two lobes of a zero cam and a tiny nut draped over a rounded protrusion. Then I got confused and lost, and yelled at my belayer for not saying the appropriate things to guide and soothe me. With much fuss and carrying on I finished the pitch.


On the way out I decided to do Coogie Crack. While on the pitch I reverted to being Princess PainInTheAss and demanded that Dru sing a little song to comfort me, and yell encouragement every time I put in a piece or inched up a fraction. With much wailing and nonsense I finished the pitch, but had to explain to Dru on the walk out that I had been "testing" that piece not weighting it.


We decided that our current outfits were OK for slab climbing but we'd better put on our ballcaps and slab shoes. Dru capably led all the pitches of Over the rainbow without fuss or yelling, including the 10b move out of the arch. I seconded everything whining about how much I hate slab, and bitching about the tightness of my new shoes. I did sport my blue Prana top for a pitch or two, accesorized with a pale white roll of flab pooching out over the top of my zippery pants. We smuggly complimented ourselves about finishing our 5.4 topout faster than the couple simuling on Diedre next door. Then Dru put on his Cloudveil wind shirt and we sauntered down the slabs.


Gear Notes: Accessories make the outfit.

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I completely agree with what you're saying as far as soothing remarks when you're in a tight spot. I got in a tight spot the other day and my belayer said "wow, that's gonna hurt when you fall" instead of "would you like to pet this fuzzy kitty?". Meanwhile I sewed up a wardrobe of clothing with my sewing machine and commenced to losing a pound of skin. Nice words can soften the granite battering. People should be more considerate! Thanks for finishing the job for Dru. thumbs_up.gif

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Hey Dru was that you I ran into on cream, I hiked to far and ended up at the top of the first pitch? I was there around 10 am after we climbed slot and golden labs? Also I climbed that route over the rainbow however I never knew what it was? but I thought it started beside diedre straight up to the tree beside the first belay of diedre then you can either go up the arch of sickle or up more bolts to the tree island then straight up over a arching flake that has dry green ooze stuff coming out of it, nice route, 5.9 seems a little on the high side to me but maybe I climbed a combo of routes.

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