Dru Posted May 2, 2005 Share Posted May 2, 2005 Mer and I spent the weekend cragging in Squamish. On Saturday we climbed in Murrin. By parking on the highway at a pullout near Pet Wall we avoided paying the Murrin parking fee. Don't everyone do it or they'll put up a no parking sign there. The last climb of the day was "Beyond The Bog" 11a behind the Bog Wall. My conclusion is that I am not going to redpoint this without some serious work I will accept any and all useful beta for the crossthrough move at the first bolt. Even though it rained in Vancouver on Saturday, Squamish was mostly dry. a few little drops of mist fell briefly for five minutes or so Saturday night was the last free camping night at the Chief campground. Camping fees started being charged/enforced Sunday night. The price is $9 CDN or $8 US. On Sunday we cragged at the Bulletheads at first. After taking a spin up Cream of White Mice, Mer onsighted Coogee Crack (10c). w00t This thin crack is short and to the point. Look out for the exit move. Sunday afternoon we went over to the Apron. We climbed this new 5.9 "Over The Rainbow" that Kevin McLane put up in 2004. It's a decent enough line, starts at the start of Sparrow and goes straight up roughly parallel to Sickle. The grade is 5.8/9 and it is sustained slab padding. I give it the Dru seal of approval. You will need 8 or 9 draws and a couple of pieces of gear (rack of mid-large nuts plus a #0.5, 1 and #2 Friend should do it). The pitches climb best with a 60m rope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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