suggestions for long rock routes Friday?

[crazy_t]

I was hoping to have a big day up at Washington Pass, but a sick tot is precluding the combined alpine start and early drive RT from Seattle. Does anyone know about approach and rock conditions for Darrington or Mt. Garfield? Or something else- hoping for a 1-2 1/2 hour drive then 1 hour or so approach to a long route, vs a 3-4 hour drive and longer approach. Snow Creek wall? Ideal would be 5-10 pitches up to easy 5.10 trad. Thanks in advance.

Edited April 28, 2005 by crazy_t

[catbirdseat]

There's lots of info elsewhere on this site on Darrington. Weather is going to be pretty iffy this weekend.

[Squid]

Snow Creek wall is a good idea.

You could make a nice link-up on Castle Rock, or at the 8 mile Buttress in the Icicle.

[larrythellama]

or you could just do multiple routes on scw.

tho i would have to recommend the sierra eastside right now long ski descents and long routes to be had. finnish skiing by 12pm and finnish climbing by 4:20. hot tub with your lady till sleep takes over. life does not get much better then that. a bit of a drive tho!>??

[Squid]

heck, if i wanted romance I'd do the crack routes under the aqueduct then nod out at the Lusty Lady

[larrythellama]

aww beta from another lonely office slave.

[skyclimb]

Dreamer is a great route is really fun, take the crimpy variation to the left at the top, 5.9 crimps way off the deck, very memorable pitch. I think MattP put that variation in.

[Dru]

"stairway to heaven" 16 pitch 5.10 a/b sport linkup on the chief from bulletheads to first summit

[spicoli11]

I think it's gonna shit on us west of the crest......watch out for the lure of the "longest sport route" on garfield. Your better off reading backpacker and eating doughnuts this weekend.

[layton]

"stairway to heaven" 16 pitch 5.10 a/b sport linkup on the chief from bulletheads to first summit

 

is this new. post more info please

[Dru]

it'll be in the new mclane guide in june

[gearheart]

Ahhh, the rumours are true. Have you climbed it or heard any other details about the soon-to-be most popular long route on the Chief?

[mec]

how much other new stuff is planned for the new guide?

[Sol]

if the weather cooperates, go climb the grand wall in squamish. on tuesday the route was totally dry except a few drips on the first pitch of merci me, and the last 3 feet of the second pitch of merci me. as of yesterday at about 4, davis holland lovin arms at index was completely dry(even the fourth pitch), but is was also starting to lightly sprinkle. if the weather goes south go over to leavenworth. careno crag has fantastic four pitch routes, condorphamine addiction route is mildly entertaining, castle rock, and or course outer space and orbit on snowcreek wall. good luck.

[crazy_t]

Thanks guys. Ended up checking the weather 1 last time and seeing that it was going south, rescheduling for Mon-Tues. Some good suggestions, I've only done a couple of them. The aqueduct-LLady linkup is definitely an inspired option I hadn't considered.

[Alex]

A great 6 pitch route is Fault/Catapult/Bone/SFace Jello Tower/Midway Direct on Castle rock. Better route than Outerpsace IMO.

 

Alex

[jmace]

Is there beta before June??