maxthegap Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 Tried to climd infinite bliss on mnt garfield on the 3-25-05 we believe we found the base of the climb and we scrambled up a few hundred feet we found 2 slings on 2 trees but we could never find the bolts for this climb. i am posting the picture that i took from what we believe is the base of the climb. if we were at the base of a diffrent climb i would love to know or if we were not at the right start for the climb. but there were 4 of us up there and we all could not find the bolts for this climb. i would be greatfull for any insight you all could give me. and yes i know the climb is wet this time of year but we wanted to climb up part of infinite bliss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mneagle Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 Looks like you were in the right place. Here is a picture a little higher up on the lower slabs I got off alpinedave's website. Note the light colored area that kind of looks like a quarter of a circle. For info on finding the bolts, check out Dave's website: http://www.alpinedave.com/garfield/infinite_bliss.htm  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 Shit probabaly got chopped since it was such a stupid-ass route. Its pretty atrocious that people from out of state came here to climb such a worthless pile of shit when there's way better routes to climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 Looks like you were generally in the right place, as your pic is definitely looking up the first 3rd of the route. Considering the route was climbed several times in the last few weeks, you likely just didnt find the fist pitch, which basically climbs the steep slab about 40 feet left of the slings on the trees you found. (Those slings are typically used for the last rap back down to the starting ledge.) The first bolt on the first pitch is about 20+ feet up and not that easy to spot, so if you were expecting a bolt ladder like Condor Buttress, you wouldn't have found it easily. Once you get the first few bolts past you, the route takes a natural line and is easy to follow. Â It could also be that you didnt hike the "trail" high enough to get to the base of the first pitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_m Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 Shit probabaly got chopped since it was such a stupid-ass route. Its pretty atrocious that people from out of state came here to climb such a worthless pile of shit when there's way better routes to climb. An awkward moment occurs as cc.comers decide weather or not they are going to stop and listen to the rantings of a man on his soapbox with the "Jesus Saves!" and "Bolts are the Devil" pamphlets or just walk by. Â Having done the route and made up my own mind about it, I choose to walk by... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 I'm not anti-bolt. Just anti rap power bolting in a wilderness (lowercase) area. The route is over-bolted, contrived, and put up in poor style. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
selkirk Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 Then don't climb it silly boy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_m Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 I'm not anti-bolt. Just anti rap power bolting in a wilderness (lowercase) area. The route is over-bolted, contrived, and put up in poor style. Â Ok - I probably went a little overboard on the bolt thing (much better for the humor segment though) No worries there. Â Since this route is obviously controversial I'm not under any illusion that one person is right and the other wrong - so the following comments are just that - my personal observations - think of this as good lively pub talk over a pint. Â 1) The rap bolting thing seems out of place here - it's one thing to argue about rap grid bolting at 38 (to which I've never been- only told about) it's another thing on a monstrous wall where often times it's hard to even SPOT the next bolt. I've hand drilled on scary slab on lead and have all the respect in the world for those sick routes in Yose done on lead (Bob Kamps is a GOD in my opinion) but the holier than thou drilling thing in this case is a little silly. It's like the NIAD - doing it in 12 hrs is very impressive (hand drill on lead) but doing it in 23 (power drill) isn't something I'm going to look down on either. Remember "poor style" is in the eye of the beholder - a shirt that is stylish to someone is often hideous to another. I consider intentionally dangerous routes put up because someone wanted to "be bold" in poor style. Â 2) There are only 2 pitches I'd even consider discussing as over bolted and in both cases I thought they were just right. Neither had bolts nearly as closely spaced as stuff in Vantage. I'd guess a bolt every 9-10 feet. On the other pitches I sometimes had to do the "Tuolumne-stop-and-look-for -the-next-bolt" routine. Â 3) Contrived? How so? I usually consider contrived to be things like "Climb the crack but the left wall is out" or " climb the face staying out of the crack on you left" I though the route took a somewhat natural line. It's tough to say on a route that goes up such a large face because in reality, there are numerous "ways" to go. Heck, if we stick with the "line of natural weakness" idea one could argue that Crest Jewel on North Dome in Yos is contrived because the route heads straight up in places instead of following the natural dikes that angle up and to the side in several places yet that route is considered a classic (actually, it's one of the best I've ever done) Â There you go, not saying I'm right, just giving reasons behind my thoughts. Bartender - another Black Butte please... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 You didn't go far enough up the trail. The trail jogs over to the creek at one point probably to give you a glance at the rock. That's probably where you started. At that point the trail jogs back up right and ascends another couple hundred feet (please don't take my "couple hundred feet" literally), then deposits you right at the base (a small pensinsula of rock that juts out below the route). Â I think Alex's second guess is probably correct. There's no way four (non-blind) people could have scrambled a couple hundred feet up the slabs at the base of the route and not found a single bolt. Â Here's a picture from the base of the route on a real smoggy day. The first bolt or two are probably just out of the frame lower right. Â I think you could probably have fun on this route if you don't have a big stick up your ass. Then again you could also get lost or benighted or hit by rockfall or both! Â Bring a helmet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gosolo Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 Does that stick need to be surgically removed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 Infinite Bliss is the Potted Meat Product of climbing. You all have very poor taste. Sad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minx Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 oh christonstick! we've got approximately 986,000 TRs on the Tooth on this board. that routes got about as much substance as a cheetoe. Infinite bliss may not have anymore class than Paris Hilton that's no reason not to ask questions about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 That's like your opinion and shit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxthegap Posted March 30, 2005 Author Share Posted March 30, 2005 we crossed the wash once but then came back out on the wash and climded the wash up to the base of the climband from there up it is slab all the way. but on a side not we did find 2 crowbars and a brush and a putty knife at the base of the climb. the crowbars had teathers attached to them we dont know if some one was chopping or cleaning the route Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 I'd say more like the "Wonder Bread" of climbing, the parallel being the name vastly overstating the quality. Â It ain't no N Butt of Fury. It's just a long, easy bolted climb with a pinch of unnecessary danger left in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 (edited) Holy shit! Maybe someone did chop it. The slings you found might've been the choppers' rap slings. Â So did you get to the base or not? Â Looking at your picture again, I am 99% sure it was taken from a point below the previously established route start. Â So were exactly did you find the crowbars? That would be funny if choppers went up there but couldn't find the route . Edited March 30, 2005 by chucK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 Interesting. But why a putty knife and brush? Sounds like cleaning tools to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 Maybe refill the bolt holes with mud or sumthin? Unnecessary, but who know? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxthegap Posted March 30, 2005 Author Share Posted March 30, 2005 yes we got to the base of the slabs were the wash and the slabs meet and we scrambled our way up about 300 ft but still couldnt find any bolts and that was with 4 sets of eyes looking. we went up the slab till we came to a flat area or rock and there is a treegrowing in the middel of it and there was a red sling around the tree we then went up to the right a bit to an outcropping of trees and there is one really large pine that had a blue sling around the base of it. and for the few of you we wanted to do a long easy climb we didnt care if we made it all the way or if it was dangerios cause of rock we wanted to go on an adventure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 I wouldn't exactly call following a line of bolts an "adventure." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 sped said to minx: That's like your opinion and shit. Â then maxthegap replied to sped: ...we wanted to go on an adventure. Â and lastly, sped quipped: I wouldn't exactly call following a line of bolts an "adventure." Â Hmmmmm, two sides of the same mouth? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 Not sure I follow. Since your post doesn't MAKE ANY FUCKING SENSE, I will assume you are drunk. However, that is a fine excuse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 Try going back and rereading the referenced posts in full. It should become clear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 Thanks Professor. You must be the smartest person in Yakima. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 Â I wonder if whoever is chopping IB will take public responsibility for their actions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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