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EJohnson

[TR] Prusik Car-to-Car- West Ridge 3/12/2005

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Climb: Prusik Car-to-Car-West Ridge

 

Date of Climb: 3/12/2005

 

Trip Report:

From Snow Creek Wall on, the trail is compact snow and ice with a nice boot path all the to the west ridge. The southern face & west ridge is bare and dry. Descent ledges are all snow covered, ice axe very handy to get back to the start.

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It doesn't look like winter up there. Snow Creek Wall & descent was bare and dry. All the lakes are still frozen over, but almost everything with southern exposer is melted out. The trail with slabs climbing up to Lake Viviane from Snow Lk are melted.

As for car-to-car time, around 18 hours. Started around 4am and got back around 10pm, very long day. It’s so beautiful up there, we were in no hurry to leave. Many thanks to Jesse, good conversation, sharing his food and carrying the rope.

 

Last year, mid-summer we did round trip in 12 hours. I contribute that to dry trail and summer hiking legs.

 

Looks like winter is back. There’s a snow advisory in effect until Thursday morning with accumulations up to 11 inches above 3000 feet.

 

Erick

Edited by EJohnson

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Pictures from last weekend, taken by Jesse Salk

Snow Lake

1099DSCN0676.jpg

South Face

1099DSCN0689.jpg

Lake Viviane

1099DSCN0684.jpg

West Ridge

1099DSCN0695.jpg

2nd Pitch

1099DSCN0705.jpg

Horn

1099DSCN0712.jpg

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Very nice thumbs_up.gif - thanks for posting those. I can't believe how dry the rock looks! I guess now there is a fresh coating of snow on it, though ...

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Damn there is less snow there now than there was in June a few years ago

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It was very nice up there. We lounged on the summit 30 minutes: eating, taking pictures & picking out other routes. Compared to last July we had snow flurries, high wind we started rapping immediately.

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Hmm . . . Not sure I agree with that . . . . guess it depends on how you do it, but I climbed right where the climber is pictured, all three times I've been on the W Ridge.

 

Reckon it depends on how you define "normal route."

 

Anyway, staying right on or near the ridge crest was more exposed and more exciting for me.

 

Nice work on sending it car to car in march!

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I think that horn is off the "normal" route. I remember traversing below and to the left.

 

sounds more like you were off route! hahaha.gif

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1099West_Ridge_Topo.jpg

 

We followed the topo in the Beckey Book. The horn picture is just after the face pitch with fixed pin. Maybe your thinking about the first white horn. Last year I went over that, there was a lodged red cam just below the block. Multiple variation can be done up there, very easy to pass slower groups.

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Nice pictures Collin. I would like to have a party up there, everyone bring a dish to pass. HCL.gif

Edited by EJohnson

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Agreed, very nice pics, Collin! The pic of the two goats at framed beneath the peak is great.

 

It's tough to get a pic of Prusik that hasn't been done a thousand times before.

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