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[TR] Prusik Car-to-Car- West Ridge 3/12/2005


EJohnson

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Climb: Prusik Car-to-Car-West Ridge

 

Date of Climb: 3/12/2005

 

Trip Report:

From Snow Creek Wall on, the trail is compact snow and ice with a nice boot path all the to the west ridge. The southern face & west ridge is bare and dry. Descent ledges are all snow covered, ice axe very handy to get back to the start.

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It doesn't look like winter up there. Snow Creek Wall & descent was bare and dry. All the lakes are still frozen over, but almost everything with southern exposer is melted out. The trail with slabs climbing up to Lake Viviane from Snow Lk are melted.

As for car-to-car time, around 18 hours. Started around 4am and got back around 10pm, very long day. It’s so beautiful up there, we were in no hurry to leave. Many thanks to Jesse, good conversation, sharing his food and carrying the rope.

 

Last year, mid-summer we did round trip in 12 hours. I contribute that to dry trail and summer hiking legs.

 

Looks like winter is back. There’s a snow advisory in effect until Thursday morning with accumulations up to 11 inches above 3000 feet.

 

Erick

Edited by EJohnson
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Hmm . . . Not sure I agree with that . . . . guess it depends on how you do it, but I climbed right where the climber is pictured, all three times I've been on the W Ridge.

 

Reckon it depends on how you define "normal route."

 

Anyway, staying right on or near the ridge crest was more exposed and more exciting for me.

 

Nice work on sending it car to car in march!

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1099West_Ridge_Topo.jpg

 

We followed the topo in the Beckey Book. The horn picture is just after the face pitch with fixed pin. Maybe your thinking about the first white horn. Last year I went over that, there was a lodged red cam just below the block. Multiple variation can be done up there, very easy to pass slower groups.

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