Derby Canyon

[MTNEER]

Hi All,

I am currently working on a Climbing Guide to the sandstone Climbing areas at the center of Washington. Swauk Pinnacles, Mission Creek Canyon and etc. Some of you probably know that The geographic center of Washington in somewhere in Mission Creek Canyon. I am interested in information on Derby Canyon. Anyone climb there? Do you have some information on that area? I would be interested hearing about it.

Thanks

Dale

[EWolfe]

Sandstone? Cool!

 

How about some info on the routes?

 

Trad? Sport?

Length?

Orientation?

Quality of rock?

[Dru]

Is it true the Swauk Pinnacles are named from the sound a rock makes when it hits your belayer "Look out oh my god!!!.....swauk!"

[MCash]

Cool.

 

As long as you're working that area, how about including the basalt columns along the river between Wenatchee and Leavenworth. Perhaps this is Mission Creek or Derby Canyon? I don't know the names.

 

On Squak Pinnacles, are you talking about Peshastin or another area nearby?

[hanman]

The Brooks/Whitelaw guide Washington Rock has some limited info on Derby. I have climbed on a couple of the more prominent features back there. The rock seems less cohesive than Peshastin, more like Swauk. Whisk brooms required . Access to the Canyon was closed (gated) last time I tried, as the Cashmere area forest fires went through.

[MTNEER]

Mission Creek Canyon is the same formation as Peshastin (Chumstick Formation). The are a few multipitch routes and many towers and more slabs. Swauk Pinnacles is on Blewett Pass Generally good stone and some really cool towers.

Missiion Creek Canyon is straight south of Cashmere about 9 miles. Swauk Pinnacles is 2.25 miles west of Blewett pass. From the parking are you have to hike about a quarter of a mile.

In both bolts predominate but there is some trad.

[MTNEER]

"Look out oh my god!!!.....swauk!"

This occures when granite climbers are trying to master the subtle nature of sandstone climbing.

[ScottP]

The Brooks/Whitelaw guide Washington Rock has some limited info on Derby. I have climbed on a couple of the more prominent features back there. The rock seems less cohesive than Peshastin, more like Swauk. Whisk brooms required . Access to the Canyon was closed (gated) last time I tried, as the Cashmere area forest fires went through.

 

"Be sure to carry at least four runners for each route to tie off iron rods."

[robertm]

Does anyone have any info on the Mission Creek Routes? Any good ones out there? Is the rock as "good" as Peshastin?

 

Thanks

[lancegranite]

Just drive up there, it's a nice drive and a number of routes are visible from the road.

Bring camping gear, as Mission Creek is very beautiful, quite a dramitic departure from the surrounding area.

Be sure to honk, as we are now living in Cashmere.