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Posted

I will be in the Rockies at the end of February for 1 week. I have never climbed in the Rockies and wanted to know what waterfall ice routes climbers recommend. Grade 4 is about my max, I was thinking of climbing around canmore. I have the Joe Josephson ice guide but it is very inadequate for a new climber to the Rockies. I will spend a few hours snowshoeing if it is good.

 

Thanks

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Posted
I have the Joe Josephson ice guide but it is very inadequate for a new climber to the Rockies.

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Maybe you should think about taking up a less challenging sport like basket weaving. I hear the guidebooks for that are superb pitty.gif

Posted

If you havent climbed in the Rockies, the grades can be a bit stiffer than elsewhere. But around Canmore, some of the classics are:

 

Cascade (3,beware av hazard), Professors (lots! of 4), Grotto (3) and His and Hers (4). If you do those thats a good introduction to the easiest approached, most popular ice.

 

If you are looking for a real treat and the av conditions permit, I suggest you try Bourgeau Right, its one of the better climbs in the area, and not too sandbagged.

Posted

Thanks Alex

Your info will be usefull.

I hope the other goofs who replied are just a small minority of the climbers in the rockies. I guess localism is expected at a good climbing destination. Same as surfers.

Posted

I am not a new ice climbers, i am new to the rockies

I should be clearer in some of the faults of joes book.

-his maps do not have scale. Yes I know they are only sketches but scale should be on maps. At least he puts the north heading. The maps are somewhat randomly placed.

-Like good guide authers such as Kevin Mclane . joe could have given a short description in the intro about each area. to help select an area.

-I like guides that list route indexs by alphabet and also grade.

His guide is great and very thorough. Its 99% perfect.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

A first season climber here in Bozeman. I assume the Ice Guide in question is "Winter Dance" by Josephson. I've found that guide to be essential to any weekend in Hyalite. An awesome all around book.

Posted
I am not a new ice climbers, i am new to the rockies

I should be clearer in some of the faults of joes book.

-his maps do not have scale. Yes I know they are only sketches but scale should be on maps. At least he puts the north heading. The maps are somewhat randomly placed.

-Like good guide authers such as Kevin Mclane . joe could have given a short description in the intro about each area. to help select an area.

-I like guides that list route indexs by alphabet and also grade.

His guide is great and very thorough. Its 99% perfect.

 

 

Fuck, man, why don't you hire a guide, that way you can take even more adventure out of your climbing trips. All guide books are wrong in places. I've found McClane's data to be erroneous too. Taking some time when you go to a new area to find out where everything is is just part of the deal. rolleyes.gif

Posted
A first season climber here in Bozeman. I assume the Ice Guide in question is "Winter Dance" by Josephson. I've found that guide to be essential to any weekend in Hyalite. An awesome all around book.

 

Guess again. The book that everyone is referring to is "Waterfall Ice: Ice Climbs in the Canadian Rockies" by Mr. Josephson.

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