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The best spray i saw today


Dru

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Q. M10 must be really hard, I've seen the pictures in the magazines. You're just a freak.

 

If you can redpoint endurance 12b/7a+ you can redpoint any M10 with work. Do it with spurs/trickery and if it's steep it's probably M9.. You'll just have to learn how to use the tools and develop new strengths and muscle patterns. Until you learn the techniques M9 can feel really hard even if you can climb 5. 13.

I am a freak.

 

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actually, spray aside, the gadfly is dead right. every generation of climbers redefines the game, finds new ways of overcoming difficulty and challenge (some of which involve technology and/or techniques that "degrade" the experience), and comes to the same conclusion: for climbing to be "worth" anything, it's more important to pay attention to HOW you climb than it is to simply take note of WHAT has been climbed. for someone fully in the centre of the mixed climbing limelight to "come clean" strikes me as a remarkable demonstration of rising beyond ego. this is not quite in the class of Messner proclaiming that bolts are "courage in your rucksack" or that oxygen is aid on 8000m peaks and then "acting out" his beliefs over the following 20 years, but (from the sidelines, cuz i don't climb this kinda stuff) i sure hope gadd's campaign is successful.

 

cheers,

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