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Posted

I need help finding good guidebooks to the Cordillera Blanca region of Peru. Any suggestions on cool routes would be greatly appreciated as well. Rock, Ice, anything that was fuckin' rockin' rockband.gif

Thanks

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Posted

I have Yuraq Janka & The Peruvian Andes (beaud). They're both for sale. I also have "mountaineering in the Andes" which is a bibliography - can copy some pages if you are interested. PM me.

Posted (edited)

I'm getting old and senile but there is a very new book out, just a few years old.like published in '02 or '03? awesome color pics of the rts and current...but i can't remember the damn title right now. it's the one to get, though. shit, it'll come to me... rolleyes.gif

 

i can give you a contact name/email of a peruvian dude who is a pro to deal with if you need muleteers,cooks,porters, transportation to/from trailhead,hotels, bus transport to/from Huaraz. He is insanely cheap and let's you enjoy the climbing instead of dealing w/ bullshit. you need to speak abit of spanish though.

 

Toclaraju and Urus(for acclamitization fun) is good stuff we did. ishinca is a gorgeous peak if you want something mellower than Toc. all peruvian classics accessed by one valley/trailhead.

 

edit: thank you treknclimb! that's it!

 

edit2: my avatar pic is of Toc(in the distance) and the view from my tent. pretty spot.

Edited by griz
Posted

Brad Johnson's book is definately the one to have. That is all I used when I was there last summer and actually, I ended up giving the photocopy of the route description from Johnson's book, to some guys who got lost using the one by that english guy, sherman or something.

Posted

two great books are: The Andes: a Climber's Guide, by John Biggar; and Climbs of the Cordillera Blanca, by David M. Sharman. used them both for my trip, am using them again this year. brad johnson's book looks good too, though haven't used it.

 

as for routes, depends on how good you are. i'm not any kind of great climber, so we concentrated on routes in the paron valley. in this small valley are a couple peaks that go at 60-70 degrees of alpine ice (artesonraju and piramide norte), and the paron peaks (grande and the other one) that are walk ups. the area is a good warmup for bigger plans if you are going to be there awhile, and the glacier is only about 6 miles from where the taxi drops you off. not too crowded in the paron, which is nice.

 

have a great time.

Posted

there are some good spanish language ones too, but the names escape me. I think there is one by Juanjo Tome - which is OK, but should be cross-referenced as in some cases his descriptions are out of date for the deterioration of ice faces and glaciers.

 

supposedly Elaho will be publishing a guide to the Cordillera Huayhuash in the near future too.

 

www.cosleyhouston.com is a good resource for pretty pictures, ideas etc. . They guide there every year.

Posted

Got a PM asking for the contact info so I figured I'd just post it. You can email him in english and I think he has someone translate it for him.

 

Kallpa Expeditions in Huaraz - Rodolfo is the dude. <info@peruviantrek.com>

 

good luck and I'm jealous, bitches.

Posted
Don't know about guidebooks... but Huaraz is the shiznit if you're looking for a basecamp. Check out the Vagamundo Bar... you'll never want to leave.

bigdrink.gif

i second that. vagamundo for president! stay away from the tambo if you're trying for an alpine start.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Same question, but for Bolivia.. Is Yossi Brain's book the best? I think I used his Ecuador guide and found it kind of rudimentary.

 

Also, can you suggest any good climbing/travel narratives for the Andes? Something to just fuel the stoke?

 

thanks

  • 1 month later...
Posted

The Yossi Brain book is kinda thin, kinda lame. Check out Alain Mesili's book "The Andes of Bolivia". The first version was only in espanol (Los Andes de Bolivia), this second one in english. The new version has lots more updates, great pics, and more routes than you can shake a stick at. He's a french guy (?) that's been living in Bolivia since the 70s or so and has put up tons of first ascents. He's the Fred Beckey of Bolivia. I used the book when I went and found it very useful.

  • 2 months later...
Posted
supposedly Elaho will be publishing a guide to the Cordillera Huayhuash in the near future too.

 

This guidebook is now out. A Guide to Climbing and Trekking in the Cordillera Huayhuash of Peru, authored by Jeremy Frimer. Lots of awesome photos.

  • 8 months later...
Posted
This guidebook is now out. A Guide to Climbing and Trekking in the Cordillera Huayhuash of Peru, authored by Jeremy Frimer. Lots of awesome photos.

 

confused.gif Is it actually available, or some ephemeral dream?

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