Alpinfox Posted January 18, 2005 Posted January 18, 2005 Climb: Hope Ice-Jah Loveth the Leftists Date of Climb: 1/14/2005 Trip Report: Fern, SpecialED, and I met in Hope on Friday morning and went looking for some ice to climb. Since we were getting a late start due to some route finding errors made by the Americans on the team, we wanted something pretty close. "Jah Loveth the Righteous", sounded like just the ticket, so off we went. We parked on the south side of Hwy1 next to a paintball place and hiked for about 15-20 minutes up a mountian biking trail (complete with rails and jumps and all that stuff) to the base of a gully which forked left and right. Having left the guidebook in the car, we couldn't remember which way we were supposed to go, but there was obviously ice in the left hand fork, so we went that way. Fern led the first pitch which consisted of about 35m of WI3. A bit of hiking and scrambling through talus and punching through the ice into the creek in a couple of spots led us to a fairly short WI3 step with funky "artichoke ice" below a large chockstone. I think it was between the 2nd and 3rd ice steps that we detoured out of the gully proper up into the forest on the climber's left side to bypass some large rocks. The 3rd ice step was a thin smear in an awkward rocky corner that SpecialEd led after clipping a stubby screw that was only halfway sunken into the glorified verglass covering the rock. edit: (the "Missing Pitch") After surmounting this obstacle we climbed through a short but steep and delicate ice curtain in a narrow constriction of the gully. 25m, WI3+. Nice lead Fern! The fifth and final pitch we climbed was a steep ice slab with a 4-5m column at the top making for a fairly sustained 45-50m pitch. SpecialEd led this and rated it WI4. There was another 20-25m of ice above, but due to the lateness of the day, we decided to head down. After getting back to the car and consulting the guidebook, we saw that "Jah Loveth the Righteous" ascends the gully on the right , so we did a route that wasn't in the guidebook. If its a new route, we'll call it "Jah Loveth the Leftists". That night we stayed at the Swiss Chalet which sucked due to tepid shower and feeble heat in the room. For the same price, a few other Seattlite cc.comers got a room with blazing hot showers and fireplace, so we hung out in their room a bit. The next night we stayed at the "Town Hotel" (or something) across the street from the Swiss Chalet and it was much better (Jacuzzi, Pool, Kitchenette! ). On Saturday Fern and I climbed some four pitch thing to the right of Bridal Falls while SpecialEd went off on a soloing adventure. I led the first two pitches (WI2+/3ish and Fern led the last two WI3/3+). On Sunday we went back to try to climb "Jah Loveth the Righteous", but there was very little ice in the gully, so we did a lot more talus hiking than climbing and never did break out the ropes. It then started raining, so we went to a "beer parlour" (Canadian for "pub") and watched football. It sure was nice to get some ice climbing in without having to drive all the way to Lillooet - I wish that stuff formed up more often. Thanks SpecialEd and Fern for a great weekend! Gear Notes: According to SpecialEd, my straight-shafted X15s are "scary". Need new tools. On the other hand, my new CM Grade 8 monopoint crampons and La Sportiva Nepal Extreme boots rocked! Thanks North Face sale! Quote
fern Posted January 18, 2005 Posted January 18, 2005 dude your description is missing a pitch. It was a fun climb. Quote
olyclimber Posted January 18, 2005 Posted January 18, 2005 Last time I went cragging with an American we spent some time looking for a climb as well. Must be some national disfunctionality. Jolly good work chaps! Pax, I have a bent shaft shrike set you can borrow next time if you haven't made the big purchase. Quote
olyclimber Posted January 18, 2005 Posted January 18, 2005 (edited) In the future, please stop making fun of me! Edited January 18, 2005 by olyclimber Quote
Dru Posted January 18, 2005 Posted January 18, 2005 the last time someone double posted i made fun of them too Quote
Dru Posted January 18, 2005 Posted January 18, 2005 hey pax which bar did you go to - the silver chalice? Quote
Alpinfox Posted January 18, 2005 Author Posted January 18, 2005 No, someone told us about the silver chalice, but we weren't sure where it was, so we went to the first bar we came across which ended up being in a hotel on the main drag. I don't know the name, but it was a mecca for KENO and pulltabs. Poor suckers. The bartendress was quite a cutie, which I think keeps the local guys coming back Quote
Dru Posted January 18, 2005 Posted January 18, 2005 The Silver Chalice is right across from Skinny's Grille and the road to Cruel Pools, and is the place to go. Largest Winchester Rifle collection in BC! Quote
cj001f Posted January 18, 2005 Posted January 18, 2005 Do any of the bars stay open later than 11pm? Quote
Dru Posted January 18, 2005 Posted January 18, 2005 Depends on if the Stanley Cup playoffs go into triple sudden death overtime or not. Quote
olyclimber Posted January 18, 2005 Posted January 18, 2005 Which means that the town shuts down at sun down during an NHL lockout. Quote
Dru Posted January 23, 2005 Posted January 23, 2005 Here is a photo topo for BV Falls (all water today) Red is "Decent Divorce" WI4/4+ left of Never a Bride Yellow is NAB Green is Bridal Falls itself Blue is "Right of Bridal Falls" WI3+ Purple is White Wedding. Just checking but Pax or Fern what you guys climbed was the blue line, not White Wedding - yes? Quote
Alpinfox Posted January 23, 2005 Author Posted January 23, 2005 Yes, I'm pretty sure we climbed the blue line. In other news, I heard recently that "Jah Loveth the Leftists" recieved another ascent on Saturday (the day after we climbed it). Apparently the climbers were headed to "Jah Loveth the Righteous" but followed our tracks to the obvious ice. Quote
Farrgo Posted January 23, 2005 Posted January 23, 2005 Ya, me and my buddy Tim went up to do JLT rightous the day after you guys. too bad we hadn't gone a couple days earlier or we probably would have gotten the FA. the ice on the leftist was definately more appealing than to the right. just out of curiosity, did anyone ever go check out JLT rightous? As it appeared from below, i don't think it touched down?? Quote
Don_Serl Posted January 23, 2005 Posted January 23, 2005 A bit of hiking and scrambling through talus and punching through the ice into the creek in a couple of spots led us to a fairly short WI3 step with funky "artichoke ice" below a large chockstone. that chockstone has got to be the most amazing feature on any ice route in SWBC - well, maybe with the exception of the ice itself on Shreddie, the Theft, and Kryptonite. let's hope (weak, bad pun...) the route comes in again - certainly would be on my "must-do" list! (beside, I'm way more favourably inclined towards "leftists" than the "righteous") cheers, Quote
Alpinfox Posted January 23, 2005 Author Posted January 23, 2005 just out of curiosity, did anyone ever go check out JLT rightous? As it appeared from below, i don't think it touched down?? We checked out JLTR on Sunday and did a lot of scrambling up snow-covered talus and bashing through devil's club and alder. We got all the way into the back of the gully and then it started raining, but we never found any ice worth breaking out the rope for. Quote
fern Posted January 24, 2005 Posted January 24, 2005 that chockstone has got to be the most amazing feature on any ice route in SWBC - well, maybe with the exception of the ice itself on Shreddie, the Theft, and Kryptonite. I dunno, climbing through the natural water worn granite arches on Echo Magic would be amazing too. How far up the canyon did you go masternate? any farther than us? Quote
Don_Serl Posted January 24, 2005 Posted January 24, 2005 I dunno, climbing through the natural water worn granite arches on Echo Magic would be amazing too. too true; it got consideration, but the chockstone is HUGE! (come to think of it, maybe THE most amazing ice feature in SWBC is the fact that ice forms at ALL!) cheers, Quote
Dru Posted January 24, 2005 Posted January 24, 2005 the natural water worn granite arches on Echo Magic yeah they is pretty cool even in summer According to Don's guide this is a WI2 pitch in winter. It's too bad according to Adrians site that Monmouth did not freeze up even in the most recent cold snap. Quote
Farrgo Posted January 24, 2005 Posted January 24, 2005 fern, we ended same place as you. i took a look at the last curtain short curtain visible from the top of the wi4 pitch, the ice was super brittle and we had run out of daylight. so we called it a day. i didn't realize that the ice went further than that, you guys saw some above that? Quote
fern Posted January 24, 2005 Posted January 24, 2005 I think there may have been a few more steps up the main drainage, can't say if they would have been climbable. Quote
Alpinfox Posted December 1, 2006 Author Posted December 1, 2006 (edited) BUMP! I wish I could go climb JLTL tomorrow! Sounds like it's probably in right now, but warmer weather is on the way for the weekend. GITTERDUN!!! edit: Hey Dru, can you repost the Bridal Veil area topo picture? It doesn't seem to be attached anymore. Edited December 1, 2006 by Alpinfox Quote
olyclimber Posted December 1, 2006 Posted December 1, 2006 works now dru, so just relax for now Quote
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