JoshK Posted October 17, 2002 Share Posted October 17, 2002 Dru, you're right, and I definitely wouldn't rely solely on anything anybody posted on here. At times, however, info I have gotten on here has been helpful. In reality, our decision on the price was actually more than lack of beta, I probably just didnt' feel like typing it out (ironic, considering I am now. ) The one piece of beta I have got for the price (numerous times) is that good visibility is *really* important due to the inherent route finding on the icefall and the need to see far ahead. With the weather on Sunday looking possibly iffy I would rather (yes, this may sound crazy) get pummeled on an exposed traverse than somewhere part way up the price glacier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted October 17, 2002 Author Share Posted October 17, 2002 Doh...meant "matt, you're right" Also, Dru, thanks for the beta. Glad to hear it's so easy, we're gonna go for it and just use tennis shoes ta'boot. :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted October 17, 2002 Share Posted October 17, 2002 JoshK, if I can offer you some advice, I would say go for it. Take the SE face over the S Ridge, the glacier should be passable still, its very mellow. If anything stops you it will be the moat at the start of the SE Face. It will be burly. How you do on the SE Face dictates whether you climb Torment only, or do the traverse. Take some crampons as there might be spots of ice that high up now, though there isnt much snowmelt on the route itself. If you are fast and start really early you *could* climb most of the traverse the first day. We were not fast enought and didnt start early enough (in August, which should give you a big hint) but could have made real progress if we hadnt gotten shat on. Torment is a great climb any way you cut it, go out and have fun. Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted October 17, 2002 Share Posted October 17, 2002 D'oh! At first glance, the Doctor thought the title of this thread was "Torment-Ridden Traverse." Figured it was a new Marc Twight route or something ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 17, 2002 Share Posted October 17, 2002 If it rains it would be a torrent-ridden traverse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted October 17, 2002 Author Share Posted October 17, 2002 If we do it...and it starts raining...there is going to be a lot of swearing. I think a non-climber friend of mine summed it up best: "why the hell would you want to climb 2 mountains called 'torment' and 'forbidden'. That sounds stupid" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted October 17, 2002 Share Posted October 17, 2002 Torrement-Forbidden is prone to lightning strikes. That's my beta. Oh yea, and Colin told me he wished he had brought two ice tools for the ice traverse. That's Colin's beta. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_Clarke Posted October 17, 2002 Share Posted October 17, 2002 I soled the route in early august, I second the recommendation on the two tools, it may not be dicey scarey climbing in those sections but it helps to stay confident. Light and fast will help, but keep in mind the shorter days. The appraoch is a grunt. Have fun. [ 10-17-2002, 03:24 PM: Message edited by: Ropegun2002 ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted October 17, 2002 Author Share Posted October 17, 2002 Hrmm, I was debating between tennies+rock shoes and boots. From your description, ropegun, it sounds like I might want the boots so I can actually get my toe in to the ice.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted October 17, 2002 Author Share Posted October 17, 2002 BTW, ropegun, where along the traverse were you able to find water? That's one concern I have being so late season... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted October 18, 2002 Author Share Posted October 18, 2002 has anybody done it this year? Most recent post i saw was from alex & dps when they got thundered and hailed on. Due to lack of recent beta I think we're gonna bail on trying price glacier this WE. It's down to either this traverse or dome peak (both summits) and sinister NF. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted October 18, 2002 Share Posted October 18, 2002 quote: Originally posted by JoshK: Due to lack of recent beta I think we're gonna bail on trying price glacier this WE. Dude - I think you may be relying too much on the availability of "beta." If someone on cc.com had posted that they were there last week, and the route was a no-go because of a big crevasse that blocked the route, would you have taken this as gospel and decided not to go? How would you know that they weren't gapers or had not just taken a wrong turn somewhere or something? Conversely, what if they said that they climbed it last weekend and it was awesome, and that the key to the climb was taking the low traverse even though from below the higher traverse, above the large crevasses at mid-height, looked better. And waht if they also said that no rock gear is needed because it is doable all on the ice. Would you rely on that assessment, either? You are eyeballing some good climbs and the weather forecast is (currently) looking good. Go out there and have fun and rely on your own judgment rather than some unknown stranger you meet on the internet!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 18, 2002 Share Posted October 18, 2002 Its an easy solo right now with no gear or helmet required I suggest you go do it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted October 18, 2002 Share Posted October 18, 2002 Perhaps I should clarify, and say that I'm not critical of someone who asks for beta but, rather, I'm suggesting caution in basing your decisions on someone else's "beta." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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