tomtom Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 are aid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 Liberty Crack  Pitch 4... right? If so... looks like somebody aided it or is a serious seamstress... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomtom Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 Pitch 4... right? If so... looks like somebody aided it or is a serious seamstress... Â Pitch 3. Aid for me. Â But I'll also admit to sewing things up when it's a long way down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chelle Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 Pitch 3 or 4 on the Prow? Nice photo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomtom Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 3/4th the way up Pitch 5. Nice view from there. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 I'm famous! Â I'm on the wall in the center with the light brown fleece. Â Are you the one that looks like you are practicing taking a dump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squid Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 Â Â this is a beautiful shot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 1) Why are you using a locking biner on an aider? 2) Why not clip the aider biner directly to the bolt instead of doing this funky biner-to biner clip and having the gate open? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 Post deleted by DirtyHarry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 Liberty Crack   Everybody has this photo (usually with a lot less gear and minus the haulbag though) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomtom Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 1) Why are you using a locking biner on an aider? 2) Why not clip the aider biner directly to the bolt instead of doing this funky biner-to biner clip and having the gate open? Â Personal preference. Â I have both my aider and adjustable daisy on the locking biner in a two aider system. In moving, I clip a free biner to the piece (or bolt) and clip the locker/aider/daisy to the biner. Then I bounce, get on that aider, and then move the second locker/aider/daisy to the free biner. This keeps the two aiders vertically aligned and allows me to move either the left or right l/a/d to the next piece. I'll lock the biners at anchors at the end of pitches. Â Other people use different systems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 1) Why are you using a locking biner on an aider? 2) Why not clip the aider biner directly to the bolt instead of doing this funky biner-to biner clip and having the gate open? Â Personal preference. Â I have both my aider and adjustable daisy on the locking biner in a two aider system. In moving, I clip a free biner to the piece (or bolt) and clip the locker/aider/daisy to the biner. Then I bounce, get on that aider, and then move the second locker/aider/daisy to the free biner. This keeps the two aiders vertically aligned and allows me to move either the left or right l/a/d to the next piece. I'll lock the biners at anchors at the end of pitches. Â Other people use different systems. Â That works for sure but why not save some wear and tear on your locker and get more reach for the next placement (you are higher above your piece if your aider is clipped into the top biner) by keeping the locker on your harness until you hit the belay? I think this would speed you up some and not have to deal with open gates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted December 16, 2004 Author Share Posted December 16, 2004 quit talking about climbing, this isn't a climbing website...oh wait, it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squid Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 Everybody has this photo (usually with a lot less gear and minus the haulbag though) Â Whatever. Â He wasn't nominating it for Alpinist 10 - he's just showing that he put that Mountie training to use. Â As much as they are fun to tease about stunts like dirt-rappeling, they deserve credit for giving him the training to get up Liberty Crack. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 My first time up l. crack we bogged down and ended up sleeping on the "bivy ledge" at the top of 5 and promptly bailed the next day. The next time I was hit by falling snow. Made it my third attempt... Â Mad props to anybody getting out and climbing something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ireneo_Funes Posted December 16, 2004 Share Posted December 16, 2004 Everybody has this photo (usually with a lot less gear and minus the haulbag though) Â Whatever. Â He wasn't nominating it for Alpinist 10 - he's just showing that he put that Mountie training to use. Â As much as they are fun to tease about stunts like dirt-rappeling, they deserve credit for giving him the training to get up Liberty Crack. Â Â What Squid said. Good job, tomtom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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