[TR] Mt. Hood- Devils Kitchen Headwall (1d variation) 11/20/2004

[Chad_A]

Climb: Mt. Hood-Devils Kitchen Headwall (1d variation)

 

Date of Climb: 11/20/2004

 

Trip Report:

I'd never climbed with Justin before, and we'd planned a suss-out climb to see where we were at; I thought about something quick and dirty on the South Side, but I wanted to avoid the anticipated crowds on the Hogsback. So, variations 1c and 1d in Oregon High seemed harmless enough.

 

We ended up in 1d, when I decided to leave my stronger headlamp at home, in favor of my lighter Tikka. On top of that, I didn't expect the traverse to go so quickly, so there we were. I started up quickly, and yes, as it says it's 55-60 degrees. Justin was a bit behind, sorting his pack out.

 

The gully was mostly ice, with some unconsolidated snow. Now, mind you, variation 1c and 1d are described as gullies, and nothing more. No information is given on what lies ahead once one tops out.

 

I had figured incorrectly, that it would go with reasonably gentle slopes up to the summit. This was not true. I recoiled in shock when I arrived at a knife edge, staring at Wy'east to my right, and Cooper Spur to my left. Damn. Lesson learned; look at a topo, to figure out where a route tops out, and what lies between the summit and your position.

 

At any rate, I awaited Justin's arrival, and tried to figure out what to do. The slopes to the right (east) seemed reasonably gentle, but were new, unconsolidated powder, and had an awful sound to them when you sunk a tool into them.

 

I reasoned that it would be best to stick to the windward slopes at that point, and we stuck close, as we simul soloed; I had some screws and an 8.5mm, but no rock gear, save for a few slings, and some possible horns were protruding, but not consistently enough to warrant roping up. Ice was non-existant, once we were on the ridge. I decided that I wasn't roping up for this one, no way.

 

I grovelled (yes, I'm not afraid to say it...I was too chicken to stand up on two feet) along the rotten powder ridge, until able to get on the windward slopes, and was soon blocked by rock outcropping; I had to descend and traverse under. Soon after, I saw another place above on the ridge to get a view of where we were at (follow the red line; it's where it goes back up to the ridge, and drops down). At that point, I could see landmarks from when we did the left gully on the North Face the week before; if I could get down there, I'd get us to the summit quickly, but it was a greatly precipitous drop, and wasn't feasable. Again, I dropped down, and traversed under more rock.

 

Sorry about the blurry pic (the wind was blowing the camera all over the place); here's one of Justin making his way across the headwall.

 

The traverse ended up being longer than I anticipated, and soon I was wondering if we were just going to end up traversing to the Hogsback/Pearly Gate area. As I thought that, a notch in a rib led me to downclimb into gully "1c". After I topped out above this gully, I took a pic.

 

I kept Justin within eyesight, and I communitcated my intentions. I climbed up into the gully, and it was obvious that the summit slopes lie ahead. It was fun climbing, with nice blue ice sections here and there. He took a break a bit lower in the gully, before getting into the ice. I chilled at the summit (literally), and awaited his arrival. As soon as I saw him on his way to the summit, I knew he was safe and ok, we agreed to meet down at the car.

 

Has anyone else here done 1d? Just curious. Some of the downclimbing and traversing was a bit hairy. At any rate, I figured I'd share this info, in case anyone ever ends up doing this route.

 

Gear Notes:

Had: rope, second tools, screws, and slings/carabiners.

 

Would've used the rope if I'd had rock gear (maybe? there was some exposed rock, but then again, with the exposure involved, I wasn't exactly paying attention to the quality of the protection to be had.)

 

Approach Notes:

Nice cramponing up the Palmer.

[iain]

I think the money pitch on DKHW is that dark notch way to the left of where you went up. Your red line is a variation that puts you looking over the wy'east chimney, plenty of fun. It can be sketchy traversing over above that chimney. If you go up the notch far to the left of your red line, and keep going straight up, it dumps you right on the summit. It can be quite steep there though, and thin down low. You can sneak into it from the left.

 

BTW that was me with the skis at the bergschrund. nice work staying alive

[skyclimb]

I am envious. Great job getting your kicks in

[rbw1966]

Way to get on it boyz. I'm sitting in my friggin officeon a sunday and drooling.

 

Kill me.

[Hal_Burton]

Was that Justin who,um, "came down quickly" from about the shrund to the Devil's Kitchen area?

[iain]

Beer at the Ram's Head: $6

 

Finding out your "partner" fell on the climb while you were at the Ram's Head: priceless

[Chad_A]

Beer at the Ram's Head: $6

 

Finding out your "partner" fell on the climb while you were at the Ram's Head: priceless

 

And you're saying? If you're insinuating I was at the bar when I found out he'd taken a slip, that's a pisspoor, pointed statement.

 

 

[snodger]

I think the money pitch on DKHW is that dark notch way to the left of where you went up. ...

 

So did anyone get a look into the '1c' gully?

 

After reading of the recent activity on the north face over the last few weeks, I was wondering how much ice there might be in there. It's sure a fun way to finish off the south side.

[Chad_A]

It was what we originally planned on climbing, but we bypassed it on accident in the dark. 1d had some exposed rock in it as well, but it was easily bypassed on snow and ice around it; who knows, but 1c might have a bit of the same.

 

That's why we wanted to do it; just an alternate finish on the south side. Didn't plan on doing what we did, for sure.

[rbw1966]

Beer at the Ram's Head: $6

 

Finding out your "partner" fell on the climb while you were at the Ram's Head: priceless

 

And you're saying? If you're insinuating I was at the bar when I found out he'd taken a slip, that's a pisspoor, pointed statement.

 

 

Ok, so just out of curiousity, where were you when you heard he had taken a digger?

[b-rock]

... in the parking lot.

 

For those of you who are climbing alone and do take a digger and end up ok - stand up and wave instead of looking dumbfounded. Otherwise folks may think you are hurt and feel compelled to go out of their way to check on you when it is not necessary. Thank you.

[rbw1966]

... in the parking lot.

 

For those of you who are climbing alone and do take a digger and end up ok - stand up and wave instead of looking dumbfounded. Otherwise folks may think you are hurt and feel compelled to go out of their way to check on you when it is not necessary. Thank you.

 

[ivan]

i took a nice big fall y-day from the top of the w crater rim...took off my crampons after they started balling badly in deep snow; discovered a few minutes later that there was ice under it all and i couldn't stand w/o the cramps. put both my tools in and clipped to them and started putting my left crampon on when suddenly i was flying downhill, headfirst. amazingly i was able to grab my bouncing, gyrating axe from the daisy chain and after a few hundred feet, shortly before getting launched into the fumarole, i was able to stop.

 

of course there were plenty of folks watching. i waved. but, w/o crampons (they were way uphill) i couldn't easily reclimb the icy slope. i asked for help recovering my spikes. the 4 closest (about 50 yards away) said they'd stop by on their way down from the summit....

 

now maybe if i was all bloody...

[iain]

jeezus, guess all the "action" happened later. how was the snow you were falling on? inquiring skis want to know turns from the schrund down were sweet. Deceptive snow loading there, as the previous storm came in strong from the west, loading the east sides, then an east wind kicked in and built a small cornice on the west (now lee) slope of the hogsback.

[ivan]

i emerged from the reid headwall (which was icy as all hell) onto the warm, sunny upper part of the w crater. i stayed on the ridge, workign my way just below the big rime crusted towere, to about 400 feet below the summit where the snow was wet n' sloppy to about 8 inches, below which was solid ice. the whole w facing slope appeared to be the same and could only be reclimbed sans crampons by laboriously cutting in steps.

 

i saw several folks carrying their skiis downhill y-day. indeed the walk of shame.

[b-rock]

Yikes, glad you are alright Ivan! I'm always happy to change my plans and help a brother out if a brother needs help.

 

Skiing looked sweet Saturday. Can't believe I made the call that it would be shite and left the planks at home.

[iain]

Sounds like w. crater rim was wind-loaded, packed, glopped, and primed for a slide on that ice. Glad I was not skiing over there, and that you walked away from that fall (and did not trigger anything).

[b-rock]

Someone skied the WCR out of the Old Chute on Saturday. I'd agree that it looked pretty loaded.

[iain]

left the planks at home.

 

wowowoah stop the presses...you went up hood, sans skis, by choice?

 

 

[b-rock]

 

Hey, we all make mistakes

[Justin_RR]

Justin -He Who Fell- here. On all the future falls I'm planning, I'll be sure to wave...you're right, it's a nice consideration for would-be rescuers, b-rock, something I usually do when I get hit by cars on my bike

 

And just to clarify, you guys, vw4ever was just a bit below me on the route, not at the parking lot when I fell (I'm not _that_ slow). That's why I have my whistle

 

-Justin

[fourteenfour]

looks legit