Shasta in May

[KaskadskyjKozak]

 

As I understand it, the weather in Shasta typically stabilizes in June. I'm considering a memorial day climb (walk-up, Avalanche gulch). What are route and weather conditions like at this time of year? How crowded is the trail up?

[layton]

why did i get an email from you from garth? who be you?

[Bill_Simpkins]

If you want to avoid the crowds take the Clear Creek Route. The route is non-technical and can be done in a day pretty easily. Just crampons and ice axe are needed.

I did it in June and there was a lot of good glissading on the way down.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

If you want to avoid the crowds take the Clear Creek Route. The route is non-technical and can be done in a day pretty easily. Just crampons and ice axe are needed.

I did it in June and there was a lot of good glissading on the way down.

 

Are there any (road) access issues that early in the season? I do not have a 4WD vehicle. I believe that route is on the other side of the mountain (N side?).

[Alex]

What bill said. There arent any road issues, late may is already pretty "late" for Northern Cali. The road goes to 7000 ft elevation for the Av Gulch route, which seems high for us here, but its pretty arid and warm there near Shasta, shouldt be an issue.

[markharf]

Actually, the Clear Creek trailhead (southeast side) is usually not quite melted out by late May. Expect an added mile or more road-walking in a normal snow year. It's still doable in a day, and it'll definitely be less crowded than Avalanche Gulch. Brewer Creek (east side) will probably involve walking a few miles up the road to the trailhead, but it's another nice alternative. The north side trailhead tends to melt out earlier.

 

Late May is getting a bit late for skiing Avalanche Gulch, but it's probably fine for climbing. All of the above routes are basically long uphill trudges followed by long downhill slogs. Skis make the whole process worthwhile.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

Actually, the Clear Creek trailhead (southeast side) is usually not quite melted out by late May. Expect an added mile or more road-walking in a normal snow year. It's still doable in a day, and it'll definitely be less crowded than Avalanche Gulch.

 

Thanks, I'll consider this option. I'd like to allow 2 days for the climb though. The purpose of the trip is to get to altitude on a non-technical climb, and see how I do. I've been at 12,000+ feet twice. The first time I just had a headache at the summit (Adams) and puked back at basecamp. The second time I had to stop and turn back (Rainier).

 

Is there a decent high camp on the Clear Creek route?

[Bill_Simpkins]

Since I didn't camp, all I remember is seeing some spots in the rock around 10000 feet (I think). I heard theres a spot by, is it Cadillac Rock(?)(the big pink rock), around 11,000 feet?

[JoeMack]

I went up the Clear Creek route during Memorial Day this year. We did have to park about a mile from the trailhead due to snow. We camped at about the 9500 ft level. We found a dry spot that was level. As Markharf suggests, skiing makes the slog worthwhile.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

As Markharf suggests, skiing makes the slog worthwhile.

 

I'm only an intermediate downhill skiier and generally stick to groomed trails. What level of skill is required to ski this route? Are you skiing all the way from the summit?

[JoeMack]

I skied from just below the summit plug. I would consider the level of difficulty on that side to be similar to a tougher blue/easier black slope at a ski resort. The tricky part is the conditions. You could get ice, or mashed potato mush, or sweet corn or all of the above. If you've never backcountry skied before, it might be a good idea to try some day trips to other hills this winter and spring before you decide.

[markharf]

I'm only an intermediate downhill skiier and generally stick to groomed trails. What level of skill is required to ski this route?

 

Time the conditions right and you'll feel like a hero. An hour too early or too late in the day and you'll want to give up skiing forever; too late in the season and you'll face thousands of feet of shingles followed by thousands more of knee-deep suncups and runnels. That aside, JoeMack's estimate of difficulty sounds good to me, at least for Clear Creek. Brewer Creek and Avalanche Gulch (and Hidden Valley, so I hear) routes have steeper sections, but nothing terribly threatening.

 

If you're determined not to puke, spend a day or two at 5000 feet before climbing.

 

Hope that helps.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

Time the conditions right and you'll feel like a hero. An hour too early or too late in the day and you'll want to give up skiing forever; too late in the season and you'll face thousands of feet of shingles followed by thousands more of knee-deep suncups and runnels. That aside, JoeMack's estimate of difficulty sounds good to me, at least for Clear Creek. Brewer Creek and Avalanche Gulch (and Hidden Valley, so I hear) routes have steeper sections, but nothing terribly threatening.

 

Cool, thanks.

 

If you're determined not to puke, spend a day or two at 5000 feet before climbing.

 

Puking is alright, it's getting stopped in my tracks that I want to avoid. I plan to spend the first night at the TH, and spend at least 12 hours at high camp.

[rhyang]

One thing I was advised to do, that seemed to work well for me is going for an 'acclimatization hike' the day before. I spent a night at Horse Camp, then went up to Hidden Valley and climbed up to the Shasta-Shastina saddle at 12k' the first day, then Shasta the next via avy gulch. I was winded of course but no ams. Maybe just climbing up above 11k' slowly and coming back down a day before doing the whole thing would work for you ...

[Alpinfox]

A nice thing about the clear creek route is that with the predominant wind coming from the west, you may be somewhat sheltered from the full force of the wind. When I climbed the CC route (late June), we didn't see anyone else on our route and we were nice and cozy in wind shirts until we got to the summit block where we had to don our shells and insulating layers against the blasting wind. When we got to the summit there were lots and lots of shivering folks wearing gore-tex, balacalavas, big mittens etc that had come up the AG route.

 

So, CC route = fewer people and potentially warmer conditions, but you have to drive further.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

Any recommendations on resources for detailed route descriptions? I've done lots of web searches, and not found too much info except for the AG route.

 

So, CC route = fewer people and potentially warmer conditions, but you have to drive further.

 

How much further? An hour or two?

[markharf]

You sure like to prepare in advance. Try The Mt. Shasta Book (Selters & Zanger). Costs 12 bucks at Amazon, and includes a good map.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

You sure like to prepare in advance.

 

It's the November doldurms.

 

Try The Mt. Shasta Book (Selters & Zanger). Costs 12 bucks at Amazon, and includes a good map.

 

Cool, thanks.

[Bill_Simpkins]

 

Puking is alright, it's getting stopped in my tracks that I want to avoid. I plan to spend the first night at the TH, and spend at least 12 hours at high camp.

 

You can bang out the whole climb in 10-12 hours if you want. Then go climb something else.

We got up and down before we puked. We just felt a little weezy at the top then fine after we started going back down. We left the car around 1 am and got back around noon, then drove to Lassen, then Tahoe, same day. We weren't in really good shape then either. We didn't feel rushed at all. Took a couple good breaks and enjoyed everything around us.

But, if you want to huff all that gear up there, I guess you'll have more time on that beautiful mountain. Nothing wrong with that!

Gear=tennis shoes, ice axe, crampons, water, jacket, hat, gloves, headlamp, first aid and candybars.

That was in June. In May I'd wear boots and gaitors and bring another layer of clothing.

 

 

 

 

 

[Alpinfox]

if you want to huff all that gear up there, I guess you'll have more time on that beautiful mountain. Nothing wrong with that!

 

I camped on the mountain and enjoyed it. Saw a pine martin and did quite a bit of trundling . It was a nice place to hang out and I hoped we'd get to see some of the UFOs that live in the mountain, but no such luck.

 

Gear=tennis shoes, ice axe, crampons, water, jacket, hat, gloves, headlamp, first aid and candybars.

That was in June. In May I'd wear boots and gaitors and bring another layer of clothing.

 

When I hiked the route in late June a few years ago, this gear would not have allowed one to get to the summit - it was too cold and windy. A decent insulating layer, warm hat, gloves, and good wind shells were required for the upper reaches of the mtn due to wind.

 

I don't know exactly how much more driving the CC route requires vs the AG route, but my guess is 1.5-2 hours. I have "Climbing the Cascade Volcanoes" that provided servicable driving directions, but I don't have it with me right now. I think it's worth the extra driving.

[Couloir]

"tennis shoes"

 

I've been part of SAR teams where the people we were searching for had equipped themselves in this fashion. I don't recommend it. Not that there weren't underlying circumstances affecting this rescue, but traveling this way on a 14,000 peak...even Mt. Shasta in June is foolish.

[Zoran]

I would like to ski Shasta and Lassen in early June (in 7 days window, including drive from Vancouver BC). I hope there will be enough snow and I am looking forward to see the mountains

Z

Edited December 27, 2004 by Zoran

[Double_E]

anyone go up the Clear Creek or Avy Gulch routes lately?

 

 

also, any chronic Shasta climbers have any "predictive beta" on what those routes will be like the first week in August? I actually just called the Avalanche and Climbing Advisory number, from this site ..... VERY COOL how detailed of a report the message gives you!!!! for instance, road to Clear Creek TH is currently about 1/2 mile snowed in. anyway, was wondering if anyone else had 2 cents to add.

[markharf]

anyone go up the Clear Creek or Avy Gulch routes lately?

 

http://www.turns-all-year.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=tr0507;action=display;num=1120496928

[Double_E]

thanks.. yeah, I keep forgetting about TAY.com. great site. ...um.. unless I'm much mistaken tho (have jussst started the scoping/map work on it all) ... the Hotlum/Wintum route isn't the same as either route I mentioned. looks like CC might sorta skirt the edge of the Wintum Glacier tho..(?)

 

hey another thing,.. anyone know... between CC and AG, which is gonna offer the better glissading??