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Posted

is it a good idea to buy used gear from guiding companies who have rented it to hundreds of users before you. Specifically:

 

1. Mountaineering Crampons: Yes or No?

2. Down Clothing/Sleeping Bags: Yes or No?

3. Double Plastic Boots with liner: Yes or No?

 

Thanks for any help.

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Posted

1. Inspect flex points and point length (front points generally get the most sharpening)… should be fine assuming no appearance of metal fatigue at flex points and most of all points remain.

2. Inspect for poop/pee stains and general funk... should be fine. If down is shot you can always send it to someone for a refluff (new down)… while its there have them remove the zipper.

3. Yes but check liner: see if packed out (insulation has been compressed repeatively so appears flattened)... if so will need replaced. Check lace holes/eyelets... boots that sport metal eyelets are know to lose those eyelets at inopportune times. Check stitching points for tongue, etc… stitching coming out? Check boot sole: need a resole?

 

Generally you have to buy the spot and returns are not an option so if possible make the seller call the manufactor to ensure that they still make the replacement items (boot liner)… or carry the phone numbers with you.

 

Another great place to shop for boots is here and REI scratch and dent sales.

Posted

I bought a used pair of crampons for a fraction of retail and they have been great. Many of the new crampons have replacement front points available.

 

I had a 10 year old down sweater with a broken zipper. The manufacturer replaced the zipper and re-stuffed the down for free. It had a life time warrenty. Most good manufactures can do the same for a nominal charge, if not fee. If you buy a used down garmet, you can always get it re-stuffed and repaired. Just be sure to buy good quality.

 

I have seen some terrific bargains on used plastics. Maybe worn once on Rainier. Replacement liners are available as are thermofit upgrades.

Posted

above advice is great but her is a few more ideas:

 

crampons rarely get sharpened by guide services so I doubt that short frontpoints will be an issue. Check anyway.

 

local guide services rarely have waterfall ice crampons so getting replacements for frontpoints are unlikely.

 

Some guide services wash there bag after every rental. Some don't. Either the bag is beaten down in machines or smells bad. Either way....uck! You will probably have to replace the down or give it a GOOD washing depending on what they do with the bag. Some guide services rent only synthetic bags cause they wash them so much. Ask them about that.

 

Boots should be fine. Good washing again. Like Dan said, might get a custon liner anyway. If you do that, get the most beat up liner and haggle down even father.

 

American Alpine Institute sold off a bunch of their stuff recently but give them a call anyway. Alpine Ascents sold a bunch of old plastic boots too but I think they still have some around. Could try them (ask for Brent) for a deal on a boot.

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