TR: A Monumental Trip

[carolyn]

Well I am back safe and sound in the frigid Midwest. Thanks to those of you who carted me around, gave me a place to sleep, shower, etc (icegirl, uncle tricky – and fergus, AlpineK, Klenke, Fern, snoboy, ratt…hope I didn’t leave anyone out).

 

This was by far one of the best trips I have taken to the PNW over the past three years for a number of reasons. The weather, with the exception of one evening, was near perfect. Okay, so it was a LITTLE chilly. Now that I am back home I really can’t complain. The hospitality was incredible. I’m so grateful to have had the opportunity to spend more time with folks Ive climbed with in the past, as well as meet new people. One of the main reasons this trip was so impactful this year for me was to see the progress I have made over the few years I have been posting on this board. I often have a hard time seeing the day to day progress in my climbing. It usually takes a big undertaking/test for me to see how far I have come. No doubt I was faced with a number of challenges on this trip….

(Warning…May me longwinded)

 

*Day One

Icegirl so generously picked me up from the airport. Though she was unable to climb she did help me find a last minute partner for a late afternoon outing at exit 38 where klenke and I both led a handful of pitches. Hmmmm…what a great place that could be for drytoolin’!!!!!

 

*Day Two

Chilled at AlpineK’s house before heading to Mattp’s to watch the debate and then out to lworth.

 

*Day Three

My earliest start of the trip (7am) . Alpinek and I climbed outer space. This was the first real test on my leg with the hiking up and down hill. Thanks to curt who carried most of the weight. Probly sped me up a bit (believe it or not ). For those of you who don’t know me, approaches often take twice the amount of time because I soooooo suck! We saw GOATS!!!!!! I was soooo psyched. I know you all find them quite the nuisance. I have never seen them before (other than the zoo), so I found them to be quite fascinating and cute. I led the 4th and final pitch on OS. These were my first leads on a multipitch. Not much opportunity to lead trad out here, so this was also one of my first dozen or so trad leads as well. The final pitch RULED!!!!! If I could only have that headspace everytime I climb. The goats met us at the top where I proceeded down the wonderful walk off, knocking off rocks left and right. Thank you curt for being patient and understanding of my clumsiness . Thank you Jesus for no one being below me.

 

*Day Four

Lworth – Followed Patrick on Brass Balls. Geejuz mother! I got an AWESOME ass kickin! What a fun bottom pitch. I led Saber after BB. That climb sucked . I kept yelling, “Is this over yet?”. Tho I liked the traverses, I found the climb to be fairly insecure and sketchy for the grade. I was glad to have the experience of being on a route I hated. Even more glad to be off it. We ended with damnation crack, which I can say was one of my favorite pitches in all the days ahead. What a beautiful climb, jam-packed with variety and pumpiness.

 

*Day Five

Semi Rest day. Thanks to Alpinfox who set up some topropes somewhere in lworth. Enjoyed some moderate slabby face climbs, along with some roped bouldering on fairly challenging faces.

 

*Day Six

SW Rib of S. Early Winter Spires with .9 finger crack variation and 10b double roofs (did I get it right Patrick?) with Uncle Tricky. I led the 2nd and 6th pitch. Wigged out a bit on the first lead . Just a tad more exposure than Ive experienced so far. Dinged around with gear forever, placing 3 pieces in less than 5ft. Two were good, one solid. Of course somehow I managed to NOT clip into the solid piece. DOH! Double roofs were way kewl. I think the only thing that got me over them was pure adrenaline and fear of having to ascend a rope in mid air. I thoroughly enjoyed this route and would HIGHLY recommend it. Thank you Uncle Tricky for knowing that Liberty Bell would not have been quite as fulfilling for me.

 

*Day Seven

Goat Wall (AKA GOTE wall ). Led a few of the easier pitches and climbed one of my first .11’s. We didn’t finish the 11 pitches because it looked like some weather was coming in. I think we got thru the 7th pitch? I really enjoyed the unique opportunity to climb a multipitch sport route.

 

*Day Eight

Ahhhh! Full rest day!!!!!! Shower, laundry, beer, and video games!!!!!

 

*Day Nine

Fun Rock, Mazama. Mmmmmmmmmmmm….face climbing at its best ! Packed in a fair amount of routes in a short period of time. Tho the routes aren’t long, I found the climbing to be some of the most enjoyable on my trip. Can you believe I was with Uncle tricky and we did ANOTHER route with double roofs! Pffffttttt!!

 

*Day Ten

Rest and Travel day to Smith.

 

*Day Eleven

Gorge! Need I say more?!?!?!

 

*Day Twelve

Short lead day with AlpineK…Captain Xenolith, Helium Woman, Hop on Pop(?), and my 2nd trad 8 – Lion’s Jaw. I followed Lions Jaw last year. It was fun to come back and lead it, despite the fact that I forgot there was a small roof and I ran out of gear about 5 ft below it, in addition to missing the anchors and having to downclimb about 10 feet to get back to them . Great experience and pretty decent headspace!!!! Thanks for the encouragement Alpinek.

 

*Day Thirteen

Where Ever I may Roam with fern. I followed the first two pitches last year and wanted to lead ALL of them this year. So, I was fern’s ropegun for the day. What an awesome climb . Didn’t flinch or feel a bit of fear the entire way up. In the moment as much as humanly possible. ROARRRRRRRRRR….one climb I would do again and again. Amazingly enough, Asterisk(?) pass was quite the hurdle for me last year. In fact, I think I had to rope up to get my scared ass over it . I was a bit nervous thinking of going over it again this year. Ha! To my surprise, not a problem at all!!!!

 

*Day Fourteen

Full on Rest day! Fern took me to breakfast at the Ikea store. Eggs, sausage, hashbrowns, and croissant all for one Canadian dollar!! I figured since it was already crazy to eat such a cheap breakfast in a furniture store I might as well wear my pajamas and slippers. Made it more comfortable to test out all their beds . Fern and I also made a helmet and chalkbag for my travelling partner, Grover (some of you have seen him on the summit of rainier!). Met dru for a movie. Save your dollars and RENT "Shaun of the Dead". Not bad, but not really worth the full ticket price either.

 

*Day Fifteen

Shut down in Squamish!!!! Actually, it wasn’t that bad. For sure the only frustrating day of my trip. For the life of me I couldn’t keep my feet on the rock. I later learned that I could blame it on my shoes (supposedly la sportiva rubber doesn’t do so well out there). My day ended on a slab climb (not my forte) which I thought was an .8. It takes a lot to get me frustrated. When I do, It usually means time to stop. So we did….THEN fern told me it was a 10c slab, NOT an 8. Well Shit! I DON’T climb 10c slabs…and I just did! No wonder I was so frustrated! I felt better. Watched the debates at the brewpub that eve in squamish. SO kind of them to put it on for me. Interesting to watch the reactions of the Canadians around me….more interesting than the debate itself to be quite honest.

 

*Day Sixteen

Belay from the car day in squamish!! Actually, due to my sketchiness I decided to honor peter croft's statement of tr'ing being the purest form of climbing. So it was all about top roping. Never done more than 6-7 pitches in a day that I can recall. Goal…10 (downclimbing included). Short climbs, but got my ten in. To my surprise I actually felt I could get a bunch more in had I wanted. I sent (on TR) a 10d/11a slab as my 10th pitch. Again, considering I do not know how to climb slabs and how well the climb went for me, I decided to end my trip on a good note . I look forward to going back to squamish. I’m curious to try more routes and see what comes of it. Good weather to do the Chief would be nice as well. Nice dinner at Snoboys house with fern and dru later that evening.

 

+Day Seventeen

Bus from Vancouver to Seattle airport. Went through customs and the fellow asked me as I walked away…”are you carrying any marijuana leaves with you today?” I thought he was gonna bring the dogs out! I told him I smoke and maybe the “stale” smell from the cigs are lingering. Damn, I didn’t even think about all the folks around me smokin pot for the last 2 ½ weeks and how the smell might have seeped into my coat. Got the full on hand bag search in the airport, even tho my coat was tucked away in a pack.

 

Yes, this was long…but so was the trip!

Again, a big thanks to those who helped me out in any way.

 

I will try to scan some pictures in the near furture.

 

Until Next year!

[Dru]

[sk]

it was so good to see you agaain I am glad you are back home in your M state

[Touray]

Sweet Carolyn,

 

I recently moved to Minnesota for graduate school. I'm already missing the Cascades... Do you ever climb at VE in St. Paul during the winter. My first year of grad school I noticed some sweet ice near the franklin bridge... SEems like there is unlimted potential for one pitch ice climbing along the banks of the river. Now all we need is to break some fire hydrants.

[Dave_Schuldt]

A 5 star TR!

[Bug]

Hey Carolyn, it was great meeting you! I'd love to hook up with you on your next trip. Meanwhile, send some of your trad photos to Dryad's Calendar collection. Try not to cover anything with gear tho.

I loved your chalk bags and was bummed that I had already bought some for my girls.

[JosephH]

Hi Carolyn,

 

My old partner recently moved back to Hudson,WI across the river from Moscow, ID. I suspect he's always looking for unsuspecting victims, I mean partners to climb with. He teachs at UWRF and I believe is doing some sort of study at an area called Red Wing. I'll pm you with his email. Give a shout the next time you come through the Gorge/PDX and we'll take you to Beacon (and give you a windsurfing session if you'd like).

[ken4ord]

Hey Carolyn, It was good meeting you. Awesome TR, you hit the weather just right. Cheers

 

Just so you know there is a dry tooling area over at X38, I haven't been there yet, probably soon since my winter will be short. There is also another one up in Snoqualmie Pass on the way to Das Toof.

[klenke]

Carolyn: it was good showing you the ropes at X38. Or, as it was, how not to hook the rope with one's leg while sketching past the crux moves.

 

Glad your trip here was fun. It gets better and better. Next year: lights out!

[wayne]

Next year you should climb the Monument!

[layton]

Glad you had fun, C-dawg.