Bug Posted September 14, 2004 Posted September 14, 2004 the climbing is real "adventure" climbing, isn't that great, I could show you some cracks..... But to each his own. and isn't exactly a destination climbing area. The long "approaches" tend to twart the rif-raf as has been demonstrated above. Quote
specialed Posted September 14, 2004 Posted September 14, 2004 Yeah there is great climbing in the B-root. But I think in the 6 yrs I climbed in them I only did one route that I'd say is actually worth the drive from Seattle. But I also wouldn't say that the approaches are any worse than the Cascades. The Cascades approaches are longer, but there's more to climb when you get there. Quote
Lambone Posted September 14, 2004 Posted September 14, 2004 ever do Modern Home Environment or Timebinder? Quote
specialed Posted September 14, 2004 Posted September 14, 2004 I've done them both. My Mom's Muscle Shirt on Flathead is better then both of those though. Don't get me wrong, Montana is killer and Blodgett has some great climbing and is definitly worth a trip, but most people might feel that its not worth the nine/ten hr drive when the Cascades and B.C. are closer ... Quote
Bug Posted September 14, 2004 Posted September 14, 2004 Blodgett beats any canyon I've seen in the Cascades. It is the most accessible and has the highest concentration, and has a pretty good guide book. There are other canyons with minimal approaches, say 3 or 4 miles plus a couple hundred feet of talus, that have lot's of smaller buttresses (only 3-5 pitches), better rock, and nobody goes there because Montanans are assholes. Roaring Lion is only a taste of what else is out there. If you are willing to hump up to the divide country, you get past the gneiss and into true granite. Different stuff. The gneiss tends to be sloping and inconsistent features with some unpredictable bands in places. The divide peaks have consistent cracks and features. Excellent granite for clean alpine trad. The top of Sweathouse has only one ascent that I know of. Slot Tower 10A, 6 pitches to a great summit. It is just one of about a dozen teeth on a sawtoothed ridge. The Finger lies in waiting untouched. TinCup Creek has some 10 pitch walls that I have done one ascent on. There are at least fifty other good lines up there. No one else has touched it as far as I know. I could go on. But the Cascades are great. I like the guide books now that I am old and feeble. Quote
specialed Posted September 14, 2004 Posted September 14, 2004 Awesome. I don't have as much experience on the other side of the crest. But the rock around trapper peak, except for Trapper itself is real nice granite. Last year's AAJ has some nice looking routes on "spirulina" tower in the Trapper area put up by my bro Jimmy Pinjub and co, 5.10 / 5.11 6-7 pitches. Quote
Bug Posted September 14, 2004 Posted September 14, 2004 Mikey and I did some towers in that area. I'll have to look at the AAJ. We were young. We were stoned. We carried heavy loads long distances. Climbed many untouched rocks. Many I have not seen twice had multiple potential routes. Quote
Lambone Posted September 14, 2004 Posted September 14, 2004 someday I wanna climb those routes in Blodget...I'd be happy with that. My wife and I almost moved there a year ago...had a house picked out and everything...but ended up in chossville oregon Quote
layton Posted September 15, 2004 Posted September 15, 2004 I'll love to drag some local Montana "hardmen" around the cascades and watch em weep for their mommies. Bug, are you saying that I can just pick a drainage or valley and find good climbing? B.S. I proved this idea wrong this month on my slog-to-nothing-a-thon. No wonder you got nowhere. I give beta in a PM to anyone who doesn't flame me. I said I could list the drainages where there was good climbing. That's called beta asshole. Find the rest yourself. Ask yo momma to teach you some manners boy. Just stay the fuck away from the Bitterroots and quite whining. You probably can't walk far enough to reach the really good climbing anyway. Hey now! I wasn't flaming you-i was chiding... Lighten up, yo. This is Jordans tantrum, not mine. He's the A-hole. Goddamn canadians aren't as polite as they first appear. Quote
Bug Posted September 15, 2004 Posted September 15, 2004 I'll love to drag some local Montana "hardmen" around the cascades and watch em weep for their mommies. Bug, are you saying that I can just pick a drainage or valley and find good climbing? B.S. I proved this idea wrong this month on my slog-to-nothing-a-thon. No wonder you got nowhere. I give beta in a PM to anyone who doesn't flame me. I said I could list the drainages where there was good climbing. That's called beta asshole. Find the rest yourself. Ask yo momma to teach you some manners boy. Just stay the fuck away from the Bitterroots and quite whining. You probably can't walk far enough to reach the really good climbing anyway. Hey now! I wasn't flaming you-i was chiding... Lighten up, yo. This is Jordans tantrum, not mine. He's the A-hole. Goddamn canadians aren't as polite as they first appear. Sorry if my openness offended you. My macho upbringing is sensitive to acusations of "weeping to my mommy." OK the truth hurts. I'm getting old. But in my day.... Have fun in CA. Quote
jordop Posted September 15, 2004 Author Posted September 15, 2004 Thanks to all those who have provided info both here and in PM form. I will certainly hit you up for more when the time comes. Good to know that this sort of thing works, that underneath all the "peacocking and false charging" folks are there with the deal Quote
nolanr Posted September 15, 2004 Posted September 15, 2004 Hey speaking of Blodgett Canyon, is that some kind of geological anomaly that there is a well formed, mostly free standing arch on the ridgeline on the south side maybe 3 or 4 miles in? That just doesn't seem to happen w/ granitic type of rock, at least not in my experience. Any geologists out there want to explain how that happened. Quote
Bug Posted September 16, 2004 Posted September 16, 2004 I'm not a geologist but I have gone up there and rappeled off the arch. The inner rock is crumbly and loose. Just a bad pocket of poorly crystalyzed gniess. Quote
devilboy Posted September 19, 2004 Posted September 19, 2004 hey jordop, how 'bout a photo so I know who not to give beta to when I happen across you? not that the likes of you could use any help route finding (or even selecting an objective for that matter) from any of us weak-kneed montanans, but just in case... Quote
Dru Posted September 20, 2004 Posted September 20, 2004 Jordop is just wishing there is a guidebook not cause he wants to repeat a route but cause he wants to do one of those Layton Style 5.10bXR "first ascent" thingys and ifn he finds a soft iron pin on the 9th pitch his day will be ruined and his plans for chest thumpin in the AAJ will be defeated. Quote
devilboy Posted September 20, 2004 Posted September 20, 2004 Jordop is just wishing there is a guidebook not cause he wants to repeat a route but cause he wants to do one of those Layton Style 5.10bXR "first ascent" thingys and ifn he finds a soft iron pin on the 9th pitch his day will be ruined and his plans for chest thumpin in the AAJ will be defeated. what's with the whole grade IV in the lower 48 in the aaj thing anyhoo? seems out of place Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.