sexual_chocolate Posted August 27, 2002 Share Posted August 27, 2002 I know you got 'em.... Which ones are memorable to you, and why? I'd pick something called Nothing Dies on the very back wall facing the water. Sit-start on the lowest jug on the right, texture only for feet. Straight up to Marx, left hand out left to texture, move feet up and left, bump left to Double Crimp. Hard match here. Once matched, move right foot to good texture just right of the crack, and throw right hand to Stalin, definitely the crux, by far! Took me a long time to finally stick this move (body tension). Feet up, layback and reach Jaundice side-pull with left, right foot up, match on Jaundice, dyno left to Hatchet (easy), match, throw to Big Block, and say "Right on!" Also, 24 Hour Tobacconeer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted August 27, 2002 Share Posted August 27, 2002 Red Hot Tower! (while Coach throws the Death Asteroid at you and encourages you to climb faster because you're 40 feet out from your last RP, you've just dropped the rack, Johnny Bachar is climbing up your ass, there's a thunderclap threatening, and you're belayer is smokin' out!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klar404 Posted August 27, 2002 Share Posted August 27, 2002 I just wanna know how much time Coach did. And I just gotta voice "my" opinion that plastic pants man sucks! He was drillin' golf balls over me at Vantage.Give a hoot, don't pollute, Fucker! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhamaker Posted August 27, 2002 Share Posted August 27, 2002 I like Hepatitis Crack. The overhanging finger crack slick w/ grease, blood and bits of skin. Good short overhang w/ a fun exit. Nothing says "Get your shots" like Hepatitis Crack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexual_chocolate Posted August 27, 2002 Author Share Posted August 27, 2002 The Razor is ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Figger_Eight Posted August 27, 2002 Share Posted August 27, 2002 My favorite UW rock problem is trying to ignore Coach as he's working his "magic" on all the sporty little girlie climbers there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave_Schuldt Posted August 27, 2002 Share Posted August 27, 2002 Haven't seen coach latley, it's been nicel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexual_chocolate Posted August 27, 2002 Author Share Posted August 27, 2002 Sheeesh! What's with all the hate? Coach is a fixture, a one-man carnival, a traveling freak-show, there for our amusement! Appreciate him, before they get him. Shhhhh, keep it secret! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothrop Posted August 27, 2002 Share Posted August 27, 2002 Whoa, is this "Coach" guy the same dude I've been calling Captain Aggro? He looks like he's about 40 and deep in midlife crisis, wears shades and has a sort of fledgling mullet. I saw him race a dude on a bike across the grass behind the UW rock once, grunting and screaming like a wounded wildebeest and running a lot like one, too. I like the fist-to-fingers crack the ends in a block on the south-facing middle wall. And the two-moves-to-a-dyno problem up the left side of the roof is fun, too. Maybe I'll get it someday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayB Posted August 27, 2002 Share Posted August 27, 2002 The "Four Rock Classic" on the southeast side is pretty sweet, as are the many variations on that line that incorporate most of the same holds.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offwidthclimber Posted August 27, 2002 Share Posted August 27, 2002 south side (canal side): on the right end of the rock is a lovely off-fists crack that goes up the slightly overhanging face. that thing rules. run the laps and hope yer technique is good enough to spare your skin. other than that, i really like the finger crack that runs up the 80 degree slab on the east end of the rock. only you've gotta just use the crack for feet. no cheating on those big fucking handholds. there are also a couple good friction problems on the same face. hell, that whole damn rock is good to go. peace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexual_chocolate Posted August 27, 2002 Author Share Posted August 27, 2002 quote: Originally posted by slothrop: Whoa, is this "Coach" guy the same dude I've been calling Captain Aggro? He looks like he's about 40 and deep in midlife crisis, wears shades and has a sort of fledgling mullet. I saw him race a dude on a bike across the grass behind the UW rock once, grunting and screaming like a wounded wildebeest and running a lot like one, too. Yes, that certainly sounds like the traveling side-show. He may assume the characteristics of a raving madman, which he is, but I believe him to be quite harmless, and a warm human being to boot! BTW, a classic: as you face the wall from the parking lot, it's on the slightly overhanging face right of the tallest middle wall. Texture only for feet, dyno from the huge block head high just right of the crack, to the big block in the middle of the face, and then to the top! (Scary!) Remember: no rocks for feet, so no fair mantling the starting block! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothrop Posted August 27, 2002 Share Posted August 27, 2002 Yeah, that finger crack on the slab is tasty. I always wuss out at the end and smear in the corner on the left. Perfect fingerlocks getting slowly bigger as you go up... nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cairns Posted August 27, 2002 Share Posted August 27, 2002 quote: Originally posted by sexual chocolate: Straight up to Marx, left hand out left to texture, move feet up and left, bump left to Double Crimp. Hard match here. Once matched, move right foot to good texture just right of the crack, and throw right hand to Stalin I will have to consult my very sparse notes. It sounds like you may be on a first-name basis with many of the holds. Thank you for initiating this topic and I will think it over. A simple one: Main tower, canal side, big rock on lower left, mantel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forrest_m Posted August 27, 2002 Share Posted August 27, 2002 Canal side, left-most wall. There’s a big layback rail that’s easy; now try using the parallel feature to the left… texture only for feet. Pretty airy at the top. Other classics: the Gong Show (opposite side of the same wall, go around the huge block in the center using anything you want but not touching the huge block with your feet. With every revolution, do some pullups on the block as you pass under it. Repeat until you fall off.), the two-handed dyno on the left side of the huge roof. Plus the cracks 3” deep, abrasive lined cracks that don’t kill you make you stronger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexual_chocolate Posted August 27, 2002 Author Share Posted August 27, 2002 Does everyone know Coach Crack? It's the good hand crack on the water side, furthest east wall. Layback the left side, features only for feet, no crack for feet. A good one! V4? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted August 27, 2002 Share Posted August 27, 2002 quote: Originally posted by sexual chocolate: Does everyone know Coach Crack? It's the good hand crack on the water side, furthest east wall. Layback the left side, features only for feet, no crack for feet. A good one! V4? This is known as "Satan's Layback". I showed it to Eric Winkleman and he cruised it like it was 5.8. Coach is a cool guy and part of the "culture" that makes the UW rock my favorite bouldering haunt. Screw you guys for chastising him. Another great problem: the roofy finger crack on the west end, no rocks/no crack for the feet. Check out the guide by Scotty Hopkins and Erik Wolfe for some great problems. Most impressive high-ball I've seen: on the Stadium side of the tower, the left side of this face (between widening crack and left edge), no rocks for the feet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offwidthclimber Posted August 27, 2002 Share Posted August 27, 2002 these aren't hard ones, but pretty fun all the same... on the east side slab with the finger crack, there are two large rocks embedded in the slab. try scaling the slab using only one large rock - no other hand holds allowed. basically, it's a tricky start to reach the rock (depending on height), then mantle up onto the rock and go for the top. this problem works using either rock. i don't remember which one was tougher. slothrop - i love that finger crack. dammit i spent a lot of time trying to master that sucker. it's kinda weird for my finger size. i was stoked the day i hopped on it while heading out and fired that sucker in my sneakers (no footholds, crack only)! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted August 27, 2002 Share Posted August 27, 2002 Another cool problem is on the bunny slab, canal side. Ascend the right edge of this slab, using only the 24-inch strip between the overhanging Tales of Power wall and a linear concrete feature on the slab. Pretend it's an alpine ledge high on the Eiger of whatever. Harder when snowing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offwidthclimber Posted August 27, 2002 Share Posted August 27, 2002 oh. i've always been curious... what are the general ratings for some of the classics at the UW rock? coach's crack? off fists crack right of coach's crack? finger crack on the east end slab? any of the other cracks at the rock? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted August 27, 2002 Share Posted August 27, 2002 http://www.eskimo.com/%7Epc22/CC/Bboard/Messages/2135.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lizard_brain Posted August 27, 2002 Share Posted August 27, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dave Schuldt: quote:Originally posted by lizard brain: My favorite UW rock problem is PARKING. Ride your bike! ...What's a bike? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted August 27, 2002 Share Posted August 27, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Gary Yngve: quote:Originally posted by pope: quote:Originally posted by sexual chocolate: Does everyone know Coach Crack? It's the good hand crack on the water side, furthest east wall. Layback the left side, features only for feet, no crack for feet. A good one! V4? This is known as "Satan's Layback". I showed it to Eric Winkleman and he cruised it like it was 5.8. The book lists it as a VH (they estimate 5.11/5.11+).That's accurate. Couldn't tell it to watch Winkleman climb it though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted August 27, 2002 Share Posted August 27, 2002 quote: Originally posted by offwidthclimber: oh. i've always been curious... what are the general ratings for some of the classics at the UW rock? coach's crack? off fists crack right of coach's crack? finger crack on the east end slab? any of the other cracks at the rock? They are 5.9/A1 climbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vegetablebelay Posted August 27, 2002 Share Posted August 27, 2002 My favorite UW Rock Problem was Jeremiah Pharms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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