Karl_Manzer Posted September 3, 2004 Posted September 3, 2004 Has anyone around here climbed the Northeast Buttress of Steinbok? Or know someone who has? I know Kevin gives a pretty detailed discription in the Alpine Select but I can't resist trolling for more beta. Is it really 5.9,A2 or is it Rockies 5.9,A2? Karl Quote
Dru Posted September 7, 2004 Posted September 7, 2004 i know some people that have climbed it Canadian Rockies 5.9 A2? more like Squamish 5.9 A2 complete with mosquitoes, wet rock and vegetation filled cracks. Quote
layton Posted September 7, 2004 Posted September 7, 2004 solid belays and gear was what I heard Quote
peas Posted September 8, 2004 Posted September 8, 2004 i know some people that have climbed it John Howe? Quote
Karl_Manzer Posted September 8, 2004 Author Posted September 8, 2004 Wow! Sounds like a west coast classic! Quote
Dru Posted September 8, 2004 Posted September 8, 2004 Dude that's alpine rock climbing in SW BC. Well, mostly. None of those things need get in the way of a good climb... mosquitoes die, wet rock dries, vegetation can be removed... By the by the 10th anniversary of the Edwards-Spagnut ascent is this month if I'm not mistaken. Quote
webnick2007 Posted August 13, 2009 Posted August 13, 2009 I'm hoping a post will move this thread back up on the list. I'm also looking for a decent TR or play-by-play for pitches on the NE Buttress. Does anyone have a link with more beta than Alpine Select? Thanks! Quote
fern Posted August 17, 2009 Posted August 17, 2009 I think Sonnie Trotter wrote a TR in a recent CAJ? ... unless there are silent ascents out there, it seems like the Howe/Flavelle, Edwards-Spagnut, and Trotter/Partner ascents are the only ones that have been done of the NE Butt? Quote
G-spotter Posted August 17, 2009 Posted August 17, 2009 And it was rigged up and filmed on with an ascent of at least the top couple of pitches for K2 the movie... Quote
StevenSeagal Posted August 17, 2009 Posted August 17, 2009 And it was rigged up and filmed on with an ascent of at least the top couple of pitches for K2 the movie... How many billionaires do you know, Dru? Quote
Sol Posted August 17, 2009 Posted August 17, 2009 tyree and i tried the Flavelle-Howe two summers ago. we got about 700 ft up the beast before we realized that we were too far left and bailed off a pin at an obvious bailpoint. sonnie trotter, will stanhope, and someone else freed the edwards spagnut the same year (placing one bolt?). it's compact and dirty and flaky, but is one hell of a line. we often talk about getting back on it but it always seems to fall to the bottom of the list. the bivy ledge high on the route looks quite spectacular and i hope to spend a night up there sometime. Quote
G-spotter Posted August 17, 2009 Posted August 17, 2009 The east face has kicked back a couple strong parties and is still waiting for a first ascent... north face too I guess although it's not as good a line unless you like flakes in your moss Quote
jmace Posted August 18, 2009 Posted August 18, 2009 sonnie trotter, will stanhope, and someone else freed the edwards spagnut the same year (placing one bolt?). 4 bolts I think. I think some of the same team was recently trying the N Face line..I believe it was pretty much finished maybe just a pitch or two left. Quote
dooley Posted August 18, 2009 Posted August 18, 2009 Is it key access for the gate or is it normally open? Quote
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