horsecock heaven

[sk]

I'm only doing this 'cause some one asked... so here goes. For starters does anyone have a house they want to give to us we are seriously considering a move. Washington ROCKS!!!! the majority of our trip was camping with the kids. When we got to 8mile campground I laid down on the picnic table, and through the trees I saw the most beautiful and overwhelming amount of rock that I have EVER seen in my whole life. My breath was taken away. And lets face it, from that point on I knew I was in way over my head. There are no gaper signs, no arrows to say climb over there. So, we got misplaced on our way up to Givler's Dome (JK wont let me say LOST) we finally found it and realized that we didn't have enough of a rack (must get more cams) to climb it. Disappointed, but at least we saw it. BTW really enjoyed the 3rd class scramble on the way to the dome!!! Much fun so we hiked back down to Alphabete wall and JK lead Dogleg Crack 5.8+*** realy fun climb (I fell) and then we went to Classic Crack, where we saw the ONLY group of climbers we saw the whole day friday. and jk lead that (stud) and I fell Are you seeing how my week went???? we realy had a great time. Enjoyed Leavenworth the camping was great the kids had tons of fun and we got to drink beer with figger8 at duckboys

 

so there you go! thank you for asking and next time I go to leavenworth I want to climb with someone familiar with the area

 

[ 08-18-2002, 02:54 PM: Message edited by: sk ]

[glen]

Lworth kicks ass. glad you had a great trip. Are you saying the signage at Smith is a bit much?

[sk]

I'm saying that I am a crying whining baby woman that has been spoiled be the signage at smith

[jkrueger]

Washington Granite Snaffles can free solo 5.15d backwards! Leavenworth is the horsecock capital of the PNW. The Forest Pass system bites. Jeff Smoot's guidebook leaves much to be desired. Granite is sharp. True ratings are hard! The obvious ascent trail is anything but.

[glen]

wait till you try some true ratings in Tuolumne with runouts to boot. HC will definitely help with the 8600' approaches too!

[Dru]

ya you shoulda bought kramar guidebook. it contains more details about strange creatures found hunkered down in nooks and crannies behind flakes i love that phrase to death!

 

also the bit he writes about "Lworth is not a place to climb hard but rather to picnic"

[sk]

I would say that the picknicking there is hard. We parked at a trail head thinking we would take the boys on a hike and eat some lunch . A way to spend an afternoon. so we get out of the car and me being nieve I expected we could pay our $ in what my 6 year old calls a "three dollar" machine. But NO. It's alll complicated, and you have to GO get some funky pass and the fill out another pass, It's amazing to me that anyone goes threw the trouble at all.

 

and Dru, I get it.... "I'm not worthy" totaly had the "I should just leave my rock shoes right here and take up knitting" moment. but it passed. And I may suck, I may always suck, but I'm having a good time falling and being humbled by nature. As it should be

[Greg_W]

quote:

---

Originally posted by sk:

[QB]... and realized that we didn't have enough of a rack (must get more cams) to climb it./QB]

---

Nuts and Hexes work great on that climb; please explain. (Just curious)

[fleblebleb]

That climb takes lots of cams, or hardly requires any pieces at all... depending on who leads it

[fleblebleb]

Dammit... do I have to be Chronic Gumby after I'm finished with Chief Wanker? Where are those moderators? This one's for you!

[jon]

Will give custom titles for !

[Peter_Puget]

Please give me Weekend Warrior!

 

Here's your beer:

 

Heck I evern gave you two!

[Thinker]

SK, so what was it that 'spanked' you? Sounds like you cut your teeth on some great moderate Leavenworth cracks. No shame in taking a couple of falls on your first time there.

 

I'd venture to say that crack climbing is not something you get to do much of at Smith. It takes some adjustment and practice to work out the technique.

 

I really get a kick out of watching sport climbers take a stab at Dogleg for the first time. (Ok, I'll admit I have a few friends who are sport climbers.) The moves and technique aren't immediately obvious to them and it usually leads to much swearing and good natured ribbing. It doesn't take too many days of climbing, though, for them to make the adjustment to the wonders of granite cracks.

 

I'm sure you'll kick some ass the next time you visit horsecock heaven.

[sk]

the sad thing here is that I mostly climb cracks... yeah sure it's basalt, and WAY diffrent than granit, But I realy had hoped I would do better. I would go back right now if I could.... I send 5.8's in the gorge at smith (following) NO problem... I just got schooled and Now, I WANT MORE!!!!!!

[Dru]

funny i always find basalt cracks hard cause there is less friction...basalt is slippery...