Conditions on Adams?

[Zee]

conditions on Adams? Looking to take my wife up it via Mazama Glacier. Any thoughts or opinions or beta? Thanks!

[ryland_moore]

I'd like to know conditions too. A friend of mine is taking his kid up the south (dog)route and wants to know if crampons are needed this time of year or will an axe suffice? I've never been up that side.

[mattp]

I've climbed six different routes on the mountain but I have never done that one and I have always wondered why it is so popular. I always hear it described as "a little more interesting" than the south ridge route, but I have never heard anybody say "it is beautiful" or "it is exciting" or anything like that and it ends up joining the top of the south ridge route, where you will be climbing along side all those that clamber up there in sneakers with their kids and dogs. I am guessing that folks are looking for an easy glacier route that is relatively easy to follow and that there may also be some sense of security gained by having the standard route immediately next door as a bail-out option. Personally, I'd probably go for Mount Baker or Glacier Peak, or I'd look at something like the Quien Sabe Glacier on Sahale Peak or Mount Ruth. But lets hear from someone who is a fan of the Mazama Glacier route – please tell us how great it is and why.

[forrest_m]

the year is 1984 and the 13-year old forrest_m is tying into a rope for his first seattle mountaineers basic experience climb. it's a bit hard to move with so many slings, pulleys, prussiks and other gear draped willy-nilly over his helmeted head. he feels very grown up to be spending the whole weekend with these grown-up people. after a tedious but short hike up the night before, the group had camped (on snow!) at a very scenic spot, with views of real glaciers and seracs. now, at 3 am, and the domes of snow ahead seem very large in the uncertain light of headlamps.

 

4 hours later, the party emerges onto the false summit, having climbed the mazama glacier without serious incident. but there was excitement - oh yes. stepping over *real crevasses* that you couldn't see the bottom of. traversing left, then right along the lip of another series of cracks (big enough to swallow a car). forrest_m has felt the sun on his face while hundreds of miles of eastern washington desert remains in darkness. another hour or so, and the summit. with all their gear, the party of mountaineers is clearly of a different breed than the long line of non-climber's we share the summit with - we climbed a glacier to get here.

 

later, at the dusty trailhead, the trip leader distributes ice cold beers to celebrate the successful trip. under-aged forrest_m is included. mountaineers can be cool, too.

[b-rock]

quote:

---

Originally posted by forrest_m:

[QB]with all their gear, the party of mountaineers is clearly of a different breed than the long line of non-climber's we share the summit with - we climbed a

glacier

to get here.

QB]

---

Funny, last time I climbed the south side I saw three different parties with ropes and pickets at the trail head. 'Whatcha climbin'' I ask. 'Oh, south side' they reply...

[Zee]

matt p & forrest- I didn't ask for your two but opinions! I've climbed plenty of tough, technical routes here and abroad so enough of your bullshit. I've also climbed all the routes you've mentioned. I'm climbing the route 'cause my wife is not into technical routes and wants to climb all the volcanos- shit, she could probably put you into the dust!

[forrest_m]

Zee – Check your knickers. I think you might find an unnecessary twist. I was suggesting to MattP that he try to see the route from the perspective of someone without his extensive experience – as a beginner, the route was, in fact, full of surprises and marvels.

 

"I didn't ask for your opinion"... gimme a break. Try rereading your original post. In fact, you specifically ask for opinions. If skin is really this thin, perhaps you should avoid posting in public forums?

 

[ 08-16-2002, 01:56 PM: Message edited by: forrest_m ]

[mattp]

Zee - I did not say the route was not worthy -- only that I thought there might be more exciting routes that are no more technical -- AND I specifically said I was interested in learning more about why that route in particular might be a good one. Enjoy your climb.

[Zee]

ok, ok, I took it the wrong way- my apologies. What other route do you suggest so they don't scare my wife?

[sketchfest]

I don't know for sure, but I heard the north ridge is pretty easy. i'm sure someone can provide some info.

[mattp]

When are you wanting to do the climb? The easier routes on Mount Adams generally follow ridges and thus will involve more rubble-hopping than the Mazama Glacier route -- especially this late in the year. My comments were based on the fact that I have talked with lots of people who have climbed via the Mazama Glacier and they have said various things about their climb but I have not heard them to comment much on the route itself (good or bad). For easier routes, I have enjoyed the NW Ridge (even in late-season) but it is a big rubble heap with 300 feet of steep exposed snow that will be quite firm this late in the season. The North Ridge is also good though, again, it has more rock and I would guess that it has a greater sense of exposure. Mid-season, I have also enjoyed the Avalanche Glacier - White Salmon Glacier route. It has a very nice campsite at timberline, just below the moraine, and it approaches the summit from the saddle at the top of the NW Ridge so you would not share any part of the climb with the standard route. However, I believe that parts of this route are a little steeper than the Mazama Glacier, and it may have a difficult ‘schrund this late in the year. Again, let me say that I am curious about, and not necessarily down on, the Mazama.

[forrest_m]

The north ridge is pretty easy (it’s the standard descent from the north side routes), but it has some pretty loose and unpleasant sections and some exposure. On the plus side, the bivy on that plateau at the base is one of the most beautiful places to camp in the southern cascades: sunset with rainier and st. helens right there. I’d say that your first plan is actually a good one. The mazama glacier gives you the opportunity to look into a few big holes without actually presenting much difficulty and lets you avoid the south ridge crowds for at least a good part of the way. Actually, except for the weekend crowds, the south ridge itself can actually be pretty nice if you catch it before all the snow melts off, but I imagine by this time of year it’s probably a lot of scree and such. IIRC, the trailhead for the Mazama is on the Yakima Indian reservation? If it is, remember that there’s some additional permit or fee you need to deal with.

[Goat_Boy]

Zee--You probably know all the answers on this route if you've spent time on the volcanos. The traverse from Cold Springs approach might be a little bit of a nuisance this time of year, but I don't really know for sure. It would be a nice moderate route for your wife to get a little exposure to crevasses and route decisions. Nothing difficult, but still a good high alpine, low angle glacier experience. Avalanche Glacier is longer and a little more committing, with a potential schrund problem you might want to protect. And it steepens significantly before reaching the plateau--nothing too bad. N Ridge is a rubble hike suitable for hearty pets. I would disagree with those who suggested there is any exposure--unless you look for it. Great views from this side of the mountain, and the Killen Creek approach hike is really lovely. I guess the question is, does your wife want to carry glacier travel gear or just avoid the S Spur crowd? Adams Glacier (and variations)is my favorite route, but 45-50 degree ice is probably not what she's looking for. N. Ridge: go light, scramble and get sand in your boots. Mazama: march through snow and ice, manage a rope and peer into crevasses. Both are similar in effort. Either way, it's a good intro to a big mountain. Only synical hardmen wouldn't have fun fun running up either way with their spouses. You're a lucky man.

[chilly]

In response to the So. climb, crampons, axe and hiking pole are a pretty good combo. I was up just for the workout a week and a half ago and the route was pretty firm and icy to the summit with some rocky sections in between.

[Fairweather]

MattP

 

Which routes have you done? I have three days to climb next weekend and we're looking at The Castle Route as one of our options. (I'm sure it is bone dry right now, but on this particular route, I'm not sure late season conditions are a detrement) I've wanted to do this route ever since I read "Tales of a Western Mountaineer". Any beta to share?