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glassgowkiss

[TR] Joffre- Flavelle-Lane 8/12/2004

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Climb: Joffre-Flavelle-Lane

 

Date of Climb: 8/12/2004

 

Trip Report:

Joffre in the summer in just a choss pile. even worst candian rockies choss has nothing on this mountain. flavell-lane is just bunch of stacked up blocks with moss thrown on the top of it. central pillar looks like the same deal, but at much harder grade.

australian gully doesn't have any snow in it. used the south-east face descent. nothing like described in the guide. so here is the betta for the descent. if there is snow- use the australian colouir. if not- follow the ridge facing Matier. just walking and a bit of scramble will bring you towards the cliffs. go to the climbers left and there is an anchor. don't go to visible one on the slab- there is no safe way of getting to it. we put in one right above a chimney on the s-w side of the mountain. from there 3 30m raps bring you to the ledge (chock stone and 2 kb). follow this ledge to a little col and drop onto glacier. from there just walking.

gullies looked like hell, a lot of rockfall all over the place.

technically not a hard route, but to put it mildly- very unpleasant

 

Gear Notes:

starndard rack, bring a few pitons (kb's)

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I thought Joffre might be the one alpine objective in western BC that actually had decent rock. Guess not. Just goes to show Canadians have no taste.

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I did the Southeast Face scramble recently and found the guide (McLane's) to be fairly accurate. There are cairns on the rocks on top of the snowfield that would be helpful on the descent if you hadn't just ascended the route. We reversed the route to descend and didn't require any rappels.

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that sucks about the central pillar and the Flavelle Lane, I wouldlike to hear any one elses comments about these routes. How did the North face couloirs look, barren or climable?

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at this moment the gully routes are just bowling alleys raked with stonefall. central gully has rock section in a middle. getting to the left one would be a big problem-looks like horizontal bergshrund overhanging about 5 m. twisting colouir- leva this one for some colder temps.

as far as rock- the whole mountain is just a steep pile of rock turd

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Man this is hilarious.

 

Hey - why did you continue to climb if it looked so shit? Or was it that you figured you would send then talk shit with true non armchair bs?

 

Those couloirs look ok to me.

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well. it was easier to keep going then to rap. climbing wasn't that hard, just scary-crappy.matt did wonderful job leading it! it did not look so bad from the glacier. i think it would be a fantastic climb for winter ascent. gullies are not so good right now, when temps drop they might be in better shape

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