ryland_moore Posted July 29, 2004 Posted July 29, 2004 What are the pros and cons to using one rope vs. two on the NE Ridge for the descent? Since you can't rap down into the knotch/gulley with one rope, where is the preferred rap direction? We are a party of 2 trying to move fast and light. Benefits to one vs. two ropes and vice versa? Thanks! Quote
slaphappy Posted July 29, 2004 Posted July 29, 2004 2 ropes- benefits- half the raps, faster negatives- low angle raps causing tangles, weight, more likely to get stuck rope 1 rope- benefits- lighter, no tangles, less likely to get stuck rope negatives- more raps, slower We used 2 50m 8 mils. Worked well, and closed gap considerably with group using only one 60m for raps. If I did it again () I would use the 2 ropes but carry one while using the other doubled over for simulling. OK climb, very cool spot! * there are rap stations all over the place, "direction" won't be an issue. (east) Quote
Alpinfox Posted July 29, 2004 Posted July 29, 2004 I also used two 60m ropes on Triumph, but I think I'd only bring one next time. Low angle 60m raps are a pain in the ass. Ryland, bring a knife along on your climb and remove some of the old, excess webbing from a few of the rap stations. It was pretty obscene when I was there and I took home a few handfuls. Has anyone here tried to find/use the rappel down the southeast side of Triumph? It would be a lot faster and more direct. Quote
ryland_moore Posted July 29, 2004 Author Posted July 29, 2004 (edited) ALready planning on replacing some of the old with new if it looks bad and cut away excess crap. Are new rap rings needed as well or just webbing? I hear that other descent is fast too, as it was discussed in a post last year or so with specific beta (ClimbHigh?), but it requires two ropes for sure. Edited July 29, 2004 by ryland_moore Quote
mvs Posted July 29, 2004 Posted July 29, 2004 I thought 1 doubled 8.5 mm 50 meter rope was enough. We only made 2-3 raps over the steepest parts, downclimbed other stuff. I like slaphappy's idea though of using one on the way up, 2 for descent. Have fun! Quote
Alpinfox Posted July 29, 2004 Posted July 29, 2004 I don't remember what the rap rings looked like. I'd bring a couple. If you can get some good beta on the other descent, I'd go that way even if it does take two ropes. It would be a steeper rap (less clusterf**k), fewer raps, and would put you in better position at the end of the rap (don't have to cross the "glacier" again). Plus, you could share the beta with you dear friends on cc.com! Quote
slaphappy Posted July 29, 2004 Posted July 29, 2004 ...at least a single ring on every rap, all appeared to be in acceptable shape, although I think rapping repetitively on one aluminum ring is questionable in itself... use single 3/8" chain links, cheaper and far stronger... shy of bolts and chains in better stone, the raps seemed alpine "bomber", almost sport-like... Quote
larrythellama Posted July 29, 2004 Posted July 29, 2004 Leave the brightest and least frayed pieces up there, and just rap on what is left. Quote
slaphappy Posted July 29, 2004 Posted July 29, 2004 We only made 2-3 raps over the steepest parts, downclimbed other stuff. hmmmm, are you sure? Even if you did, is that really any faster? with all the questionable stone, I would be "pulling" carefully on the holds... Quote
layton Posted July 29, 2004 Posted July 29, 2004 you have to downclimb a bunch, there are no rap stations on large sections. if you simul-rap then 1 rope is WAY faster! What a pain in the ass pulling two ropes would be on this, and carrying the weight of one would suck on such fast ez terrain. You don't just zip from rap to rap, so you'll have to coil two twisty ropes multiple times. I will always be in favor of one rope even if it doubles the amount of raps you have to do. Quote
Tod Posted July 29, 2004 Posted July 29, 2004 I ran across a group one time who had rapped off the SE Ridge and they felt that it was much quicker than heading back down the NE Ridge (however two ropes were necessary for the overhang section of the rappel). The person was MtnHigh who said: It took 3 hours to descend from the summit to the col camp. It can be even faster but we had one stuck rope situation and a bit of indecision on the raps. When looking down the two long raps the thought crosses your mind, what the hell are we rappelling into? Will this link up with something or will we be juggin' back up this friggin rope? Quote
forrest_m Posted July 29, 2004 Posted July 29, 2004 we brought one 80-foot length of 10.5 and felt it was plenty. We simulclimbed the entire route; we only did 4 raps (40', obviously) over the steepest steps and simul-downclimbed the rest. There's so much broken and/or horizontal ground, we felt this was significantly faster than rappelling. even if this is "too much", i would definately lean towards bringing only one rope, i can't think of anywhere on that descent where a 60 meter rap would be desirable - too much chance of the rope getting hung up. YMMV Quote
j_b Posted July 29, 2004 Posted July 29, 2004 if you feel ok downclimbing exposed 3rd class, one rope is plenty. i don't recall having to rappell the access gully the few times i have been on that ridge, even though the gully is loose. Quote
mvs Posted July 30, 2004 Posted July 30, 2004 I didn't think the rock was all that loose actually, and it's true, there are some horizontal sections where it is more rythmic to walk on then downclimb 30 feet to the next horizontal section. We did the bivy 1 pitch up the ridge by the snowpatch (gone now I hear?) which was _fantastic_, so we had an interest in going down the way we came to get our sleeping bags. Dang I want to do it again now... Quote
Lambone Posted July 30, 2004 Posted July 30, 2004 dude you are such an ego trippin maniac... "only 1.5 hours..." "via ferrata..." "car to car is the only..." STFU already, jeeze. Quote
slaphappy Posted July 30, 2004 Posted July 30, 2004 Good lookin peak in a great position with killer views. The rock was mediocre at best (not terribly loose but hollow if you knock on it, like Garfield's stone after the slab) but the climbin was ho hum, classic non the less...go back? So much more... 1 day? 2? 3? who cares some people like to enjoy the outdoors not rush to the PC to do a progress report... * Lambone... Quote
layton Posted July 30, 2004 Posted July 30, 2004 hey, it would make a sweet via feretta! just trying to show how much faster it is w/one rope and simul-rapelling and it's one hell of a hump with a full pack, i'd much rather enjoy the scenery vs. sweating and hurting. sorry for the beta and sarcasm, next time I'll write something a lot less interesting. I'd have a long fall if I were an ego maniac when I found out how much faster some folks are and what better climbers most people are. I mean, who's egotisical about how fast they rapell? gimme a break. I thought we were friends lambone? although I'm pretty sure slaphappy can't stand me so i've heard thru the grapevine. Quote
layton Posted July 30, 2004 Posted July 30, 2004 p.s. Thanks for calling me on that, however. feel free to dish it, i can take it. Quote
JoshK Posted July 30, 2004 Posted July 30, 2004 (edited) car to car is the way to go on this baby. Yes, cause there is *obviously* no reward for bivying on a high exposed ridge looking across the pickets and other fantastic stuff where you can watch the sunrise and sunset. Clearly it's perfectly reasonable to do in a day, but there are good reasons to take your time to. Who says an overnight requires a big pack. standard pack+light sleeping bag+light pad. Weighs what, 2.5, 3lbs more? With that said, partner and I will be doing this tomorrow car-to-car since we only have one day available. Edited July 30, 2004 by JoshK Quote
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