Sandbag Posted July 28, 2004 Posted July 28, 2004 Can anybody tell me what I might need as far as a rack for Calculus Crack on the apron? I have a full set of cams and 2 sets of nuts, do I need doubles of anything? Is there anything else I should know? I hear its kinda bushy for the first 2 pitches. Thanks. Quote
snoboy Posted July 28, 2004 Posted July 28, 2004 Just be sure to bring up to a number 3 Cramalot for the first pitch of Calculus proper (ie not the "bushy" approach pitches.) Other than that you should be golden. Quote
tomtom Posted July 28, 2004 Posted July 28, 2004 p1 takes big gear (hand+ crack). p2 takes small gear (finger crack) p3 takes medium gear Quote
peas Posted July 28, 2004 Posted July 28, 2004 p1 also has a few trees/bushes to sling, so you can get away with not having too much big gear. It's also pretty easy, so you don't need much gear at all. The first two approach pitches are quite bushy. You can avoid the 2nd one by doing St. Vitus Direct (10a), which is quite nice. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted August 3, 2004 Posted August 3, 2004 Pro to 2 inches. I dont recall ever needing doubles and the corner pitch after the tree stem is harder than the supposed 5.8 finger crack pitch (felt easier to me) up higher. Quote
Dru Posted August 3, 2004 Posted August 3, 2004 climb the first two bush pitches in your mountain masters, change into rock shoes and simulclimb to the top Quote
Mer Posted August 3, 2004 Posted August 3, 2004 Last time I climbed this line I collected several pieces of booty. You could just take a few slings and supliment with pieces abandoned by gumby parties ahead of you. *Disclaimer* The author of this reply intends no offence to existing or former gumbies, bumblies, or newbies. The author has left many fine pieces of booty for others to collect and regulary returns to full and unreserved gumbihood. Undertaking this pitch in no way categorizes you or any members of your party as a gumby, nor does retreating, leaving stuck gear, or dropping gear off this or any other route. Quote
pzack Posted August 4, 2004 Posted August 4, 2004 p1 also has a few trees/bushes to sling, so you can get away with not having too much big gear. It's also pretty easy, so you don't need much gear at all. The first two approach pitches are quite bushy. You can avoid the 2nd one by doing St. Vitus Direct (10a), which is quite nice. I did this by mistake. It was my second time trad leading, and my first time in Squamish. I was thinking, "Man, Squamish 5.8 is tight!" I don't remember placing big gear on the first (true) pitch either. Quote
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