[TR] Mount Thompson / Thomson- 7/20/2004

[neswstar]

Climb: Mount Thompson / Thomson-

 

Date of Climb: 7/20/2004

 

Trip Report:

Looking for beta regarding snow levels. Are the lakes still frozen? Do I need to bring a shovel/ ice axe/crampons for a planned trip this weekend? Any info on bumblebee pass?

thank you for the help.

[klenke]

Shovel? No way!

Crampons? Probably not. There is a steep 100+ ft descent off of the north side of Bumblebee Pass that could be snow but it is certainly glissadable (good run out in case you can't stop).

Ice axe: Probably a good idea (see above comment).

I highly doubt the lakes are still frozen.

 

Note that you can do Thomson (note that this is the correct spelling) car-to-car in a day from the Commonwealth Creek approach to the Kendall Catwalk.

[zoroastr]

Apart from small, useful trailside remnants, the way to Bumblebee is totally snow free. As Klenke sez, any snow left in the actual Thomson basin will only improve your speed getting to the start of the climb. What r u doing? West Ridge? ...my fave! In fact, I'd love to repeat on this route with anyone who feels confident they can follow the mythical Commonwealth shortcut all the way to the Katwalk. I usually take the Commonwealth "abandoned" spur as far as the point where it joins the PCT, but I would like to ferret out the much talked about thru trail.

[neswstar]

West ridge - that's the plan. Have not done it before but love the area.

 

We'd like to try going in the Commonwealth trail and cut some time. Does anyone out there have any advice on this? We are heading in Friday after work - so am reluctant to do too much exploring. Is the first part of the trail is identifialble? How hard is the rest of it to find? is it easy to lose part way thru? Does it really exist or has it been abandoned? Anybody have it maked on a map? - any info would be welcomed. thank you

[gslater]

You mean like this? Super-secret link

[specialed]

Shovel? No way!

Crampons? Probably not. There is a steep 100+ ft descent off of the north side of Bumblebee Pass that could be snow but it is certainly glissadable (good run out in case you can't stop).

Ice axe: Probably a good idea (see above comment).

I highly doubt the lakes are still frozen.

 

Note that you can do Thomson (note that this is the correct spelling) car-to-car in a day from the Commonwealth Creek approach to the Kendall Catwalk.

 

Shit. I did it via PCT in 6 hrs. car-car. Defenitly isn't any snow, but that would be funny if you brought crampons and boots and shit for what is little more than a long hike.

[zoroastr]

You might as well stick to the PCT if you're new to the area--the Commonwealth basin trail does cut alot of time, but there's also some serious potential for getting lost if you're not familiar with the topography or and/or good at working your map/compass. The bigger challenge for the first-timer is finding Bumblebee Pass. Here's what you do: Assuming you've opted for the regular PCT, right after the trail passes the shore of little Ridge Lake and starts to traverse a large boulder/scree slope, start taking note of your distance. You'll start noticing occasional shallow, rock-filled gullies that lead all the way down to Alaska Lake [lake is on your right, large, and several hundred feet below]. Bumblebee Pass is actually the top of one of these gullies, but it's located...I would guess maybe 1/2 mile from Ridge Lake along the PCT. The point where you leave the trail and head up to the pass is also located at a bend in the trail and the climbers' path is visible to the discerning eye. It was also flagged with a small yellow ribbon as of last weekend.

 

--hope this helps

[neswstar]

thank you

[gyselinck]

Don't bring an axe, all the snow is gone. I scrambled up the east ridge yesterday. I wasen't sure what the date was when I signed the register, so if you read this can you please change my entry to the 22nd. It currently reads July ?? 2004.

 

Hey Klenke, I think I know you. Are you the one that I talked to about climbing the chimney on Mount Si last winter? I think you work with my unlce and used to work with my dad?

[klenke]

Gyselinck: which Gyselinck are you? I know several of you yahoos: Glenn, Will, Craig, Cindy. You must be Craig since Craig's dad is Will and Craig's uncle is Glenn. I used to work with Will, Glenn, & Cindy when with Primex in 1999.

[gyselinck]

Me be Craig.

[neswstar]

Thanks everyone for all the help. Disappointing first attempt at leading an alpine climb - got lost - got started in the wrong spot - took my first leader fall - kept climbing, but ended up peeling off - left 2 nuts, 3 biners and webbing ( all good pieces - if you are the one with the booty, although the oval is a little old). All in all a great trip - the lake was delicious(wish I brought my air mattress), the weather perfect, and got in some good exercise. Lots of lessons learned - I'll be back.

[layton]

Thanks everyone for all the help. Disappointing first attempt at leading an alpine climb - got lost - got started in the wrong spot - took my first leader fall - kept climbing, but ended up peeling off - left 2 nuts, 3 biners and webbing ( all good pieces - if you are the one with the booty, although the oval is a little old). All in all a great trip - the lake was delicious(wish I brought my air mattress), the weather perfect, and got in some good exercise. Lots of lessons learned - I'll be back.

 

What happened?!?!?

[gyselinck]

I tried to climb the west ridge about three weeks ago and also got lost. We made it to the giant slab before coming back down. I lost 3 sown runners

(I wasn’t planning on rappelling the route) and 4 carabineers. The trip cost me about 50 dollars worth of gear. Did you do make the same mistake that we did and traverse over to the webbing from the top of the first pitch?

[AJScott]

from that large slab you want to go around climbers left of the ridge...there is a obvious climbers trail...easy "climbing" then your at a final notch below the summit.

[layton]

[specialed]

Mt. Thompson = Booty Peak

[neswstar]

You guys make me laugh ( and also not feel so bad about peeling) . It least you got off the ground. We started below the actual climb in a gully full of loose rock. Bad news - but GREAT weekend!!

 

On to new adventures - Have any of you done west wilmans spire or vesper peak? are they comparable? How would you rate for a beginner alpine lead climber? Similar route finding issues?

[mtngrrrl]

I wouldn't really consider Vesper a "beginner" peak if you do the climbing route (as opposed to the scramble/hike), but it would probably be a great experience if you're with someone who is more experienced. Route-finding can be an issue for the start. As a newbie, you might find the short but steepish glacier crossing and the north face looming above you to be intimidating, though the climb is fun. Plus since the descent is different than the route, you'll have to lead with a pack on, carrying ice axe, crampons and all your other stuff instead of leaving your pack at the bottom and coming back to it.

 

The Tooth, Kangaroo Temple and Ingalls are more like "beginner" alpine routes to me and good routes to cut your teeth on.

 

YMMV. Depends on what you're a beginner at -- climbing technique, gear placement & anchors, route-finding, etc.

 

Have fun!

[gyselinck]

I did Vesper a couple weeks ago. Feel free to read my trip report.

 

http://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6208

[lunger]

moseyed up the w ridge this morning. needed to get work done this afternoon, so tried the 'super secret shortcut' #1 first. Legend has it you can drive toward Kendall Lakes tread and cut mileage and vert. rolled up logging road opposite Hyak until encountered concrete barrier w/ sign "no motorized vehicles." so resigned to PCT trailhead.

 

once again proving a maxim, "shortcuts are neither." so against better judgement considered legendary shortcut #2, the unmaintained Commonwealth Basin trail. at horse lot appeared 2 potential trailheads. already behind schedule (slept in, doh), i figure if i have to repeat that maxim again, i'll spontaneously self-combust. so opt for the known quantity, the dreaded PCT.

 

uncharacteristically, decided to check out the CW basin trail on the way back--so much for conviction. hearing some folks down there encouraged me. a couple friendly guys back from Red assured me it was straightforward back to the lot, and they were right. you cross the crick twice. much shorter than PCT!! this is that 1 time outta 10, bonafide shortcut! 9 times outta 10 you get slapped, but that 10th time, it's magic, it's wonderful.

 

Approach: see above--take CW basin trail up to PCT, it's shorter. as chucK told me, take a right at the first fork, then left onto PCT (i shoulda done this on the up). on the descent i emerged on the E'erly end of the lot, take this one.

 

there's also an apparent trail that is more to the N. i don't know where this goes. (edited for brevity)

Edited August 3, 2004 by lunger

[gslater]

From the horse lot, go by the PCT sign in the SE(?) corner that gives a distance to Stevens Pass, but go left to get on the Commonwealth instead of following the arrow to the PCT.

 

But I suppose you know that, now that you've come out that way...

[dryad]

Legend has it you can drive toward Kendall Lakes tread and cut mileage and vert. rolled up logging road opposite Hyak until encountered concrete barrier w/ sign "no motorized vehicles." so resigned to PCT trailhead.

Thinking of heading up there this weekend. Is that road closure a permanent thing now? If by chance the road is now open, is it passable by puny vehicles?

[Alpinfox]

 

Dryad,

The road is semi-permanently closed (big concrete blocks). If you have a small 4X4 (jeep, etc) you could probably get around the blocks. If you don't choose that option, go for the Commonwealth Basin trail. It saves some time and is in pretty good shape. Not that hard to find either.

[dryad]

Puny vehicle = Toyota Echo

 

Am I doomed?