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Suggestions for moderate bolted leads


jawon

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The wife wants to practice more outdoor bolted leads. Any recommendations (other than Exit 32/38 or vantage) where we could hang out all day and tick off several 5.8 and 5.9 single-pitch bolted lines? And it'd be ideal if there were a sprinkling of 5.10's for her belay slave!

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Any recommendations (other than Exit 32/38 or vantage) where we could hang out all day and tick off several 5.8 and 5.9 single-pitch bolted lines? And it'd be ideal if there were a sprinkling of 5.10's for her belay slave!

 

You just passed over 100's of routes and lots in your target zone.... but sure Chek, Smith, Skaha, etc. will scratch your itch as well.

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either the mclane whistler guide or the new bourdon squamish select has detail.

 

you can get online topos for a lot of chek at squamishclimbing.com the sporto website. dr.topo is useless and plagiarized info anyway.

 

chek has some good 5.8s and 5.9s and 10as and then a whole host of good 10s and 11s and 12s and some chipped out 13s and 14s.

 

another area that would fit the bill is cal-cheak up closer to whistler. there are a bunch of new sport crags detailed in the bourdon guide with grades sub. 5.10 created by the whistler gym climbers for a good place for new leaders to go outside. then there are some excellent 5.10s and 5.11s as well. even some good trad. my fave cliff there is "pulp fiction"

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From Keen acres you can head across the gully to Duty Dome for some excellent bolted pitches or up to Picaboo tower for a well bolted adventure. The WF of Picaboo is classic (some gear required) with a slab, some jugs, a short flaring OW (JT 5.6),some handcrack, a bit of bolted face and awkward runout arete to the finish.

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