Toast Posted July 12, 2004 Share Posted July 12, 2004 (edited) Climb: Burgandy Spire-North Face Date of Climb: 7/11/2004 Trip Report: Chris_W and I climbed Burgundy Spire this weekend. This was my first time up one of the Wine Spires, but it won't be my last... good quality granite, stupendous views and fun exposure. Drive time was about 3 ½ hours from Everett with a stop for biscuits and gravy at Swede Heaven. The hike up took us about 4 hours. The trail up was in good shape and not hard to find. We got to Burgundy Col in time to climb Vasiliki Tower to catch a view of the route. Nonetheless, we got off route in the morning and climbed the immediate spire that led to a dead end. Notes for those who follow, veer off to the right on the first pitch and shoot for the break between Paisano Pinnacle. We did get off route a few more times due to pilot error, but the route descriptions are pretty straight forward in hindsight. There are two well protected bivy spots at the col and two more that are a little more wind exposed. Whoever was up there last left a brown coil on the sandy ledge half ways up the route (motherfucker ) Gear Notes: Basic alpine rack (we had a set of nuts, a couple of TCU's, and Camalots 0.5 - 3.0). There's no snow right now, so no need for ice axe or crampons. Snow's going fast and there's no water nearby. you might have to hike a bit for hydration. Approach Notes: Trail is in good shape and very apparent. Edited July 12, 2004 by Toast Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkemp Posted July 12, 2004 Share Posted July 12, 2004 Nice, way to go man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin_B Posted July 12, 2004 Share Posted July 12, 2004 A true cc.com fanatic!! Posting a TR at 2 AM in the morning after getting back from a trip. Nice work Tony and Chris! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Posted July 12, 2004 Share Posted July 12, 2004 I talked with you guys just after you touched down. I've done the same thing, going all the way up that first gendarme. It's such good climbing, why not? BTW, we got in to Marblemount just before the Good Food place was closing. The lady asked if there were any more of us out there. I mentioned there were two other guys on their way - did you find some food? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_w Posted July 12, 2004 Share Posted July 12, 2004 We got to the shell station at 10:15pm and had a microwave burrito and breakfast sandwich. Washed it down with a red bull to stay awake. No Good Food. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squid Posted July 13, 2004 Share Posted July 13, 2004 Nice job, Mounties! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_w Posted July 16, 2004 Share Posted July 16, 2004 Here are some pics I put a TR with more pictures on my website Shakingleg.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted July 16, 2004 Share Posted July 16, 2004 Whoa! Great pics! Number 2 is especially prizeworthy (if only Tony was wearing more red ). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle_Tricky Posted July 16, 2004 Share Posted July 16, 2004 Nice pics kids. I was up there this week, (didn't do the number 2 on the ledge tho!) and man, some of the alternate last pitch finishing options look pretty cool, like the wide clean 5.8 chimney lieback you rap past or the 9/10a flaring squeeze chimney--wow! I'd have to say that I was a bit dissapointed at the ratio of 3rd-4th choss scrambling to nice solid rock on the climb tho. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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