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[TR] Burgandy Spire- North Face 7/11/2004


Toast

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Climb: Burgandy Spire-North Face

 

Date of Climb: 7/11/2004

 

Trip Report:

Chris_W and I climbed Burgundy Spire this weekend. This was my first time up one of the Wine Spires, but it won't be my last... good quality granite, stupendous views and fun exposure. Drive time was about 3 ½ hours from Everett with a stop for biscuits and gravy at Swede Heaven. The hike up took us about 4 hours. The trail up was in good shape and not hard to find. We got to Burgundy Col in time to climb Vasiliki Tower to catch a view of the route. Nonetheless, we got off route in the morning and climbed the immediate spire that led to a dead end. Notes for those who follow, veer off to the right on the first pitch and shoot for the break between Paisano Pinnacle. We did get off route a few more times due to pilot error, but the route descriptions are pretty straight forward in hindsight. There are two well protected bivy spots at the col and two more that are a little more wind exposed. Whoever was up there last left a brown coil on the sandy ledge half ways up the route (motherfucker madgo_ron.gif)

 

Gear Notes:

Basic alpine rack (we had a set of nuts, a couple of TCU's, and Camalots 0.5 - 3.0). There's no snow right now, so no need for ice axe or crampons. Snow's going fast and there's no water nearby. you might have to hike a bit for hydration.

 

Approach Notes:

Trail is in good shape and very apparent.

Edited by Toast
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I talked with you guys just after you touched down. I've done the same thing, going all the way up that first gendarme. It's such good climbing, why not? BTW, we got in to Marblemount just before the Good Food place was closing. The lady asked if there were any more of us out there. I mentioned there were two other guys on their way - did you find some food?

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Nice pics kids. I was up there this week, (didn't do the number 2 on the ledge tho!) and man, some of the alternate last pitch finishing options look pretty cool, like the wide clean 5.8 chimney lieback you rap past or the 9/10a flaring squeeze chimney--wow!

 

I'd have to say that I was a bit dissapointed at the ratio of 3rd-4th choss scrambling to nice solid rock on the climb tho.

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