Dru Posted July 7, 2004 Posted July 7, 2004 This particular dreamy line had a 10 minute approach from the drop off. Quote
Dru Posted July 7, 2004 Author Posted July 7, 2004 some of the best problems are more than 5 minutes walk from the parking lot! Â i mean they pay money to fly mountain bikes into the alpine for video shoots- why not mats? Quote
specialed Posted July 7, 2004 Posted July 7, 2004 If you had an opportunity for a heli-ride to anywhere in the Cascades or various assorted ranges in BC and you chose to go bouldering ... Â you deserve a hot sausage enema. Quote
Dru Posted July 7, 2004 Author Posted July 7, 2004 Bouldering is fun. Admittedly there was this sweet three-pitch-high, 500-meter-long cliff 10 minutes uphill from the boulder in question - but in general it's a sad group of climbers who, on getting flown into basecamp, would refuse to send all the problems on the local boulders in between summiting. Quote
specialed Posted July 7, 2004 Posted July 7, 2004 Fuck that. I'd rather put the time and energy into a line on the 500 ft. cliff than wanking off on contrived rubble. Boulderings for drinking beer after work when you don't have time to go real climbing. Quote
Dru Posted July 7, 2004 Author Posted July 7, 2004 "bouldering is the synthesis of all skills needed for climbing" - Ron Kauk Quote
specialed Posted July 7, 2004 Posted July 7, 2004 "bouldering is the synthesis of all skills needed for climbing [in Yosemite Valley]" - Ron Kauk  Kauk's a burnout hippy from So Cal. Quote
Dru Posted July 7, 2004 Author Posted July 7, 2004 Â "Lets go bouldering while we waitfor this rain to end" Jeff Jackson "Bouldering?" Scott Cosgrove "Yeah, you know - bouldering. A form of climbing you can do without ropes or protection." Kurt Smith "Are you insane? Out here a broken ankle could be fatal!" - Cos Quote
fenderfour Posted July 7, 2004 Posted July 7, 2004 "bouldering is the synthesis of all skills needed for climbing [in Yosemite Valley]" - Ron Kauk  I could be wrong, but unless you are Peter Croft you will probably need to set at least a few pieces of pro and maybe make an anchor or two... Quote
Bittertrad Posted July 9, 2004 Posted July 9, 2004 Let's face it, people. Those who hate bouldering hate it because they are weak and suck at it. That's why they alpine climb, trad climb, etc. That's sure as hell why I do it. There's nothing wrong with being weak and shitty at bouldering. But don't try to make it into some elitist virtue; admit your shortcomings and give props where props are due. I'm more inspired by climbing multipitch trad 11s way high on a big rock, but only because trad 5.11 - after years of deluding myself into thinking I am better than a run-of-the-mill traddy - seems to be all I can do. My ego isn't so snivelliing and weak that I have to tell myself I don't boulder because long cracks are cooler or harder than climbing v10. Quote
Distel32 Posted July 9, 2004 Posted July 9, 2004 Let's face it, people. Those who hate bouldering hate it because they are weak and suck at it. That's why they alpine climb, trad climb, etc. That's sure as hell why I do it. There's nothing wrong with being weak and shitty at bouldering. But don't try to make it into some elitist virtue; admit your shortcomings and give props where props are due. I'm more inspired by climbing multipitch trad 11s way high on a big rock, but only because trad 5.11 - after years of deluding myself into thinking I am better than a run-of-the-mill traddy - seems to be all I can do. My ego isn't so snivelliing and weak that I have to tell myself I don't boulder because long cracks are cooler or harder than climbing v10. Â oohhhh yeah. now thats a good post! Â yeah I got my ass kicked trad climbing last weekend. Quote
Dru Posted July 10, 2004 Author Posted July 10, 2004 mileage. who gets more rock mileage under their belt - a boulderer sessioning on a 15 foot high problem for a couple of hours or a party climbing a 20 pitch route in a day ? Â or as jack fieldhouse once told me referring to something on mt. dickson "i hiked 4 hours up this ridge to a two move problem and then hiked another 2 hours to the top" Quote
ashw_justin Posted July 10, 2004 Posted July 10, 2004 I think bouldering is awesome. It's the quickest (and safest!) way to get good at doing really hard moves. But I think it lacks depth, and a sense of adventure. It's also a discipline in which you pretty much expect to fall A LOT, which is just not acceptable in contrasting modes of climbing, such as big trad routes. Â Plus you can boulder all day and kick all kinds of ass but there's neither an amazing alpine panorama at the end, nor an 8-mile stumble back to the car. Quote
Szyjakowski Posted July 10, 2004 Posted July 10, 2004 bouldering is practice for "real climbing." Quote
Distel32 Posted July 10, 2004 Posted July 10, 2004 Plus you can boulder all day and kick all kinds of ass but there's neither an amazing alpine panorama at the end, nor an 8-mile stumble back to the car.  both not true  plus when doing highballs you learn not to fall. Quote
Dru Posted July 10, 2004 Author Posted July 10, 2004 bouldering is practice for "real climbing." Â thats like saying that masturbation is practice for sex. i bet all the wankers tell themselves that! Quote
ashw_justin Posted July 10, 2004 Posted July 10, 2004 Plus you can boulder all day and kick all kinds of ass but there's neither an amazing alpine panorama at the end, nor an 8-mile stumble back to the car.  both not true  So you're telling me that you've done an 8-mile approach to a boulder problem? Quote
cracked Posted July 10, 2004 Posted July 10, 2004 Plus you can boulder all day and kick all kinds of ass but there's neither an amazing alpine panorama at the end, nor an 8-mile stumble back to the car.  both not true  plus when doing highballs you learn not to fall. Face it, Luke, the VAST MAJORITY of boulder problems lack exactly what Justin was saying. Quote
snoboy Posted July 10, 2004 Posted July 10, 2004  "Lets go bouldering while we waitfor this rain to end" Jeff Jackson "Bouldering?" Scott Cosgrove "Yeah, you know - bouldering. A form of climbing you can do without ropes or protection." Kurt Smith "Are you insane? Out here a broken ankle could be fatal!" - Cos  In the Cirque? Quote
Szyjakowski Posted July 10, 2004 Posted July 10, 2004 bouldering is practice for "real climbing." Â thats like saying that masturbation is practice for sex. exactly right, both forms really don't satisfy the inner fire. Quote
Dru Posted July 23, 2004 Author Posted July 23, 2004 i just spent the last two days heli-cragging and heli-bouldering  cork boots are aid! Quote
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