alpine_freak Posted May 28, 2004 Share Posted May 28, 2004 so , i thank you for all the ideas from yesterdays question (see message board) but i'm wondering, where some medium approaches ( 6 hourish with then some 5.5 - 5.7 climbs?) You see i love the HUCK in as well, its like your on this whole (lord o the rings quest or something) does anyone feel me out there? thanks AF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted May 28, 2004 Share Posted May 28, 2004 I've always wanted to do the Macrabe-Matiarche-Grimface traverse up in Canada just above the Okanogan. See the red beckey guide or ask Dru. 7 hour approach, to long mid-5th ridge traverse. Looks amazing. In the Swatooths of Idaho there are many remote low-5th climbing objectives. Warbonnet Peak (II 5.6) was one of the finest trips I ever did, didn't see a soul. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted May 28, 2004 Share Posted May 28, 2004 The MMG traverse is alpine but not very "adventuorous" with minimal bush on the approach and guide-placed bolts strewn all over the route including on 3rd classs slabs and next to cracks Sure is nice area though! Sure is fun route anyway! You can do it all in hiking boots. Don't forget at least 2 long slings for the 2 bolt bolt ladder. The Beckey topo is near perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted May 28, 2004 Share Posted May 28, 2004 Idaho... mmmm... Did you climb on elephant's perch while you were in there? We need an Idaho Forum! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted May 28, 2004 Share Posted May 28, 2004 the Viennese to Clarke traverse in the Chehalis would be another good'un at about one pitch of 5.8 and lots easier. See Alpine Select. Oh yes you also get full on bush approach on this one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted May 28, 2004 Share Posted May 28, 2004 Chimney Rock (WA), via either the East Face or the North Face. North Face is easier approachwise and climbingwise. I think. I haven't done the East Face but have heard many stories. Depending on your speed, the W. Ridge of Sherpa (already mentioned) and/or N Ridge of Burgundy Spire might fit your six hour requirement , as would NE Butt Triumph. And of course, W Ridge of Prussik fits your requirements perfectly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rad Posted June 1, 2004 Share Posted June 1, 2004 W/the washout Forbidden West ridge should have the approach you seek. If you can handle one pitch of 5.8 w/great gear then do the E ridge - it's one of my absolute favorites. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted June 1, 2004 Share Posted June 1, 2004 I 2nd east ridge direct. Very fun climbing. Just be prepared to spend longer than you would think for 400vf of climbing. With all the gendarmes you climb more than you would think. Go down the west ridge if you want to do a mountain tour, otherwise the east ridge ledges decent is not as bad as everybody says, just be careful! A slip would certainly suck. I'd watch out for it with snow, however. I imagine it would be sketchorama. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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