Peter_Puget Posted May 26, 2004 Share Posted May 26, 2004 Accoding to the handbook how many bolts SHOULD this route have? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pandora Posted May 26, 2004 Share Posted May 26, 2004 At least 12. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badvoodoo Posted May 26, 2004 Share Posted May 26, 2004 Don't forget the bolt at 2' to protect the sit-start! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted May 27, 2004 Share Posted May 27, 2004 Does anyone really think the spotters and crash pad are going to matter in a fall from that height? What is that, like, five or six body lengths? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken4ord Posted May 27, 2004 Share Posted May 27, 2004 They are there for the picture, come on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted May 27, 2004 Share Posted May 27, 2004 yeah, whos gonna protect those spotters? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ketch Posted May 27, 2004 Share Posted May 27, 2004 You missed it those arent spotters, there worshippers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted May 27, 2004 Share Posted May 27, 2004 that person climbed up the backside and is hanging off a hidden jug. notice lack of chalk marks on the way up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distel32 Posted May 27, 2004 Share Posted May 27, 2004 uhhhh I don't know how much you guys boulder but spotters will definitely help. Pads depending on how many they have. If they have 2 or 3 on top of one another then it will protect from shattered ankles. Spotters will protect from him rolling down the chossy hill, since it is straight up he'll be pitching pretty vertical. I've taken some falls from about 18' and pads definitely help. I think that problem is Black Magiv V5???? is that correct PP? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted May 27, 2004 Share Posted May 27, 2004 Closer to 3 body lengths. As for the worshippers, I would rather hit them than those pointy things behind them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distel32 Posted May 27, 2004 Share Posted May 27, 2004 werd, I'd say its about 21ft or so. give or take a foot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashw_justin Posted May 27, 2004 Share Posted May 27, 2004 So on my screen the guy measures 3.5 cm. From the dirt to the top of the boulder measures 15 cm. Straighten him out and maybe he'd measure 4 cm, so 15/4 rounds up to 4 body lengths. If he's 6 feet tall, the boulder is somewhere around 22.5 feet high. Which comes pretty close to Distel's 21. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted May 27, 2004 Share Posted May 27, 2004 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoboy Posted May 27, 2004 Share Posted May 27, 2004 I don't think you could keep the guy off the ground if he fell, (DUH!) but I think good spotter could do a couple of things that might help the guy out. 1 - Give him a nudge as he's falling to make sure he lands on the pads. 2 - keep him from cracking his head open... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashw_justin Posted May 27, 2004 Share Posted May 27, 2004 ...so the speed at which the climber hits the ground according to the formula v=(2ad)^0.5 would be 32.6 ft/sec, or 22.2 mi/hr. Keeping in mind that this is independent of the climber's mass (even for someone of cracked's proportions). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted May 27, 2004 Share Posted May 27, 2004 You guys need a hobby. Might I suggest climbing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distel32 Posted May 27, 2004 Share Posted May 27, 2004 oohhhh oohhhh meeee meeee! how hard would I fall if I jumped off this: approximately 40ft high, I weigh 148. best boulder problem ever! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashw_justin Posted May 27, 2004 Share Posted May 27, 2004 hmm... well I'll have to factor in the decrease in the force due to gravity for boulderers (mass*7.2 m/sec^2 vs. mass*9.8 m/s^2, for regular people) when they are below 20 feet, so I'm gonna say, approximately pretty hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distel32 Posted May 27, 2004 Share Posted May 27, 2004 werd thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashw_justin Posted May 27, 2004 Share Posted May 27, 2004 So maybe there should be R and X ratings on boulder problems... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted May 27, 2004 Share Posted May 27, 2004 Yo Justin, you're smoking crack. Check this shit out: a(t) = -32.2 m/s^2 v(t) = -32.2t + v0 x(t) = -16.1(t^2) + v0t + x0 v0 = 0 , x0 = 22.5ft, defining x to be the vertical axis and '0' to be at the ground level. So. -22.5=-16.1(t^2) t=1.18216560936s Substituting t into the equasion for v, we get v(1.18216560936) = -32.2(1.18216560936) = -38.0657326214 ft/s or 25.9539 mi/hr, if you prefer such arcane units. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashw_justin Posted May 27, 2004 Share Posted May 27, 2004 No way dude, I measured from the bottom of his feet to the ground (16.5 feet)!! You smoking the crack colij boyee! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distel32 Posted May 27, 2004 Share Posted May 27, 2004 there are. Normally in a book it will have a little skull or a "fluttering heart" Highballs get the little cute heart, skulls are X ratings pretty much. Problems where you need at least 3+ pads plus spotters. For instance Evilution gets an X rating or a solo rating. Problems like High Plains Drifter or Golden Shower both pictured above get an R type rating just because they are high. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashw_justin Posted May 27, 2004 Share Posted May 27, 2004 I'm using the funky eq. V^2 = Vo^2 + 2ad where Vo = 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted May 27, 2004 Share Posted May 27, 2004 Yeah, but he doesn't stop as soon as his feet hit the ground! Gotta measure from center of mass to center of mass; I was assuming that he ends up lying on the ground, CM effectively at 0. And his CM is very close to the top of the boulder in the pic! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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