So DFA

[Peter_Puget]

 

 

Accoding to the handbook how many bolts SHOULD this route have?

[Pandora]

At least 12.

[badvoodoo]

Don't forget the bolt at 2' to protect the sit-start!

[sobo]

Does anyone really think the spotters and crash pad are going to matter in a fall from that height?

 

What is that, like, five or six body lengths?

[ken4ord]

They are there for the picture, come on.

[Szyjakowski]

yeah, whos gonna protect those spotters?

[ketch]

You missed it those arent spotters, there worshippers.

[Dru]

that person climbed up the backside and is hanging off a hidden jug. notice lack of chalk marks on the way up

[Distel32]

uhhhh I don't know how much you guys boulder but spotters will definitely help. Pads depending on how many they have. If they have 2 or 3 on top of one another then it will protect from shattered ankles. Spotters will protect from him rolling down the chossy hill, since it is straight up he'll be pitching pretty vertical. I've taken some falls from about 18' and pads definitely help.

 

I think that problem is Black Magiv V5???? is that correct PP?

[ScottP]

Closer to 3 body lengths.

As for the worshippers, I would rather hit them than those pointy things behind them.

[Distel32]

werd, I'd say its about 21ft or so. give or take a foot.

[ashw_justin]

So on my screen the guy measures 3.5 cm. From the dirt to the top of the boulder measures 15 cm. Straighten him out and maybe he'd measure 4 cm, so 15/4 rounds up to 4 body lengths. If he's 6 feet tall, the boulder is somewhere around 22.5 feet high. Which comes pretty close to Distel's 21.

[cracked]

[snoboy]

I don't think you could keep the guy off the ground if he fell, (DUH!) but I think good spotter could do a couple of things that might help the guy out.

 

1 - Give him a nudge as he's falling to make sure he lands on the pads.

 

2 - keep him from cracking his head open...

[ashw_justin]

...so the speed at which the climber hits the ground according to the formula v=(2ad)^0.5 would be 32.6 ft/sec, or 22.2 mi/hr. Keeping in mind that this is independent of the climber's mass (even for someone of cracked's proportions).

[Alpinfox]

 

You guys need a hobby.

 

Might I suggest climbing?

[Distel32]

oohhhh oohhhh meeee meeee! how hard would I fall if I jumped off this:

 

 

approximately 40ft high, I weigh 148.

 

best boulder problem ever!

[ashw_justin]

hmm... well I'll have to factor in the decrease in the force due to gravity for boulderers (mass*7.2 m/sec^2 vs. mass*9.8 m/s^2, for regular people) when they are below 20 feet, so I'm gonna say, approximately pretty hard.

[Distel32]

werd thanks

 

[ashw_justin]

So maybe there should be R and X ratings on boulder problems...

[cracked]

Yo Justin, you're smoking crack. Check this shit out:

 

a(t) = -32.2 m/s^2

v(t) = -32.2t + v0

x(t) = -16.1(t^2) + v0t + x0

 

v0 = 0 , x0 = 22.5ft, defining x to be the vertical axis and '0' to be at the ground level.

 

So.

-22.5=-16.1(t^2)

 

t=1.18216560936s

 

Substituting t into the equasion for v, we get

 

v(1.18216560936) = -32.2(1.18216560936) = -38.0657326214 ft/s

 

or 25.9539 mi/hr, if you prefer such arcane units.

[ashw_justin]

No way dude, I measured from the bottom of his feet to the ground (16.5 feet)!! You smoking the crack colij boyee!

[Distel32]

there are. Normally in a book it will have a little skull or a "fluttering heart"

 

Highballs get the little cute heart, skulls are X ratings pretty much. Problems where you need at least 3+ pads plus spotters. For instance Evilution gets an X rating or a solo rating. Problems like High Plains Drifter or Golden Shower both pictured above get an R type rating just because they are high.

[ashw_justin]

I'm using the funky eq. V^2 = Vo^2 + 2ad where Vo = 0

[cracked]

Yeah, but he doesn't stop as soon as his feet hit the ground! Gotta measure from center of mass to center of mass; I was assuming that he ends up lying on the ground, CM effectively at 0. And his CM is very close to the top of the boulder in the pic!