fenderfour Posted May 21, 2004 Share Posted May 21, 2004 This should go in the NEW Aid Climbing Forum, but oh well... I'm interested in trying out some easier aid climbs in the area and I here that City Park can be lead with a couple of sets of nuts. I haven't had a chance to look at the route yet. Is this true? About how long should I expect to take climbing the route as an aid climbing gaper? Any info is appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shapp Posted May 21, 2004 Share Posted May 21, 2004 If you are new to aid you better take more than 2 sets of nuts, probably a few small TCUs and 1 each of a 1, 1.5, and 2 inch cam. With cam hooks you should be able to cruz this thing in less than an hour for your very first time. When you get used to cam hooks you could totaly do it with two sets of nuts. If you don't use cam hooks and haven't really aided you better have a patient belayer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted May 21, 2004 Share Posted May 21, 2004 If your new to aid, City Park is a good climb to start on. To lead the route in comfortable style, bring 2 sets of nuts, with triples in nut size 4-5. Bring cams to 2 with doubles in small TCU's purple, blue and yellow. You can also use the larger size HB offsets brass nuts. Bring plenty of QDs and extra biners and you should have fun. I've found cam hooks to work in the first 15 feet of the crack but the side of the crack are rounded and its hard to get a solid cam hook. If you want to cam hook and use small gear and nut placements, 10% is a good aid route. Although not, its C2 and a little more difficult then City park but it is much shorter. Another thing you might consider is to find a free climb and aid it. Best to find a crackin the 5.11 range, they usually take thin aiding gear ir aid something easier just to get the feel. Have fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted May 21, 2004 Share Posted May 21, 2004 Those kind enough to rope solo their aid climbs will appreciate the hangerless bolt drilled under the big boulder at the base. bring your own hanger and nut... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwalling Posted May 21, 2004 Share Posted May 21, 2004 Why did there need to be bolt added to the boulder? There is a good ladder to belay off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted May 21, 2004 Share Posted May 21, 2004 cuz gawd said drill thee rock!!!!! no matta you can't see the bolt unless you look for it....or some kind friend shows it to ya. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomtom Posted May 21, 2004 Share Posted May 21, 2004 Yup, fodder for THE NEW AID CLIMBING FORUM . On my first time up, I used a small cam and a tricam to get to the bolt ladder, nuts up the crack (Trango Brassies rock), and another small cam as the last placement to the bolts. 2 hrs up, 1/2 hr of futzing at the belay and cleaning on the way down. Bring a small hammer to help with nut extraction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shapp Posted May 21, 2004 Share Posted May 21, 2004 I don't mean to spray TimL, but I soloed City Park with cam hooks. I think I placed about 10 peices for pro. I have leeper hooks, maybe you have the Pika suckass cam hooks. I didn't usue or see a bolt at the bottom. I set a few pieces in the crack at the bottom right of the boulder and freed up the bolt ladder, tied off two of the bolts to back up my anchor at the bottom and started camming hooking like a mofo. It took me about half an our to do the route. I basically used the cam hooks and crack jummared texas style. Stand up and place the hook attached to my harness. Site down. Move next hook up attached to aiders and stand up. On city park this could also be done with one or two small TCUs at the end of each daisy instead of the cam hooks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted May 21, 2004 Share Posted May 21, 2004 shapp, at what point did you pass groundfall potential? Yes, its true people often whip right up City Park. However, this thread is about someone learning to aid climb, and asking about City Park as a good learning tool. As such, let em sew it up and learn how to bounce something before they crater their first day out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted May 21, 2004 Share Posted May 21, 2004 I don't mean to spray TimL, but I soloed City Park with cam hooks. I think I placed about 10 peices for pro. I have leeper hooks, maybe you have the Pika suckass cam hooks. I didn't usue or see a bolt at the bottom. I set a few pieces in the crack at the bottom right of the boulder and freed up the bolt ladder, tied off two of the bolts to back up my anchor at the bottom and started camming hooking like a mofo. It took me about half an our to do the route. I basically used the cam hooks and crack jummared texas style. Stand up and place the hook attached to my harness. Site down. Move next hook up attached to aiders and stand up. On city park this could also be done with one or two small TCUs at the end of each daisy instead of the cam hooks. More or less the guy asking for beta is learning to aid climb and its going to be weird, and he might be scared as shit on c1 placements, I know I was when I first started aiding. My beta was so the guy could do it comfortably while learning. Cam hooking and speed climbing will follow as experience is gained. I've soloed the route around 20 times and feel like my rack recommendations will get him through the business comfortably. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted May 21, 2004 Author Share Posted May 21, 2004 Thanks guys. I will definitely be taking a conservative approach on this climb. I may get a couple of cam hooks just to play with. They look pretty freakin cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 21, 2004 Share Posted May 21, 2004 I don't mean to spray TimL, but I soloed City Park with cam hooks. I think I placed about 10 peices for pro. I have leeper hooks, maybe you have the Pika suckass cam hooks. I didn't usue or see a bolt at the bottom. I set a few pieces in the crack at the bottom right of the boulder and freed up the bolt ladder, tied off two of the bolts to back up my anchor at the bottom and started camming hooking like a mofo. It took me about half an our to do the route. I basically used the cam hooks and crack jummared texas style. Stand up and place the hook attached to my harness. Site down. Move next hook up attached to aiders and stand up. On city park this could also be done with one or two small TCUs at the end of each daisy instead of the cam hooks. More or less the guy asking for beta is learning to aid climb and its going to be weird, and he might be scared as shit on c1 placements, I know I was when I first started aiding. My beta was so the guy could do it comfortably while learning. Cam hooking and speed climbing will follow as experience is gained. I've soloed the route around 20 times and feel like my rack recommendations will get him through the business comfortably. Tim...you back? How did it go?? PM me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted May 21, 2004 Share Posted May 21, 2004 Rumr - Back. Spent a couple mor days at the Cookie then went up Lurking Fear but came down because an old shoulder injury started acting up. Still able to free climb but if I would of stayed on the wall, my shoulder would be done for the season. Almost got Red Zinger....again much stuff left for when I get back. Lets get out soon...maybe you can even drag me to E32 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 21, 2004 Share Posted May 21, 2004 cool...i'm heading up to squish this weekend w/ frank for a long route...gonna get peed on, probably wind up at chek w/ every other freak from vancouver... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted May 21, 2004 Share Posted May 21, 2004 Come out to Leavenworthless. I think we are goig to go the Drip Wall and Rattletale areas on Saturday, then maybe a top secret, super dupa project on Sunday or Midnight if it is open yet. If not, maybe we can all go up there and have a scrambled peregrin eggs for breakfast on Sunday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 21, 2004 Share Posted May 21, 2004 i hate 11worth...too much hiking...blech Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted May 21, 2004 Share Posted May 21, 2004 You're both crazy...Vertical World Seattle!...unless of course there be offwidths to climb! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shapp Posted May 22, 2004 Share Posted May 22, 2004 Dude you might as well learn to cam hook cause there aint no point doing it any other way. Cam hooks are here to stay and if you are going to aid climb you should learn to use them first and save yourself a lot of time. Alex, I do not understand what the hell you are talking about. I never had any ground fall potential. My rack recommendation of two sets of stopers, some small TCUs and a 1, 1.5 and 2 inch friend are plenty of gear. Also I will say that you shouldn't be doing aiding unless you are already a compitent free climber that can place bomber gear. Hell, I'll even go with you and belay. Send me a pm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted May 22, 2004 Share Posted May 22, 2004 i hate 11worth...too much hiking...blech Might bulk up yer skinny little legs eh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 22, 2004 Share Posted May 22, 2004 mebbe you need to hike a bit MORE to get rid of your fat arse, now? PING your turn, bizatch... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted May 22, 2004 Share Posted May 22, 2004 Wassamatter, RuMR, can't get out this weekend? Skiing in the rain tomorrow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 22, 2004 Share Posted May 22, 2004 Nope...i'm heading up to squish tomorrow...gonna do sumpin' cool!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted May 22, 2004 Share Posted May 22, 2004 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted May 23, 2004 Share Posted May 23, 2004 sporto wussy Most of the hikes in 11worth are less then the death march up to E32. Have fun and send Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted May 23, 2004 Share Posted May 23, 2004 Nope...i'm heading up to squish tomorrow...gonna do sumpin' cool!!! where/when's the pub club??? or are you sporting underagers again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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