[TR] Squamish - The Squaw- Godforsaken Land 5/15/2

[fern]

Climb: Squamish - The Squaw-Godforsaken Land

 

Date of Climb: 5/15/2004

 

Trip Report:

 

Just some corrections/modifications/additions to the route description in the McLane (1999) guide.

 

Pitch 1: The guide gives a different rating in the text and on the topo, the topo is the more correct one IMO .

 

Pitch 2: As is typical for a Robin Barley route you may find the climbing easier if you don't directly follow the bolt(s).

 

Pitch 3: The text mentions 6 points of aid. There are only 3. A direct variation continues up the arete above where GFSL hand traverses into the corner crack (not described in my guide).

 

Pitch 4: A direct 2 bolt variation straight up from the belay (not described in my guide) is A LOT harder than the standard route that traverses left to a diagonal crack. The upper part of this pitch is quite filthy.

 

Pitch 5: w00t !!

 

It's dumb to argue with star ratings but whatever, I wouldn't agree that this is a *** route, except for maybe the top short pitch. Certainly it is not going very high on my repeat list - though a good scrub would improve it.

 

It was good practice for transitioning from aid to free climbing. Pitches 1+2 are somewhat similar to Life On Earth (Mt. Habrich) style climbing if anyone is curious what that route is like.

 

 

Gear Notes:

All the belays are bolted for rappel (some with just washers and chains though) - probably need 2 ropes to rap though.

 

The middle pitches are fairly long, a few extra slings would be handy. Also yellow metolius sized gear was deployed often.

 

We used real aid etriers and I had an adjustable fifi - I think this helped make the bolt ladders not completely exhausting as they were very reachy for me (5'2") - although the dudes storming up behind us did fine with just regular slings.

 

Approach Notes:

heinous

[thelawgoddess]

[Approach Notes:

heinous

i never liked the approach for the squaw routes i've done either!

[Mer]

Nice, thanks for the info Fern. although I like the approach through the lovely, mossy cedar forest.

 

Hey, is this one of those crags that has to undergo a name change for PC reasons? Maybe "The Squaw" should now be referred to as "The Indigenous, Same-sex Domestic Partner Wall"

[Dru]

There's already the "Indian Queen" on the slab left of Eagle's Domain

[fern]

 

yes and the route should be "Area Neglected and/or Abandoned by Non-Specific Higher Power and/or Deity"

 

I got a good look at Right Wing there Mer - it's all dry and actually not that dirty in the upper sections - you should get on it with your scrubby brush

[Mer]

Would indeed be a good rainy-day project. I might also give a little scrub to the base of "Armed Conflict Occurring in Tropically Vegetated Arena" while I'm there.

[Dru]

If you climbed that latter route on hexes you could rename it Jangle Warfare.

[layton]

I loved this climb and didn't mind the approach at all (i mean come one). I don't remember any aid??? Every pitch was awesome from the 1st really long hard pitch the just won't end, the next sweet corner crack, and the huge move (i had to dyno) above the bolt on the 3rd. AWESOME views of people climbing eagle's dance!

[fern]

 

maybe you are actually thinking of The Great Game Layton? I have heard from others that TGG is a better route.

[layton]

Oh, yeah I was. shit sorry. Yeah link up the bottom pitches of the great game w/godforsaken land. Sorry, I've forgot my roots, eh.

 

p.s. jungle warefare kinda blows, the one that continues eagles domain (birds of paradise?) is way better for the grade.

 

Crap, i miss B.C. and you happy little canuks.

[snoboy]

Wow! I totally disagree with you there layton. JW has one of the cooler pitches in Squish IMO. Birds of Prey OTOH pretty much was a dirty grovel fest-POS! Do Eagle's Domain and then rap off, or head up Pipeline...

[layton]

well i guess it's a matter of opinion.

Here's a photo of Eagles Domain from the Great Game and a photo of a 5.9 pitch on Unfinished Symphony (one of the few sandbags in Squamish-I thought I was on the 11b pitch on the 10ds) Yes, there is a slight camera tilt.

 

 

[jordop]

5 stars for tilt

[layton]

hey, i mentioned there was tilt so i wasn't trying to get away w/anything. it was for the ladies (esp jennifer connelly if she's reading t his)

 

is she married?

[AlpineK]

Yes, there is a slight camera tilt.

...no shit

 

Phototropis has a stronger hand then geotropism, but the shit in that photo is totally out of wack.

[Dru]

Note to Layton, trees growing at a 30 degree angle from vertical look so suck

[fern]

so does anybody know anything about those direct bolts I described on P3 and P4? Is that in the yellow-spined 2001 updated Squamish guide?

 

Also it looks like someone has done a very recent scrub to Freedom Fighter and Insurrection - probably Robin Barley again.

[Mer]

There is a direct line listed in the yellow update. P3 11+ goes out left then runout at 5.10 past the last 3 bolts. P4 straight up at 11+. I've never been on it, don't know if that makes sense.

[Dru]

The new route by Freedom Fighter etc is not Barley scrubbing but a new 5.12 that is in one of the new route books. I think the Climb On one but it might be MEC.

 

Also at the top of GFL area there is the new Skyline Arete which goes up the slab arete I think it is 10d A0?