mvs Posted May 4, 2004 Share Posted May 4, 2004 Climb: Mt. Stuart-Stuart Glacier Couloir Date of Climb: 5/2/2004 Trip Report: The route is in good shape. Easy to cross the 'schrund straight on, but soon you'll have to go to the right side. One axe or tool would be enough for the couloir at this point, as it is all good kick-stepping snow. The West Ridge was fantastic, with 2 enjoyable north side pitches that were snowy with big exposure. We did the rock climb in boots. The traverse to the false summit was very tedious due to baked rotten snow amoung boulders. From there, the rest of the way down the Sherpa Glacier was a piece of pie. No visible 'schrund there yet. Gear Notes: ice ax(s), crampons, medium rack with some pins, 60 m rope doubled for rock pitches. Approach Notes: You can drive to the Stuart Lake trailhead. Continuous snow starts before the Colchuck Lake turnoff. Expect wet boots and socks! danielpatricksmith encountered on a boulderfield traverse. If you see him, he will show the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted May 4, 2004 Share Posted May 4, 2004 I was only a figment of your imagination. I was home watching T.V. Nothing to report. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen_Ramsey Posted May 4, 2004 Share Posted May 4, 2004 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvs Posted May 5, 2004 Author Share Posted May 5, 2004 Here are some pics: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted May 5, 2004 Share Posted May 5, 2004 Any girth pics? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvs Posted May 5, 2004 Author Share Posted May 5, 2004 'frayed knot. the approach via Ice Cliff Glacier looked reasonable though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ade Posted May 6, 2004 Share Posted May 6, 2004 But you must have walked right under the NW Face Couloir. Any ice in it or has it all melted out and not refrozen? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvs Posted May 6, 2004 Author Share Posted May 6, 2004 Yes, it didn't look very icy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CascadeClimber Posted May 6, 2004 Share Posted May 6, 2004 It was just spindrift on rock when we were there. It also didn't at all resemble a couloir- more like a big, slabby face. YMMV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted May 6, 2004 Share Posted May 6, 2004 danielpatricksmith encountered on a boulderfield traverse. If you see him, he will show the way. Oh my god! I also met him, later that week, in the exact same spot! He was hunched over a boulder, mumbling... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted May 6, 2004 Share Posted May 6, 2004 DPS has hair? Somehow he just doesn't sound like a guy who has hair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted May 6, 2004 Share Posted May 6, 2004 I cut it all off. And I bought a 1/2 million dollar house. And I only wear Ralph Lauren now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted May 7, 2004 Share Posted May 7, 2004 I cut it all off. And I bought a 1/2 million dollar house. And I only wear Ralph Lauren now. It's true. I thought he was president of a fraternity house but it turned out to be his. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted May 7, 2004 Share Posted May 7, 2004 MVS: How was the ice step(s)? Comments? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvs Posted May 7, 2004 Author Share Posted May 7, 2004 Piece of pie. first good neve up to the narrowest part of the constriction, then really wet ice over rock that kind of fell apart as we climbed it. We made a quick dry-tool move or two, then were back on easy snow. One axe would be enough, but I enjoyed finally getting to use my "compact grivel 3rd tool." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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