iain Posted May 4, 2004 Posted May 4, 2004 ^^^^ The fuck is this "snugtop" thingus s'posed to mean? Dunno but it is there so I thought I would use it When the 's a rockin' don't come a knockin' ? Quote
Off_White Posted May 4, 2004 Posted May 4, 2004 Problem is, I can't get him to play the "statue game" over the internet. Another tried and true technique is "spy." You know, spies are super quiet and avoid notice, watching everything going on but not drawing attention to themselves. (Damn, thread drift, spray, I am so suck. Think, think, how to be topical?) Ahhh, I uhh, once spied some glue-in bolts, sorta snuck up on them. Quote
chirp Posted May 4, 2004 Author Posted May 4, 2004 Hey CBS! Actually the other biners were just "accessory" biners, one had a loose end of the rope to it and the other just had a couple of pieces of gear attached to it. Nothing critical. The main anchor connection point was the base of the blue sling. Quote
Jason_Martin Posted May 4, 2004 Posted May 4, 2004 To those of you who have had questions about my comments... Like I said in the previous post, I've only had experience with five piece bolts. So when they got to the part of their lecture where they were talking about problems with glue-ins I was only half listening. It may be epoxy related problems and it may be glue related problems, but there was definately a contingent of people at the clinic who felt glue-ins pose some problems due to water entrapment. Take this post for what it is. A request for those who place bolts to know what they're doing. Whether glue in or not, bolts have to be good. And those placing them have to be good at what they're doing. People who are placing bolts who don't know the strengths and weaknesses of the fixed anchors they are building should simply not be placing bolts. I don't see anything wrong with researching the quality of glue-ins vs. the quality of five piece bolts or whatever else for a given type of rock in a given area. I would like to clarify that I'm not saying that all glue-ins are bad. I'm simply saying that I have heard questions about them and as such it would be good to find out more. Jason Quote
catbirdseat Posted May 5, 2004 Posted May 5, 2004 I am just speculating, but it may be the water entrapment issue has less to do with corrosion and more to do with freeze/ thaw? Perhaps frozen water crystals are able to break the bond between epoxy and rock? Quote
snoboy Posted May 5, 2004 Posted May 5, 2004 Why are there biners clipped into biners? It's a strange setup. Use your imagination, I can think of some really good reasons for those biners to be there... but I am not telling. As to glue ins, try talking to your local Hilti Store. I think I would only use glue-ins in soft rock, or where there is a problem with anchor vandalism. I don't see any advantages to them otherwise. DMM used(?) to make the EcoAnchor, which had a cool feature for a glue in... it was realtively easy to remove for replacement if it wore through. It took a hella big drill bit though (18mm I think) which meant a lot of battery juice. Quote
mattp Posted May 5, 2004 Posted May 5, 2004 Why are there biners clipped into biners? It's a strange setup. I very often deliberately set up my belays with a biner clipped to a biner. It really helps facilitate switching things around or adjusting the situation if you clip a biner to each ancor and then clip everything else to that "master biner" with a separate biner. They may not teach that in the Rock Clinic II course, but it works for me. Quote
backcountrydog Posted May 6, 2004 Posted May 6, 2004 answer to the biner to biner question... if the rope is only running thru 1 biner clipped to the bolt, the rope runs against the rock, causing the rope to get pinched against itself when weighted, and rubbing against the rock as it slides thru the biner. the extra biner (oriented in a perpendicular position to the rock) keeps the rope out of contact w the rock when sliding thru the biner, allowing for smooth feed Quote
mattp Posted May 6, 2004 Posted May 6, 2004 I don't worry about the rope or sling lying against the rock at a belay station, dog, unless I'm going to be lowering or rapelling there. However, for a sport anchor, I agree that it is a concern and I prefer to see little lengths of chain at a sport belay than just a single screw link or something for the reason that you point out. I think Catbird was referring to something else, though -- the "standard" rule that you should NEVER clip biner to biner or link sling to sling. This is not a bad general idea, but as a rule I ignore it on just about every climb I do. Quote
backcountrydog Posted May 7, 2004 Posted May 7, 2004 ah gotcha matt, i thought it was a 'running rope' question. ya biner on biner is cool, as is sling to sling imo cheers Quote
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