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oh canada!


Dru

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"I think 5.14 gear climbs should be the norm, and I look forward to help making that happen.”

 

Might be a little while before 5.14 is my normal trad climb. He makes a good case supporting Bob about trad bein more challenging then sport though.

 

thumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gif on a sweet climb.

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What a stud. Too bad he didn't get there first. In retrospect, Watts basically robbed this guy of the first ascent by adding fixed gear, back in a generation when few people understood what was really possible. Ironically, the guys who suggested that we should (in general)save a few challenges for future climbers rather than lower the standard with fixed gear and chipping....those guys were considered "conservative" by those in the sportclimbing camp. Maybe, in the end, Bachar was a visionary. Maybe "back to future" will define the new direction.

 

OH CANADA!

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See the front page of www.gripped.com for more Sonnie Trotter news...

 

from R&I - former Seattle strong-boy repeated it a couple of weeks ago.

"Taylor Roy, of Boulder, Colorado, has nailed the third lead of the Eldo headpoint testpiece You Must be High (5.13c R). The line follows a bear-hug feature up a radically overhanging panel of orange rock near the center of the canyon's Rincon Wall, and was established nearly two years ago by Erik DeCaria. "On Taylor's first lead attempt he pumped off four feet from the anchor," said his belayer/partner, Chad Wolak, "plopping harmlessly onto solid gear." Roy rested up, then sent the line later that day."

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