ketch Posted April 28, 2004 Posted April 28, 2004 "I think 5.14 gear climbs should be the norm, and I look forward to help making that happen.” Might be a little while before 5.14 is my normal trad climb. He makes a good case supporting Bob about trad bein more challenging then sport though. on a sweet climb. Quote
snoboy Posted April 28, 2004 Posted April 28, 2004 See the front page of www.gripped.com for more Sonnie Trotter news... Quote
Dru Posted April 28, 2004 Author Posted April 28, 2004 but the 02/05/04 date of that... 2 and a half months old news! Quote
EWolfe Posted April 28, 2004 Posted April 28, 2004 Good to hear that climb finally got a clean trad ascent. I have been up there many times on aid, and it is unbelievable that he stopped and placed gear for the thin section! Kudos to Sonny!! Quote
Dru Posted April 28, 2004 Author Posted April 28, 2004 i would like to see a video of the 65 foot fall Quote
pope Posted April 28, 2004 Posted April 28, 2004 What a stud. Too bad he didn't get there first. In retrospect, Watts basically robbed this guy of the first ascent by adding fixed gear, back in a generation when few people understood what was really possible. Ironically, the guys who suggested that we should (in general)save a few challenges for future climbers rather than lower the standard with fixed gear and chipping....those guys were considered "conservative" by those in the sportclimbing camp. Maybe, in the end, Bachar was a visionary. Maybe "back to future" will define the new direction. OH CANADA! Quote
Dru Posted April 28, 2004 Author Posted April 28, 2004 hey pope - in the new issue of gripped you will seee a photo of sonnie rap bolting hold on to those accolades its not like the guy rejects sport climbing Quote
pope Posted April 28, 2004 Posted April 28, 2004 It may take time for the kid to figure it all out. Sounds like he's wrestling with the issue. You tell him to contact me and I'll show the boy how to walk like a man. Quote
EWolfe Posted April 28, 2004 Posted April 28, 2004 It may take time for the kid to figure it all out. Sounds like he's wrestling with the issue. You tell him to contact me and I'll show the boy how to walk like a man. Classic! Quote
glacier Posted April 28, 2004 Posted April 28, 2004 See the front page of www.gripped.com for more Sonnie Trotter news... from R&I - former Seattle strong-boy repeated it a couple of weeks ago. "Taylor Roy, of Boulder, Colorado, has nailed the third lead of the Eldo headpoint testpiece You Must be High (5.13c R). The line follows a bear-hug feature up a radically overhanging panel of orange rock near the center of the canyon's Rincon Wall, and was established nearly two years ago by Erik DeCaria. "On Taylor's first lead attempt he pumped off four feet from the anchor," said his belayer/partner, Chad Wolak, "plopping harmlessly onto solid gear." Roy rested up, then sent the line later that day." Quote
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